KCChief-It was making something that everyone has- electrical tape under the battery.It works and cheap fix. Look back afew pages you'll find it. I did it to mine-3 strips of tape and it worked fine.

when i tried the yokomo springs i did cut rings of lexan and glued to the springcups to make them fit better

didnt like the feeling in them so didnt bother to find a better solution. for me they were too progressive. i do love the rsd springs!

Just finished the build, all went well. Had 2 small issues. Missing 2 screws, but found them in another pack and installed wrong washers on diff. Manual wasn't clear on which size went where. Be sure and put small diff washer on the diff outdrives and larger under the sun gear.

I have raced 4wd sct and 1/8 e buggy for a few years. All diffs are gear diffs.
My question is about the front spool/diff. Why does the front diff not allow the tires to work independently? The front drives are locked together. Is it not needed or are you guys upgrading to the front slipper or gear diff. Any info on this matter would be helpful to understand.

This is what you are looking for:
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...erLiPoBattery/

Its easy and seems to work great. I use tape to hold my battery in, but I dont see why it wouldnt work with velcro or the RSD system.

Funny, I had the exact same problems. Which screws were missing?

I had read a build guide online that said to make sure the bigger shim went on the outside of the gear diff. Everything went great until I tried to put the bearings on ugh. Ended up having to take it apart and rebuild it the correct way.

I went with a front gear diff after some research. I guess it's largely a feel thing but a lot of the pros use a gear diff front and rear. Also most people will say to use a super heavy oil/putty in the front so that it almost acts like a spool, but again if you look at some race winning setups from the pros they use what most people would say is "light" oil in their diffs.

Looking at pros setups has been very educational.

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Does anyone else have any suggestions on this?

Make sure you take up the side to side slack on the battery by using some servo tape and/or Lexan on the battery stop at the center of the chassis to space the battery out slightly. Using our Belt tensioner/ battery spacer can help as well.

When setting up the tabs, leave 0.3-0.5mm of space in between the battery and the tabs. Since all battery brands are slightly different, you will need to use slightly different spacing to get this done right. Adjust it by shimming the posts up and down.

Use Spec-R1 Shock Rod ends and Spring cups. Tamiya will work as well, but are more expensive.

An AE gear diff will fit front or rear, just have to make sure the bearing cams are put on the right sides, should be "flipped" compared to the rear.

There's also a Spec-R gear diff that will fit front or rear but my understanding is that the AE diff is actually smoother and more forgiving to build.

My screw troubles came when installing the rear bearing caps, I was supposed to use 4 M3x6mm button heads but I only had two, so I ended up using two M3x8mm button heads that seemed to be left over.

the ae diff is better, just build it after the manual and it should be fine

copy mike haynes set up in my tc6.1, his belt tensioner/holder in the rear gear diff was in position 6 and i did notice a little loose in the rear belt, is it normal??thanks for the help...

As long as there is no slip he might have used it to finetune the carbehaviour on acceleration. Otherwise just make it a little tighter.

I use HD Velcro for my battery straps. Had some pretty good hits and it did not move. Maybe later I'll try the other battery holder.

Thanks