you know. someone mentioned that they thought the pin was not needed. I agree. I wonder if you could fill the hole with JB weld, then sand it smooth and just use clamping hexes attached to the axle.

you could just take the pin out and try that...

yeah, but there would be no added strength.

Ya but it always looks like it breaks from the pressure of the drivepin

hmm, you might be right. my other cars use a slightly smaller pin. And never break. I wonder if the roll pin from the RS kit is too big. maybe that is why my smaller pinned axles have not broke.

The shim you run is the one that the brace comes with?

or the ballstud washer? Ballstud Washer

Can someone give me a good starting point on some gearing. Both tekin Motors one is a 17.5 that will be run in blinky and a 10.5 with no boost or much timing added. Going to a track with very long straightaways. Thanks in advance.

78/30 for 17.5 and 84/24 with that 10.5

Are the turnbuckles the same for t4 and sc10?

yes they are

Yes.More than 50% of the parts are interchangeable.

I was told stay between fdr 7.2-7.8 on blinky

lol..u hardly crash?? come on dave..anways..must have been a bad batch..i have had these for over a year..and if you know me..im not easy on things..never broke mine..and probably well over 200 packs thru them..

One ballstud washer. .030.

Don't know if this has been said or asked but I am having a hell of a time keeping a diff bolt in my truck. Is there any other diff bolt i can use or something different i can do to keep this from happening. Ive been racing and biulding diffs for more than 20 years and have never had this happen with any of my cars. Im at a loss and would like to finish a race weekend with out rebiulding a diff