My vote goes to Futaba bls351 and bls451. Fast, durable, never had one fail, ever.

The triad is not significantly lighter, and those posting it are sponsored by Avid. I tried both the VTS and Triad. One was not superior to the other, unless you compare the price.

omfg, that is a 150 dollar servo. it should be awesome and drive my car for me at that price, lol.

The Triad is significantly lighter than the stock slipper setup. Triad = 11.2g, Stock = 16.4g. The VTS also weighs a few more grams than the stock slipper. If you are running in the blinky stock class then the Triad is the way to go. Oh and unless you know something i dont....im not sponsored by AVID. I am just well aware at the amount of quality products that they produce.

I have tried both. And both are better than the stock slipper. The avid is a nice design and well built, like all of their stuff. But the vts is cheaper and used the stock gears. If I had it to do over again, I would try the vts or garodisks. Nothing wrong with the avid, but I dislike having to use special spurs.

I have the bls451 and it is by far my favorite servo I've had in my car yet.

With the rear hexes, how many of the silver axle shims are you supposed to use? Also, when tightening down the hex, what are you using or doing to leave a little side to side axle movement and not have the hex up tight against the bearing?

I posted my opinion being AVID because it was asked for the blinky class and I know that extra weight makes a difference. So I agree with what you say.

And I am also not sponsored by AVID, just a guy giving his opinion. even though that'd be pretty cool

Are there any servos to avoid because they cause any glitching or have special needs?

I have 3 bls451s that have issues and futaba seems to ignore my attempts to contact their customer support.

I just installed my hexes and my axles spin and its not binding. Idk if its required to have shims, but I would like someone else to clarify this for us.

Hey guys,

SO had a practice session at OC/RC and was the buggies first time out. Man the thing is pretty dialed right out of the box but have some questions I hope you guys can help with.

1: The slipper seems really tight, I have the locknut flush with the end of the shaft and still seemed to not want to slip, maybe it is on track but on a bench i cant make it slip, holding the rear tires its too tight still, im just worried about geear box life, is this why people run the aftermarket slippers?

2: There is a tight section of the track im getting some understeer. The good news I guess is the rear is GRIPPING great but through the tight section above aprox 10-15% throttle and it pushes forcing me to go wide. If i coast it steers good through this section but I know I can carry more speed if I fix the understeer.

Im wondering if adding another front limiter to the front shock will help?

Setup is basically worlds with the following changes:
-gold barcodes front and rear with proline blue closed cell foam
-2 limiters front and rear with #2 pistons
-30wt front with brown springs
-27.5wt rear with green springs
-front toe and camber 0*
-rear camber -1
-full length lipo all the way up front, 5400mah
-AE carbon rear hub turnbuckle mount and dropped U-brace ball stud

Thanks

I tried searching on this subject and I still have some questions that I was not certain that got answered upon my search....

At any rate, it would appear that there are 3 options out there for front axles. 1) standard axle that is secured by the c-clip and uses a lock nut, 2) axle that is secured by the pin that goes through the steering block and uses a button head screw, and the 3) the hex conversion that uses a lock nut.

My questions are...

What is the preferred method for ease and reliability?

What are the benefits of each setup?

I ask because currently I am using the type described in 1) and while running it today, the front wheel came off due to a c-clip popping off.

Is this a known problem or issue?

I have a lot of spare parts and noticed that I could most likely convert to the item I describe in 2) where the front axles are blue and seem to be a little more secure as they are held by the steering block pin at the back and the c-clip option is eliminated. But, I would have to use the button head screw.

Is this a better option?

Thanks in advance.

For all of you arguing about the VTS vs. Triad I did not hear any of you bitching about slipper issues before they came out. Yes, they are one of the new parts on the market but does it really help more than $20 bucks of practice time?

Nope!!!

depends on who you are...