Yep. Tekin rs pro. Just picked up a speed passion speed control. Will try that and then the changes.

That turns not as sharp as it looks. Start by the wall, turn early at part throttle. This scrubs speed and makes you go wide so you can round off the next sharper turn, which allows you to stay tight to the tube and get in the throttle sooner and setup the next turn. Due's setup from trackside is a good starting point but thats it, a starting point. We are super high traction, big jumps, and fast sweeping switchbacks. Trackside is med traction at best right after a track change. Small jumps, gets clay pebbles when wet and dusty when dry, very tight small layout. These two descriptions don't sound anything alike do they? You can talk to Mellow, Aaron, Kochanski etc etc etc. I have a hotwire and laptop and can take care of your issues for you. I'll be there Saturday for the IL Champs race.

Thanks. I sadly can't make it there this weekend. But hopefully the following. I went there and practiced last weekend. I never had to tippy toe around with the car so much..

I will be there this weekend, rocking the Due setup in its entirety.

Thats due to (no pun intended) the super high traction. The car is reacting too quickly to surface imperfections, then it digs in and rolls too much too fast, which makes the car hard to hang onto. Heavier springs limit the chassis roll, and heavier oil slows the suspension reaction and keeps the oil wt balanced with the spring rates so the car stills feels normal. We're actually making chassis adjustments that would normally remove traction from the vehicle because there's so much traction in the track surface. I was running white fronts with 32.5 and grey rears with 30, but went back to black fronts when the track got cold and dried a little so I got my steering back. Moved hubs back because I dont need to worry about weight transfer since I'm pulling wheelies, then I can tighten the slipper and drive it the same with the trigger but it just accelerates harder. Traction is relative to ones experiences, and people have a bad habit of mislabeling descriptions because they dont know any better. One mans high traction is anothers low traction.

Sticking to your guns and doing it with a smile

Hey guys I notice my stock worlds springs rub the shock body frequently, to run the ae bb springs on v2 shocks what do you guys do with the top collar? I'm eventually planning an upgrade to bb but the spring issue bugs me. I googled this and some avid collars came up bit wasn't clear if it was for v2 shocks. Or would losi springs be easier to swap too?

Thanks

The avid collars are for the v2 shocks, or you can run Traxxus uppers as well, either one of these will prevent the rubbing. Get the new AE BB springs to go on them and you will be very happy.

Forgot to mention once I adjust the brake strenth in the esc, I then use the radio to fine tune the brakes.

Thanks

Hey guys im thinking of getting a gear diff for my B4.1 what diff oil should i use, i run on a medium to high grip indoor clay track, i had a go with my mates B4.1 with a gear diff in it and felt i could put the the power down alot easier, he has an 8.5 in his

Im not sure I would consider that, a ball diff is much more precise. Im wondering if your diff is too loose and/or you need a diff rebuild. If its too loose the diff is going to open up and give power only to one side, the side with the least amount of traction.

I run 2000 wt in mine. High bite clay.

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/4449/

Will those locknuts fit in these hex steering hubs for securing the ball stud?

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/9880/

Yes those are the correct lock nuts