More than likely now

The following was taken from an article in RC Driver mag.

see the whole article here. http://www.rcdriver.com/rcd/index.ph...attery-safety/


LING: Technically, it means the relative charge and discharge capability. For simplicity, take the capacity in amp hours and multiply it by the C rating. So for a 5 amp hour battery, 1C = 5 amps, 2C = 10 amps etc. The discharge C rating is the maximum continuous discharge rating that a cell can handle. There are no industry standards which define when a cell fails a C rating, whether it’s the number of cycles, ending temperature, capacity, etc.

In the RC world, the C rating means next to nothing. I can pretty much guarantee you that just about every RC LiPo would self destruct when discharged at the C rating on the label unless it’s a short burst. For a 5000mAh battery, a 40C discharge is 200 amps. A complete discharge at 40C would last exactly 1.5 minutes There is absolutely no RC application that dumps the battery in just 1.5 minutes. A genuine Deans connector starts melting at 80 amps continuous – a fake Dean fails at even less.

TONY: Well, I always figured some of those numbers were a bit exaggerated. I’m assuming sticking to a quality, brand name battery is probably the best way to get an accurate C-rated pack. Other than that, is there any way to determine a quality pack vs. a cheap pack besides price?

I would'nt look for a B4.2. An industry person I know very well has seen the pics of the B5. Not saying its next out but it is for real. He said it looks just like the all the other aluminum chassis buggies that are out now but thats all he could tell me.

Hey guys, I'm on a quest for knowledge and I've spent an hour searching things that affect the rear roll center. A popular mod is to shave the U-brace and use the "C" hubs. Sometimes these are done independently, but I've read a lot of people do both, and this confuses me.

The "C" hubs lower the roll center

The Shaved U-brace raises the roll center

So unless I'm missing something these mods cancel out and the entire link moves down making it less effective at controlling the suspension. (smaller moment arm)

Why not use the "A" hubs and just add washers to the U-brace to lower the roll center?

I'm sure I'm oversimplifying here. I can appreciate the added adjustability, but is there anything that I'm missing?
Thanks
Tom

Did you search earlier in this thread? It was discussed for a good few pages..

We will see the high profile drivers racing a new buggy well before one is released. As of last weekend Maifield was running what looked to me as a normal B4.1. No new buggy release is in the short term.

I wouldn't expect anything like a b5 right now. Both Ryans like the current platform too much for it to change. Updates like bigbores are great, but a whole new chassis doesn't seem likely.

Why do the AE setup sheets lack so many settings? For example there is no check for the rear tower for A or B (cav's setup says C, but don't see that available) Rear toe is missing (the block), front spindle position (fwd/rear), etc

When they say "shaved the u brace flat" is that the section where the ballstud mounts shaved to be level with the rest?

Yes.

toe is 3-2 unless otherwise stated. people almost never move the steering blocks. And for the hubs, I dunno. The procs run C unless otherwise stated

People run 2.5 or 3.0 rear toe, C tower is the carbon fiber one which is done with the shaved brace and usually 1 washer. The front spindle position is forward, but if you convert to front hex the position is not adjustable...So yup.

How do you get 2 degree of rear toe? Who have you ever seen that was fast run 2 degree rear toe?

Ok thanks.

i think he was referring to 3* toe and 2* antisquat

That is what he was referring too.