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Old 10-07-2012 | 03:10 PM
  #21721  
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Originally Posted by CHIZZLE
According to the Hudy Off Road Book, using the lower holes on the shock tower gives you a higher roll center and vice versa.....
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...itOz-YSkLml4iw
This is only true providing that the outer upper link point is not moved at the same time.
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Old 10-07-2012 | 03:13 PM
  #21722  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
Well need oppinon.

Should I get BB from rear only/front only, or get Traid Slipper?
Get both front and rear shocks at the same time.
Just keep saving for them
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Old 10-07-2012 | 03:19 PM
  #21723  
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Originally Posted by Eli
OptimumRC and I are at an agreement on that lol.
Right. I had to re-read what you guys were saying. Oh well, I'm still confused, lol. I'm trying to grasp the diagram.
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Old 10-07-2012 | 03:49 PM
  #21724  
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Sorry for the silly question (I did look around but couldn't find an answer), but where/how do you attach weights on the triangles?
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Old 10-07-2012 | 03:58 PM
  #21725  
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Originally Posted by NicolasCH
Sorry for the silly question (I did look around but couldn't find an answer), but where/how do you attach weights on the triangles?
You could use double sided tape but for me I used tire glue since I never remove them
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Old 10-07-2012 | 04:01 PM
  #21726  
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Originally Posted by slimgravy
He has ½°rear camber listed and could not be worse lol. Car was so loose it wasn't drivable at all. Went to 1° or a lil more and I can slam it hard into a corner and its stuck.
yeah I have about 1-1/2 my self and it feel a bit more planted through the corner.......

But sometimes its a little loose when the boost comes on, on the straightaway!
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Old 10-07-2012 | 04:41 PM
  #21727  
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Well it would take me awhile to get it online. I have like $37 to spend. Any ideas what to get? {Aside from track time}
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Old 10-07-2012 | 04:43 PM
  #21728  
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Originally Posted by slimgravy
He has ½°rear camber listed and could not be worse lol. Car was so loose it wasn't drivable at all. Went to 1° or a lil more and I can slam it hard into a corner and its stuck.
Holy smokes, a slimgravy sighting.

You back to racing or just playing a bit?

How bout paint slingin?

Dayton
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Old 10-07-2012 | 04:50 PM
  #21729  
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I have been racing 17.5 SCT and Nitro Buggy for two years with good results but decided to give 2wd buggy a shot. I bought a B4.1 FTW from a pro who ran it once at Nats it had all the good Avid gear 12mm collars/Triad/alum. steering also has Losi BB spring sets. Anyway can someone help me out with a decent starting setup with 10mm v2 shocks and Losi 12mm bb springs? I went out today for some laps but rear grip was not there really I am running m3 Calibers on outdoor with a little dust had yellow rear springs and red front springs not sure about shock weight. I have got my 2wd SCT dialed and ran better laps with it so I know it's in need of a setup change/rebuild. Looking for any suggestions I have searched but get so many unrelated answers. Also foams I trimmed mine down to round edges but have a few soft spots in tire. One more thing the diff feels a little bumpy when I rotate wheels opposite how smooth should it feel? Thanks!
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Old 10-07-2012 | 05:03 PM
  #21730  
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Originally Posted by savannahmick
I have been racing 17.5 SCT and Nitro Buggy for two years with good results but decided to give 2wd buggy a shot. I bought a B4.1 FTW from a pro who ran it once at Nats it had all the good Avid gear 12mm collars/Triad/alum. steering also has Losi BB spring sets. Anyway can someone help me out with a decent starting setup with 10mm v2 shocks and Losi 12mm bb springs? I went out today for some laps but rear grip was not there really I am running m3 Calibers on outdoor with a little dust had yellow rear springs and red front springs not sure about shock weight. I have got my 2wd SCT dialed and ran better laps with it so I know it's in need of a setup change/rebuild. Looking for any suggestions I have searched but get so many unrelated answers. Also foams I trimmed mine down to round edges but have a few soft spots in tire. One more thing the diff feels a little bumpy when I rotate wheels opposite how smooth should it feel? Thanks!
I would get rid of the calibers and rebuild the diff. The diff should feel smooth with out a gritty feel. Should feel absolutely smooth. 2wd buggies are VERY diff sensitive. I have never felt calibers on any track has been the "fast" tire to run. If the surface is loose/dusty, maybe double dees, ifmar pins, maybe 3ds. look at what the fast guys are running in 2wd as well. I would bet 95% of the problem you are having is tires and the diff.

Last edited by ovalracer1m; 10-07-2012 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 10-07-2012 | 05:25 PM
  #21731  
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Someone please give me honest advice.

A b4.1 WC edition with big bores will be better/same/equal than a TLR 22?

Have you any of you first hand driving both. I had a b4.1 but regretfully sold it. Now I want one again LOL.
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Old 10-07-2012 | 05:31 PM
  #21732  
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Originally Posted by fullsyzz
Amain!
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Someone please give me honest advice.

A b4.1 WC edition with big bores will be better/same/equal than a TLR 22?

Have you any of you first hand driving both. I had a b4.1 but regretfully sold it. Now I want one again LOL.
It has won nearly every race for the last several years, including the worlds. Where is the debate? They are both clearly very fast and capable cars.
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Old 10-07-2012 | 05:42 PM
  #21733  
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Ok good point, but I think driver plays a big part in winning races as well.
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Old 10-07-2012 | 05:50 PM
  #21734  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Ok good point, but I think driver plays a big part in winning races as well.
Well considering in my area of socal even at the club level the b4.1 is very dominant , its still one of the best buggy's and even better now with the big bores..........
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Old 10-07-2012 | 06:05 PM
  #21735  
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what's up ilian! I'm running a SCTE now, got ride of the sc10 4x4 this wknd.
I have located a deal from a local racer, trying to see if it is still available.

id def put on the big bores, avid stuff, etc.
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