+1.... I have found I usually need to push down on the bead of the tires (the part glued to the rim) to break the seal that formed with the CA glue. I've never had a failure doing it that way.
Best of luck.

Guys, I could really use some suggestions with my truck. I only run this truck for Blinky. I'm having a real problem with my back end stepping out on me. Out of turns, I pretty much can't touch the throttle until the truck is completely straight. I pretty much can't give it throttle anywhere unless the truck is completely straight. If I do, the back end just comes around me. Once straight, I can gun it.

I drive on a high grip wet clay indoor track. On Saturday, I switched the rear tires to some Pro-Line suburbs in M3 (Soft) compound that I turned into slicks and the truck was working for me, although still not how I'd like. On Wed, they started drying the track out for a reconfig next week and the same tires were horrible. I tried slicks that I made from suburbs in MC (Clay) compound and they were even worse. I tried Bar Codes in Gold and that was as bad as the clay suburbs slicks. Other racers were running these same tires with success so I feel I have a setup issue. Here is my setup:

http://s1058.beta.photobucket.com/us...y/SC10%20Setup

I feel like I'm driving this thing on ice. My fastest lap last night was 27.5. That was slowest of anyone in all 3 mains. I was embarrased more than anything. I have V2 shocks coming with the Avid BB conversion. I'm currently running the stock RTR RS ones (blue ones) and I believe piston 2 is in front and rear. I have the Racer's Edge rear hub carriers to install and the ball diff. I'm just wondering what people think I can change to help plant the rear end.

Thanks in advance guys. Really appreciate it.

@snaf grey rear springs seems way off. Green rear is the normal config on all surfaces. You didnt list your limiter or shock piston info. I use Ryan Cav's shock setup from nats. Not his springs though. This last weekend I ran losi BB green fronts and losi BB yellow rear springs. I used the same camber link positions as you but I went 3 ball stud shims in the front and 1 in the rear. I was actually having issues getting my rear to break loose. I was running HB Beams in pink compound front and rear on an indoor dry clay track. medium bite.

I had Greens on the rear to start with on Saturday. They weren't working so I went with what a fellow racer had which was the grays. Those also didn't work. But switching to the ProLine M3 slicks did it on Saturday when the track was dry. I have the #2 pistons in both front and rear, just checked. And I have 2 limiters in each. Now that it's drying out, I'm lost. I'm hoping the track will be back to wet after the config change.

I ran 3 limiters front and 2 rear. I had so much traction that I was traction rolling. So I dunno. if it feels like your driving on ice. the tires have to be wrong. no amount of tuning till turn ice to planted. that is tires.

This sounds like Leisure Hours from your description of whats going on, and your location. If it is, then you gotta go out on the arms, 4th hole rear tower, middle hole front tower, , and use about a 2.0 rate rear and around 3.8 front, remove 1 shim on the front inner ballstud, #3 pistons in the front, and add 2 more limiters to each shock. Get Panther Rattlers in a CLAY compound, and if you have some old Switches they make the best slicks money can buy. We only use the Proline and JCon stuff when traction is tooooo high and we need LESS traction from the tires, thats why when it "dried out" you were worse. Honestly this track was still super duper high bite after it dried out, we were leaving footprints in the clay earlier in the day. I ran in the 20's with a best of 20.5 on that layout with my SC. Basically your combo is fighting itself, too much steering in the front, nowhere near enough traction in the back, and way wrong tires. I'll be there saturday if youre out and need help, they call me Madsen. Don't be embarrassed, we all start at the bottom.

Hey Man,

Set your Camber too 0 In the rear and triple make sure that both rear wheels are at 0. And that your front is at -1. Second I would try running the Sway Bar. I would start with the Silver Bar. For your ride height in the back I would just check to see if your dog bones are level if there not then make them level.

Get the version 2 Slipper I don't know if you have this but being able to run your slipper loose will give you a more consistent feel. Try running some weight in the rear and placing your battery in the back with the foam in front. I would start with 1.5oz in behind the battery and and a quarter ounce on each of the triangles in the back.

Hope this helps!

It is leisure madsen. If I can make it Saturday ill seek you out. Thanks for the advice. If not ill be there next wed. Time to spend some more on tires!

Any weight in the truck?

I woul move front shocks out go to gold springs and make sure you have 3oz in rear also your unknown diff could be fighting you.

Hold off on the tires for now. Lets just make the truck work first. I've got plenty of extra tires for you to try, and I'll get you a good working knowledge in suspension tuning. Once it's close you won't have to change hardy anything until summer.

That would be awesome madsen.

I'm trying the acetone fume method for the 1st time tonight. Just a bowl of acetone placed inside of a rubbermaid container and covered with a lid - tires placed around the bowl. Should be interesting.

Ya id like to hear how that works out. I just took the wheels out and they look almost brand new (except the part where the guy before me put little holes on the rim) but oh well too poor to buy new wheels atm. now its on to glueing tonight. what a joy.

Will the Rubbermaid stuff withstand acetone? I know acetone reacts to many types of plastics, take a drop of that stuff and rub it on the underside of the lid to see if the lid starts to liquify...

Glad everyone's having luck with the acetone. 2 things?:
1. If you don't need the tires, slicing as much of them off as possible really speeds up the process. Maybe because more fumes can get at more areas of the glue?
2. Don't try clear acryllic jars-the acetone destroyed the jar, turned it into a clear gooey mess--looked like a jellyfish died on the floor in my garage--and then the fumes ate a whole bunch of stickers off of my tool chest that was close to it!