RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
I totally disagree with the last post. It's your car do what you want, but the diff rings are not flat. Not even close.
http://www.bfastrc.com/seethediff.html
http://www.bfastrc.com/seethediff.html
I have come to believe a stock diff can be just as smooth and last just as long as any after market kit. It all depends on how well it was built, and taking the time breaking it in properly. I learned that lesson after rebuilding my 22 diff about 22 times.
Actually it does mater if you are anal about performance....
The rough edge left at the top of the groove will diminish and then your diff will begin to bark. Mainly due that the ring is not covering enough surface of the ball. The rough scuff marks are hell on a ball under force. It scars them as the diff wares.
Not trying to change the world or cure world hunger just pointing out some not so obvious things about the difference of sanding vs. not. Both options have a place as far as performance.
I believe non sanded are the best in performance.
The rough edge left at the top of the groove will diminish and then your diff will begin to bark. Mainly due that the ring is not covering enough surface of the ball. The rough scuff marks are hell on a ball under force. It scars them as the diff wares.
Not trying to change the world or cure world hunger just pointing out some not so obvious things about the difference of sanding vs. not. Both options have a place as far as performance.
I believe non sanded are the best in performance.
I thought the reason for sanding diff rings was to not only insure they are flat, but to promote the diff balls rolling on the rings as opposed to them sliding across the rings which we all know will cause flat spots on the balls.
I have come to believe a stock diff can be just as smooth and last just as long as any after market kit. It all depends on how well it was built, and taking the time breaking it in properly. I learned that lesson after rebuilding my 22 diff about 22 times.
I have come to believe a stock diff can be just as smooth and last just as long as any after market kit. It all depends on how well it was built, and taking the time breaking it in properly. I learned that lesson after rebuilding my 22 diff about 22 times.
If you polish them to the point of being a glass or mirror finish you will get slippage. But it can be done if you break it in right. But you sacrifice making the surface less flat and making it thinner. Polishing is good lightly to make the ring debris free after sanding them. Cleaning is good enough but there will be more pours with a fine metal dust. I have had sanded diffs with thick gunky black grease after running them from not cleaning them good enough before building them. I have always used 800 grit, could be that reason? Most fellas use 600 to my knowledge.
The diff balls need to grip the diff ring to work efficiently.if the diff rings are not sanded, the diff will slip and therefore be less efficient. Roughen the diff rings with sandpaper to create more grip for the diff balls. What you were saying about the area on the ring keeping contact with balls is false. If the ring is at all polished, the balls will slip, which will make you tighten the diff more. And when the Balls have something to grip earlier, you will have a looser diff with the same results. There has been much research about this, and sanded diff rings result in the best outcome.
In the end to each his own but I am sticking with the non sanded stock ring method. I have had the best success this way.
I think its better and many disagree. Believe me we go threw this at the track often... Grrr!
But I don't think false is quite right, but I am not the wizard by far.
I have the K-rings but haven't installed them yet. I was told by a team driver that they swell more than the stock rings, even with slime, so I haven't tried them yet. The middle spacer would have to be shaved a little bit to compensate, but I didn't want to risk leaking when they weren't swollen.
Me. I love my ae springs, much better than the losi springs. They very well rival the kyosho springs. I run the 3.15 Green front, 2.1 White rear. Will try the 2.2 Gray rear as soon as I can get them. I run on a very smooth tight track, wet slightly grooved.
Front:
1.6
32.5wt
Green 3.15
Rear:
1.6
30wt
White 2.10
Front:
1.6
32.5wt
Green 3.15
Rear:
1.6
30wt
White 2.10
Last edited by Sean Dickinson; 10-17-2012 at 10:56 PM.
look for um under that blue flashing lite......

Diff's ...
Ae polishes for a reason I believe....
Start out with a smoother surface ?
You end up with a smoother diff .....

Think?
Sanding by hand is a guess at best
only makes for a thinner ring and more so on some the edges then the rest of ring .
After your awesome efforts you only end up with a scratch up surfaced for the balls to press their groove into the rings....



