for the rear I run no washers and the second from the inside on the hub and inside on the ubrace.

Thanks for the response, but I think you guys are missing the question - my problem isn't with the hinge pin - I have that taken care of. My problem is with the screw. I don't have the original screw (that hold the hinge pins in place) and I need to know the right size of the screw.
Thanks guys!

Looking at setup sheets. Cav's Super national setup question. Is that done with the standard shocks with Big Bore Springs? Sheet does not say if they are the big bore shocks or not. I am looking at getting a setup with the standard shocks....any help would be great.

im running his roar super nations setup with the exception of the shock springs and thicker oil,if they are a singe digit shock piston number then its the standard shocks,if its a 1.6 or 1.5 piston then yea big bores,cavs setups are easy to drive and very forgiving

Super Nats sc10 setup is standard shocks and big bore springs.

John what spring setup are you running if you are not running what is on the sheet? Saw the price of the kyosho springs....wow

I think you are talking about the really small Button Head Screws like these that screw into the arms and hold the hinge pins in correct?

Look at image below from the instruction manual.

He is referring to the rpm front arms which use a different screw.

for the springs im running blue/green springs with #3 piston in the front with 35wt fluid,and rear im running 32.5 with #2 piston and green springs,no 4th hole drilled in tower,oh yea i only run the ballast weight in the rear with 1/4oz in the triangles,battery all the way up front,i run that setup in stock(mind you this is my buddies truck that i borrowed and havent ran sc in a couple years)and it was dialed with sauced rebars all around,i ended up with a 2nd for the night out of 12 trucks,would have won if i didnt traction roll with 30 secs left,just didnt have the time to catch the leader,overall i had fun running sc again,once i get through the holidays I'm going to pick up the .2 when it comes out

I have the arms on my kids truck. It is a weird sized screw, thick and very short, maybe 3mm of thread. You wont finds a screw like it anywhere. I would suggest using a set screw of the right diameter.

I have 2x sc10's both with the cav nats setup. I have swapped the tires and run them back to back. they handles completely different. Still trying to figure out what it is.

I dug through my parts and found my RPM arms and the screws. They are basically sheet metal screws, you just need something to stop the pins from coming out. I hit them up with my calipers so you can see the size for yourself. The first pic is overall length the second is the dia of the the threads. Go to the hardware store and get something close whether it be metric or whatever.

i would ditch those rpm arms and run the stockers,that rpm stuff is to soft

I've been running RPM front arms for that extra durability but I'm thinking of going back to stock. I don't really crash much but it's good for peace of mind lol.

Are the stock arms fragile at all? Is there any benefit to running GT2 front arms vs SC10/T4 arms?

I'm having trouble carrying corner speed and getting middle corner steering with power. Anyone have a link to a great setup or something to check?
Short rear links
Rear shocks layed down (tried upright)
Same on fronts.
27.5 oil all the way around
Losi blacks up front
Losi Yellows rear