RC10B4.1 FT/WC
12-05-2012 | 11:32 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,727
From: Wisconsin
12-05-2012 | 01:11 PM
Since you didn't ask about the AVID, i'll rate the 3 spurs you listed:
1: Kimbrough(light and high quality)
2: JC Silent Speed(Machined teeth, i like the precision. Downside being available sizes and possibly heavier)
3: AE stock spurs(rumors say Kimbrough makes em for AE, but their own are higher quality than the ones they sell AE)
I like Robinson pinions, recently started buying their black anodized aluminum pinions and love em. Less weight and to me, they seem quieter and make a better noise than the steel ones, more of a "Whirring" sound.
1: Kimbrough(light and high quality)
2: JC Silent Speed(Machined teeth, i like the precision. Downside being available sizes and possibly heavier)
3: AE stock spurs(rumors say Kimbrough makes em for AE, but their own are higher quality than the ones they sell AE)
I like Robinson pinions, recently started buying their black anodized aluminum pinions and love em. Less weight and to me, they seem quieter and make a better noise than the steel ones, more of a "Whirring" sound.
What could be wrong about my axle pins? They look fine to me.
12-05-2012 | 01:47 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
just from the race reports you see on RedRC and NeoBuggy and some of the blogs that the guys write, it appears that the track is the drainage point for that area, so all the water is pooling up on it when it rains. And of course, right on queue, it has been raining hard core.
There was some pics floating around that had the track almost completely submerged LOL.
In order to help it dry faster, they put saw dust down and I just saw interviews last night saying they added 'white dirt' aka cement (
) to some of the track.
Maifield was complaining something about the reshuffle and communication between first 2 rounds. I think he was pissed and used it to fuel him cause his next couple rounds were really good.
Oh and the worst thing about the track....... it's a EU style track..... EWWWWW hahaha.
Just from the video and pics, it really doesn't look like a bad layout to me though
There was some pics floating around that had the track almost completely submerged LOL.
In order to help it dry faster, they put saw dust down and I just saw interviews last night saying they added 'white dirt' aka cement (
) to some of the track.Maifield was complaining something about the reshuffle and communication between first 2 rounds. I think he was pissed and used it to fuel him cause his next couple rounds were really good.
Oh and the worst thing about the track....... it's a EU style track..... EWWWWW hahaha.
Just from the video and pics, it really doesn't look like a bad layout to me though
12-05-2012 | 01:59 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
LOL no, has some kinda bridge, and I swear that top section in the back left is concrete LOL.... it probably isn't but wow it looks like it
I think the EU style reference they are using is because of the way the turns are and how it's very high speed. The typical big US tracks have the big kicker jumps, big elevation changes, drops, kinda moto style.
I think the EU style reference they are using is because of the way the turns are and how it's very high speed. The typical big US tracks have the big kicker jumps, big elevation changes, drops, kinda moto style.
12-05-2012 | 02:00 PM
Before you get a million people telling you need stuff....
The kit out of the box is capable of winning the worlds.
The only two things that I think you can say are CLOSE to being required (but really aren't):
Hex conversion (makes it easier because you can borrow tires from others if needed or to try)
Aluminum steering rack ( stock steering servo saver deflects too easy and you lose steering. Either glue it or replace with aluminum)
that's it.
The big bore shocks are nice, but not needed. Eventually switch to them so that you can use current setups, but this can wait for quite a while.
The slipper (Avid or VTS) will not be noticed by a newbie
As far as spares... I would keep a set of front and rear arms, caster blocks, and bulkhead handy.
One thing you will notice with the 4.1 is that the plastics wear faster than some of the other cars. This isn't all bad. The slop in the car actually adds traction on lower bite surfaces
Once you get to a point that your driving is suffering from parts wear, then you will want to change them over. Generally speaking, you will do this a few times a season. You can avoid this by running carbon parts, but they can be more brittle in lower temps. For a newbie, I would just use the plastics.
The only other thing I can say is that it's just like onroad, if your tires aren't right, no amount of tuning will help.
Overall, the 4.1 community is pretty helpful here so keep yourself active here and you'll enjoy the experience
The kit out of the box is capable of winning the worlds.
The only two things that I think you can say are CLOSE to being required (but really aren't):
Hex conversion (makes it easier because you can borrow tires from others if needed or to try)
Aluminum steering rack ( stock steering servo saver deflects too easy and you lose steering. Either glue it or replace with aluminum)
that's it.
The big bore shocks are nice, but not needed. Eventually switch to them so that you can use current setups, but this can wait for quite a while.
The slipper (Avid or VTS) will not be noticed by a newbie
As far as spares... I would keep a set of front and rear arms, caster blocks, and bulkhead handy.
One thing you will notice with the 4.1 is that the plastics wear faster than some of the other cars. This isn't all bad. The slop in the car actually adds traction on lower bite surfaces
Once you get to a point that your driving is suffering from parts wear, then you will want to change them over. Generally speaking, you will do this a few times a season. You can avoid this by running carbon parts, but they can be more brittle in lower temps. For a newbie, I would just use the plastics.
The only other thing I can say is that it's just like onroad, if your tires aren't right, no amount of tuning will help.
Overall, the 4.1 community is pretty helpful here so keep yourself active here and you'll enjoy the experience
Its really good to see so many consistant answers from everyone
I will probably do the hex and steering rack upgrade as they sound worthwhile,
I also totally understand what you have said about the tyres, The local guys have said AKA Rebars are the go to tyre at the moment for my local track, so ill probably start there.
Thanks again
Beth.
12-05-2012 | 02:00 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
12-05-2012 | 02:05 PM
12-05-2012 | 02:10 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Thanks for your input Bob and everyone else,
Its really good to see so many consistant answers from everyone
I will probably do the hex and steering rack upgrade as they sound worthwhile,
I also totally understand what you have said about the tyres, The local guys have said AKA Rebars are the go to tyre at the moment for my local track, so ill probably start there.
Thanks again
Beth.
Its really good to see so many consistant answers from everyone
I will probably do the hex and steering rack upgrade as they sound worthwhile,
I also totally understand what you have said about the tyres, The local guys have said AKA Rebars are the go to tyre at the moment for my local track, so ill probably start there.
Thanks again
Beth.
After you do those two, I honestly wouldn't do anything else until you decide the level of commitment you are going to put into it. My suggestion is run that car into the ground with just those two upgrades. Next season, tear it down and rebuild it or just buy another kit and sell the old one or keep it for parts. Then you'll know the car and you can go hop up crazy
