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Old 11-24-2012 | 02:10 PM
  #1846  
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Originally Posted by RC_nooberton
Hey guys I'm looking for a little more rear side bite especially when trying to get back on the throttle in the middle and towards the exit of the corner. I realize any suggestions you offer are guidelines only and depend on my individual set up. But generally speaking could it help to lean the rear shocks over a little? Currently they are inside hole on tower and inside on arm. Also the rear camber link is inside on the brace and on the b hole at the hub. I added 2 ball stud washers to the inside rear camber link already (previously was running with no washers) but haven't been to the track yet to test it out. I'm running the 0* hubs and have 3.0 inboard toe.

Thanks!
More rear toe, try the 1deg hubs.
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Old 11-24-2012 | 05:59 PM
  #1847  
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Originally Posted by JsK
More rear toe, try the 1deg hubs.
I'll try it thanks!
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Old 11-24-2012 | 06:08 PM
  #1848  
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How often do u guys clean ur motors? What do u use? Any tips? If u use electrical cleaner do u spray the bearings? If so what do u use to re lubricate them? Thanks
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Old 11-24-2012 | 07:29 PM
  #1849  
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Originally Posted by JsK
Inline electronics placement. Still have to track test it,but according to the
scale it carries close to the same weight front to rear and left to right as the
old setup.

That is pretty slick setup. What kind of sway bar setup are you running on that thing? I've been looking for a front sway bar mount but this is the first I've seen.
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Old 11-24-2012 | 07:31 PM
  #1850  
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Originally Posted by RC_nooberton
Hey guys I'm looking for a little more rear side bite especially when trying to get back on the throttle in the middle and towards the exit of the corner. I realize any suggestions you offer are guidelines only and depend on my individual set up. But generally speaking could it help to lean the rear shocks over a little? Currently they are inside hole on tower and inside on arm. Also the rear camber link is inside on the brace and on the b hole at the hub. I added 2 ball stud washers to the inside rear camber link already (previously was running with no washers) but haven't been to the track yet to test it out. I'm running the 0* hubs and have 3.0 inboard toe.

Thanks!
Hows your tires? Laying your shocks down (More of a angle) will give you more side bite but a less stable truck in other areas. I just saw this tid bit tonight as I was reading.
I'm new but have researched a bunch...also camber works.

I was having huge traction problems...on my trucks it was using the wrong tires and my buggie had tooo much throttle so I lowered it by half and no more spin outs
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Old 11-24-2012 | 07:43 PM
  #1851  
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Originally Posted by i am cornholio
lol..u hardly crash?? come on dave..anways..must have been a bad batch..i have had these for over a year..and if you know me..im not easy on things..never broke mine..and probably well over 200 packs thru them..
I am breaking these axles left and right. I switched to stock solid axle and I had zero issues. Of course I had to borrow tires all day. I'm fed up with the poor materials these are made from.

Any one know if a Blitz, Losi or Traxxas front spindel/axle combo will fit on the sc10's? Otherwise I will have to switch brands. I can't even finish a qualifier with this truck.
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Old 11-24-2012 | 09:24 PM
  #1852  
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Originally Posted by J_Fitz
I am breaking these axles left and right. I switched to stock solid axle and I had zero issues. Of course I had to borrow tires all day. I'm fed up with the poor materials these are made from.

Any one know if a Blitz, Losi or Traxxas front spindel/axle combo will fit on the sc10's? Otherwise I will have to switch brands. I can't even finish a qualifier with this truck.
I have seen all sorts of parts break on the SC10. Saw 2 chassis break tonight, one at the front and one at the rear. I have broke rear axles, rear drive pins, both front and rear arms, rear chassis plate, Shock bolts, front c-hubs, Steering bellcranks and inner rear ball stud. I am wondering if you got a bad batch of axles. Were all of them bought from the same place(a-main/LHS)? I have bought 4 sets of front axles and have never had a problem with any of them. I have ran both the plastic AE hexes and the clamping JC hexes. What wheels are you running? I have only run regular offset. Are you running the +3 rims? Hate to see you switch brands over this.
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Old 11-24-2012 | 09:38 PM
  #1853  
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Originally Posted by njnewc
How often do u guys clean ur motors? What do u use? Any tips? If u use electrical cleaner do u spray the bearings? If so what do u use to re lubricate them? Thanks
Brushed or brushless?
For brushed Spray the motor out with motor spray from your Hobby shop and then let it dry out and re lube the bearings with preferably bearing oil or 3 way oil will work too.
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Old 11-24-2012 | 09:39 PM
  #1854  
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Brushless
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Old 11-24-2012 | 09:46 PM
  #1855  
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Originally Posted by njnewc
Brushless
Not much..I would make sure if you were to clean the bearings with spray try not to get it in the motor and ALWAYS ,make sure to oil it again..I would probably just replace the bearings if they got bad.Others can maybe pitch in and help out with some other ideas.
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Old 11-24-2012 | 11:31 PM
  #1856  
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Originally Posted by Rawwolf
I have seen all sorts of parts break on the SC10. Saw 2 chassis break tonight, one at the front and one at the rear. I have broke rear axles, rear drive pins, both front and rear arms, rear chassis plate, Shock bolts, front c-hubs, Steering bellcranks and inner rear ball stud. I am wondering if you got a bad batch of axles. Were all of them bought from the same place(a-main/LHS)? I have bought 4 sets of front axles and have never had a problem with any of them. I have ran both the plastic AE hexes and the clamping JC hexes. What wheels are you running? I have only run regular offset. Are you running the +3 rims? Hate to see you switch brands over this.
I too have had this problem with the hex breaking. Right in half where the roll pin goes into. It's a bad design by ae. The solid axle is way better and no issues what's so ever. But hopefully they make a more durable one in the future. It's very frustrating. But the truck handles so much better with the 3mm offset. I can't go back to stock even tho its more durable. Nothing is perfect these days...
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Old 11-24-2012 | 11:35 PM
  #1857  
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Do the Avid hex conversion. You won't be sorry.
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Old 11-25-2012 | 01:22 AM
  #1858  
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Hey all, I'm new to the SC10FT. I got one last week, basically built it on Friday, raced it today and did pretty good, ending up winning out of a field of about 20 at a club race, not too shabby.

I'm running more or less the box setup with the Avid hex conversion, Triad slipper, steering rack and 12mm spring conversion (spring cups and preload collars).

So far I'm really impressed with how great it is to drive, I like it a lot more than my 4wd and basically put it up for sale, lol. Honestly, I just find it more fun to drive.

I do have too much power, but it was all I had motor-wise and really didn't want to buy one, so I'm running an RSPro and a 6.5. I just have it turned way down and honestly it feels fine, it's not difficult to drive or anything.

I need to experiment with weights (need to find some good weights to buy) and drag brake. Who's running an RSPro with drag brake and how much? it would give me a good starting point.

If any of ya'll were on the fence about the Triad slipper, it's fantastic. I love the thing, so easy to drive.
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Old 11-25-2012 | 01:48 AM
  #1859  
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Originally Posted by Pulse_
What 17mm hex conversion kit would you advice for the SC10?
up
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Old 11-25-2012 | 01:49 AM
  #1860  
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I would not recommend a 17mm hex conversion for the truck at all. It would be terrible to drive with big ol buggy tires.
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