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Old 11-29-2012 | 11:47 AM
  #1921  
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Where are the axles breaking? How are you breaking them? Are you running plastic (or no) hexes?

I haven't broken an axle yet, but ya'll are getting me paranoid.
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Old 11-29-2012 | 12:21 PM
  #1922  
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Front hex converted axles break right at the pin hole. I'm using Avid aluminum hex's and +3mm Avid Sabertooth wheels. It's awesome for a lap...haha
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Old 11-29-2012 | 12:29 PM
  #1923  
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Default Poor FT Hex fitment

Anyone with fitment issues of the optional Aluminum FT Hex Adapters?

Front and rear both hexes rest on the bearing before the pin bottoms in the hex. In the rear it is not such a big deal because of the crush tube, but in the front you are loading the bearings up the tighter you put on your wheel nut.

What gives? I am used to the pin always bottoming in the hex first, then maybe needing to add a shim or two for a nice fitment. No loading on bearings either.

Oh and as someone noted earlier, the hex clamping screw could really be 1-2 mm longer for better thread engagement to avoid stripping the threads. Over all not too happy. I will run them and see how they work.
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Old 11-29-2012 | 12:52 PM
  #1924  
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Originally Posted by Wade....
Anyone with fitment issues of the optional Aluminum FT Hex Adapters?

Front and rear both hexes rest on the bearing before the pin bottoms in the hex. In the rear it is not such a big deal because of the crush tube, but in the front you are loading the bearings up the tighter you put on your wheel nut.

What gives? I am used to the pin always bottoming in the hex first, then maybe needing to add a shim or two for a nice fitment. No loading on bearings either.

Oh and as someone noted earlier, the hex clamping screw could really be 1-2 mm longer for better thread engagement to avoid stripping the threads. Over all not too happy. I will run them and see how they work.
I am also running the FT hexes the only problem i have is that I am running like 5 shims in the rear the push the hex out far enough for there to be threads when the nut comes in contact with the wheel. I think associated failed and making this part and the avids are better. From the sound of what you are saying I think that you may be doing something wrong.
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Old 11-29-2012 | 01:02 PM
  #1925  
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Originally Posted by Wade....
Anyone with fitment issues of the optional Aluminum FT Hex Adapters?

Front and rear both hexes rest on the bearing before the pin bottoms in the hex. In the rear it is not such a big deal because of the crush tube, but in the front you are loading the bearings up the tighter you put on your wheel nut.

What gives? I am used to the pin always bottoming in the hex first, then maybe needing to add a shim or two for a nice fitment. No loading on bearings either.

Oh and as someone noted earlier, the hex clamping screw could really be 1-2 mm longer for better thread engagement to avoid stripping the threads. Over all not too happy. I will run them and see how they work.

You shouldnt have to have the pin bottom out in the hex. The c clip on the front axle acts as a crush tube. I have had 0 problems with the clip as long as you dont reef down on the nuts and bend the clip. JC serrated wheel nuts help with not having to tighten down so much.

I am also one that has never had an issue with the front axles as mentioned earlier. 3 sc10's, 2 b4.1's, a whole season of racing, never an issue.....

I seen 1 break due to a guy hitting a large tripple wrong and nosing in the left front wheel, broke the axle at the pin hole.
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Old 11-29-2012 | 01:04 PM
  #1926  
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Originally Posted by J_Fitz
Front hex converted axles break right at the pin hole. I'm using Avid aluminum hex's and +3mm Avid Sabertooth wheels. It's awesome for a lap...haha
I've got around 2hrs of racing on it and haven't broken anything with the same setup. Hrm.
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Old 11-29-2012 | 01:05 PM
  #1927  
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Originally Posted by Sviglienzone4
I am also running the FT hexes the only problem i have is that I am running like 5 shims in the rear the push the hex out far enough for there to be threads when the nut comes in contact with the wheel. I think associated failed and making this part and the avids are better. From the sound of what you are saying I think that you may be doing something wrong.
You sure you have rear SC10 hexes? Sounds like you have b4 rear hexes. Sc10 rear hexes have a much deeper hex. I have never had to space one out to get the wheel tight

Last edited by ovalracer1m; 11-29-2012 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 11-29-2012 | 01:10 PM
  #1928  
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Originally Posted by ovalracer1m
You sure you have SC10 hexes? Sounds like you have b4 hexes. They have a much deeper hex. I have never had to space one out to get the wheel tight
holy shit ur right i have the rear b4 hexes i just went back to my last order to look and wow i dont know how i messed that up. the fronts are correct tho. darn oh well atleast i want to get a b4 in the future ill save em for then.
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Old 11-29-2012 | 05:24 PM
  #1929  
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Originally Posted by heavyjeffd
Where are the axles breaking? How are you breaking them? Are you running plastic (or no) hexes?

I haven't broken an axle yet, but ya'll are getting me paranoid.
I'm running all RS hex stuff on my FT SC10, and have been running the same axles for the last 2 months...racing every Tuesday night, every other saturday night, and at least 1 day of practice a week (friday nights) I've gone through 3 full sets of tires, but have yet to break a single front axle. (just destroyed a CVA last Saturday though lol)

Sounds like a bad batch of axles from AE to me.
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Old 11-29-2012 | 05:36 PM
  #1930  
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Im gonna be building a factory team SC10 over the weekend.
Anyone use the stock tires? I know the fronts are better for carpet.
But Im probably gonna glue my Caliburs to
the rear and run the subcultures up front. It's mostly gonna be ran outdoors
on a dusty track. And Caliburs are the best tire there from my knowledge.
Im kinda iffy about the subcultures that are in the box are those a clay tire?
Im probably not gonna convert to hexes because I like the pin type rears
and straight axle on the front. And yes people with the hex conversions
have been snapping from FT aluminum axles from a normal landing.
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Old 11-29-2012 | 05:56 PM
  #1931  
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i have 3 sc10sand 2 b4s with hex converted axles, no breaks here. even with my 9 year old boy driving on of the trucks and buggy.been running all summer
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Old 11-29-2012 | 06:20 PM
  #1932  
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Originally Posted by turbo2cam
I'm running all RS hex stuff on my FT SC10, and have been running the same axles for the last 2 months...racing every Tuesday night, every other saturday night, and at least 1 day of practice a week (friday nights) I've gone through 3 full sets of tires, but have yet to break a single front axle. (just destroyed a CVA last Saturday though lol)

Sounds like a bad batch of axles from AE to me.
Originally Posted by mccaul
i have 3 sc10sand 2 b4s with hex converted axles, no breaks here. even with my 9 year old boy driving on of the trucks and buggy.been running all summer
Sounds to me like over tightened wheel nuts. That will break at the pin every time.
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Old 11-29-2012 | 06:39 PM
  #1933  
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Originally Posted by heavyjeffd
Sounds to me like over tightened wheel nuts. That will break at the pin every time.
Thing that the hexes don't load the pin at all. Look at my post above. Probably just a bad batch, that is why people are breaking em.

Funny the guy running the B4.1 hexes.
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Old 11-29-2012 | 07:06 PM
  #1934  
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Originally Posted by heavyjeffd
Where are the axles breaking? How are you breaking them? Are you running plastic (or no) hexes?

I haven't broken an axle yet, but ya'll are getting me paranoid.
I've broke both front axles on mine with the hex conversion. And just like everyone else right at the pin hole. Sucks!
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Old 11-29-2012 | 08:03 PM
  #1935  
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i am picking up an associated factory team around christmas, i was wondering which motor would be better, lrp x-12, reedy sonic, or ???

i love the x-12in my biggy but not sure if it would be good in the heavier sc-10
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