24LikesSC10 Thread Part 2
12-13-2012 | 09:12 AM
#2071
Well I do know that static weight distribution is useful from left to right to balance the car, but front to back is subjective. The left and right of the car is mirrored. same shocks, oils, springs, camber locations (assuming no oval, lol). But front to rear has many many variables. based on how you want the car to feel on and off power etc. I would use your scales to balance left to right and not worry about front to rear.
12-13-2012 | 09:13 AM
#2072
well with the b4, I added 1/4 to each of the rear triangles and it really seemed to calm the car down. I added weight to the front of my b4 to gain on power steering, so I can try to power through more of the corner. yeah, the t4 will break the wheels off power, but as soon as you touch the gas, it stops grabs and goes. I can drift mine a little and power out. Feels weird, but is fast like that. I also burn up tires fast on it, lol. the sc10 has been the hardest for me to tune. I often wonder how much of my issues are the body. I currently run the stock AE sc10 body. Most people use the HiFlow bodies. Since the body is heavy and sits up high, I assume different bodies make the truck act differently. I am also not using the +3 rims. Btw, you track is way more high bite than mine. Ours is wet to dry (outdoor, shade and wind mix it up), small pebbles in the dirt break free from racing and marble the surface a little. I run DD's front and Enduros in the rear atm. The DD's are fairly gone. maybe 25% tire left. The enduros are fairly new. 90% tread on them. And this truck still is crap in the corners.
When I goto an indoor medium bite track and run HB Beams in pink compound. the rear is just loose enough to rotate without using breaking and it drives really smooth. But on outdoor track, I think it is kinda crappy and not much fun.
When I goto an indoor medium bite track and run HB Beams in pink compound. the rear is just loose enough to rotate without using breaking and it drives really smooth. But on outdoor track, I think it is kinda crappy and not much fun.
Oh and I'm running the Method RC Hellcat body, all the way down in the rear, one hole up in the front. front fender vents cut out, single rear vent cut out and thats it. LOVE that body. sc10 4x4 offset aka cyclones as well (12mm hex)
(i've lowered the body since these pics, don't believe there is a battery in either)
12-13-2012 | 09:16 AM
#2073
Well I do know that static weight distribution is useful from left to right to balance the car, but front to back is subjective. The left and right of the car is mirrored. same shocks, oils, springs, camber locations (assuming no oval, lol). But front to rear has many many variables. based on how you want the car to feel on and off power etc. I would use your scales to balance left to right and not worry about front to rear.
12-13-2012 | 10:19 AM
#2075
Its the opposite at my house...dad plays with all the short course stuff and my son plays with all the buggy stuff lol. He hated short course and begged me for a b4.1 forever....I'm starting to follow in his footsteps! (turning sc10 into SCB and turning t4.1 into b4.1 lol)
12-14-2012 | 10:30 PM
#2080
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 456
From: Olive Branch, Ms
Motor sounds wierd
Ok have a ae sc10 ft truck, tekin rs, 2s lipo, orion 17.5 motor, when i pull the trigger the motor sounds like a mouse is in it then it goes, stutters sometimes after that mouse like sound and doesnt move, wierd any ideas?
12-15-2012 | 05:10 AM
#2081
Try swapping motor wires around....bad connection....end points on radio...bad solder joints.....just to name a few...did you calibrate your radio?
12-15-2012 | 06:59 AM
#2082