Sorry - asssuming you mean the most recent one, shown as for carpet from IIC Vegas? Printed that one, but there is another Haynes dated back in May I think that says test session...appreciate the help. Need to gather up goodies for the setup before starting the build.

Before you put in the oil, was it easy to push the piston in and out? First make sure there is no binding. To get zero rebound you need to drill a hole in the plastic cap (31329). On the factory team 6.1 there should be a little tiny dot on the inside part of that shock cap to indicate where to drill and drill though it with a 1 mm drill bit. This will allow the bladder to flex without the interference of air pressure behind it. Lastly, when you fill up the oil, you want to push up on the piston. Take your time. You may not want to push up the piston all the way because sometimes air gets in. If it does, just fill a little more and wait for bubbles to go away before putting on the bladder. Also, put on the bladder by rolling it on like how you would roll your finger for a fingerprint. This will push away the oil without replacing it with air while fitting on the shock.

I read that the kit came with silver for the front and green for the back but that the green is too soft for carpet use. The 6.1 FT kit now comes with silver all around which is the recomended rate and it was also revised in the manual. I dont recomend the spring set as the difference in rate are too great between all of them. Personally I wouldnt go stiffer than blue in the front and that's the next one above silver. If you want to limit the car's roll in the corners focus on roll centers and droop instead of buying stuff that you wont use.

I just got a 6.1 and want to run a front gear diff. All the setups online say "silicone ear plugs". What are they talking about? I'll be running asphalt parking lots with a 10.5.

this is what I'm running in mine,

http://www.amazon.com/Prismacolor-Kn...ble+Art+Eraser

alot of people will refer to diff putty as well, it's the same stuff.

I guess that people are using the silicone ear plugs now to get the same effect.

They mean that they additionally put ear plugs into the diff so that it becomes more like a soft spool. In your case on a dusty parking lot with this motor I would try without ear plugs. Try different diff oils to find the right one for cornering and acceleration out of a corner.

I was thinking of 40wt shock oil in the rear and maybe 50 in the front? Or do I need to go heavier in the front?

That simply isn't the same...
The idea is to have a diff that is nearly locked like the spool but that is much more forgiving mechanically and also easier to drive. Putty or ear plugs or all of those are comparable to some 50000 wt shock oil if they ever needed that! They do sell actual silicone (liquid) diff oil you could use that has 125000 cst in weight. It is easier to fill up the diff with it because it's still liquid but it's still a bit too loose for most racers. Putty is an extra step stiffer than that.
I've tried 50 wt oil in the front and the car drives nice but it's a bit slower that's all.

Thanks! I figured it was. Here's what I'm going to order. Is this all that I need or am I going to need something else to make it work? It says it's a dual cardan joint bone but that it's two pieces. Is it two pieces per side or is it two pieces total? How many do I need to order?

http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-TC6-...s-_p_1412.html

very nice.. gotta get one.

You need these, what you posted is just the bone. You will also need pins and hexes. 5mm is standard

Thanks for the quick info! That makes a lot more sense. My kit came with pins and hexes. Do I need different ones for some reason? My kit is the world's car, BTW.

Thanks mate. Everything you have said is exactly what I had previously done. From drilling the caps to rolling on the bladders to slowly pushing up the pistons. I might try sanding one of the bushing next to the o-ring to try and take some pressure off the shaft. Thanks again for your reply. Much appreciated.

Have you tried coating the O Ring with AE Green Slime? I found this preserves the O Ring and really reduces stiction.

Otherwise you are doing something wrong because these are the best shocks AE ever made and about on par with Tamiya TRF shocks (essentially the same build).

I had a little issue with my shocks not being completely smooth i shaved my spacer down about half mm green slime to o ring and butter smooth