You can start with those batteries. The main thing you will need to see though is will you have the runtime you need depending on the time requirements for your heats and mains at your track.

If its 10 minutes, could be an issue.

If shorter or you plan is not to race, probably not an issue.

to be honest i dont know. I usely drive fuel buggy 1/8,and never race.

When it comes to this car i just bought it for the winther. We have a medium clay indor track just 35 minutes from my house.
I dont know if i wil race,but if i do i`ll just by something else or brake up early.

The main thing is to have fun on track


here is a video. They did rebuild the track after this and they did take away the big jump and made a double+double and before the straight they did build a wall of death.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VhP7...4&feature=plcp

xray

4w Sc is a interesting class , you will find all levels of racers enjoying together.

Really fun because anyone can fit in .

Hope you enjoy racing indoors .
Competition is the hook on the end of line for r/c .


BTW

Your battery's will do just fine, don't worry bout 10min , most only use 6 min or 8 min heats ...

Cool track there, we had a set of steps almost the same in Portland a few year ago . Way good time ..

electric indor track in norway is wery welcome becouse the winther here is long,and dark from ca pm3 to am8 depending on place and time a year.
And cold an snow and rain.
And the summer is wery unstable with to mutch rain,so yah i wil enjoy.

I did barrow a sc10 4x4 of the owner of the track with a fully charged battery and can not wait to get my own stuff.To bad he did sell the last car just before i go there.
I need to wait for more than a week,so i wil be crazy,cant wait

Well today was my first time working on/adjusting my ft sc10 4x4. I must say it is a big pain in the A$$ compared to the 2wd version. How tight are u guys keeping the belt. When I release the throttle the truck rolls to a stop almost immediately. There is no drag brake set and the gear mesh is good. I am used to a 2wd so this might be normal. Thanks

njnewc

Start with the recommended tension settings
rear = 4
ft = 3


set your ESC for zero coast brake

Normal to experience a little extra drag coming from a additional set of wheels & drive belt .

Did anyone make a full aluminium chassis, not in 3 pieces like the exotek? I would need some inspiritation if i make one :/

in the factory box that i did order now .
Are the shims for the diff correct?
Can see a lot of people change the 0.2 to 0.5 or juse two x0,2 shims

Just wondering if i need to order extra shims for the diff?

And is it correect that it is the inside diff shims that need to be changed?
And if i do,do i need to take away the outside shims?

sorry for the quastion,just dont want to ripp my gears.

Sadly, there is no one good shimming for all diffs. Every gear is different. Some people use 0.2 on their new diffs others use 0.4. I'd go with at least 0.3mm and i would recommend you to buy 0.1 and 0.2 shims, as you need to reshim the diff if it has wear and the shims can break if your bones hit the outdrives. 0.2 didn't work for me and it's better to have it a bit tighter than too less shims.

What you guys think about the new ProLite truck?

Very nice. Would love something like that here! The SC10 4x4 should shine in those conditions.

confirm what your racetimes are first before worrying or not worrying ... Just because most have 6 min or 8 min heats / mains doesn't mean anything if your track has 10 min mains. Simple call / talk with the track owner is all that is really needed.

I haven't heard anything, but you could be the first and give the inspiration Could even setup your to accept bolt on weights that you create as well.

One thing I wondered for a bit was something I remember we did on the old losi XXX-S. There was a guy who made a belt tunnel part in alloy to replace the stock plastic one and it appeared to be a nice feature to add weight as low as possible. Maybe something like that for your vehicle like how durango has that "plug" that can be replaced by an alloy part?

Really depends on what you want to do to be honest. two .2mm shims after rebuilding this pretty much one run SC10 4x4 FT I have probably would have been sufficient. But you can always just do the 0.5mm setup, run it in and it will loosen up.

Heck, in a way I wish I kept my old SC10 4x4 drivetrain parts instead since they were pretty smooth now versus having to essentially break this new FT ones in.

Looks like a nice AE version of the Thunder Tiger SparrowHawk. Only concern I have is the whole width potential issue and tracks that require ROAR rules. I know people will say well its a sport truck so it shouldn't matter, but I then think of both the uproar of vehicles that don't fit the "box" as well as the Losi Strike and its too big issues.

It has a shorter wheelbase too...
: /

Cain

what ? Me worry ....
Is there even a track anywhere that races 10min with SC ?


X-ray , can call Ae & they will send you the new .5mm shim.

or

Use two .2mm shim under the sun gear.
Remember , remove the smaller .2mm shim's used on the out drives if you do use two .2 shims

[QUOTE=keddy;11368071]The only reason I don't get first place every time over the losi's is because I have the worst habit of shitting the bed as soon as I hear my name in the lead.

Cover your nose, Keddy in first place again!!!

hmm, maybe you have a pic for me?

I thought about making a nearly flat chassis-plate and mount the upper chassis-parts with threaded m3 aluminium tubes. Maybe you know the "stock" xD TeamC car from Rene sagawe: http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto...48811969_n.jpg (maybe you can't see the pic because its a facebook-link)