I would love your guys feedback on this topic. A little more guidance would be really helpful. I posted the same thing in the Durango thread.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ent-811-a.html

I would really appreciate it. Thank You

I own both and really like both equally well. I really want to sell the dex408 as I have 2 811(e)'s and the nitro buggy and truggy but damn the thing just drives and jumps so well. The dex408 drives awesome and jumps very well and you would not go wrong with it, not to mention parts are a lot cheaper than the Serpent.

With that being said the 811(E) quality wise is top notch and the shocks are great. Serpent is always on top of their cars with constant upgrades and the buggy drives and jumps really well. It is harder to work than the Dex408 put I really like the layout. There are a ton of tuning options for the 811(E) a lot more than for the dex408.

If you can get someone to let you drive one I highly recommend it because that might be the only way you will be able to decide.

I will say that I love my nitro 811 and don't care for the nitro DNX408.

I hope this helps.

anyone stuffed the new Novak ESC in the Serpent yet? just curios how tight the fit is?

warped front a-arm on a friends Serpent Ebuggy.. Car is only a couple months old.. Anyone seen this?

Yes. Better than a DNF because of a shattered/broken arm like the Mugen's, Losi's like to do.. Right?

I always inspect my arms every few races. Take new arms and boil them in water for about 10-20 minutes. It re-softens the composite and ultimately re-tempers the molding-itself.

Equals = more durability out of the arms, plus a little more 'spring' when they endure a bump or a hit, so they don't warp as easily, and are still less prone to breaking.

It's common if you race in super hot weather and since you are from TX you're a prime candidate. Something that helps is keeping your car on a stand when not in use. They can be warped a little and you won't notice any difference but yours are pretty bad. I'd change them.

I dont know if this will assist you or not, but I actually took the endbell off the pinion end of the motor and turned it around a couple of holes. This assisted with setting the solder tabs to the top and having a better angle for the sensor cable to miss the steering posts. pic isnt real clear but only one available atm.

Hey guys! Ive had this buggy for about 5 months, and I really like it, Im using a tekin 2050 and it moves! I noticed people started to get frustrated with the speed of my car on our indoor track, and me being kind of young I don't really listen to anybody. So I tried dialing the speed down but then people said it was too slow lol! So for the winter season I'll be using my dad's 22 buggy instead of my 811e. But anyway It was difficult Finding time to work on the 811, diffs, shocks, clean up, etc. So this is only for the best. I have now broken a carbon shock tower and bent an aluminum one. So, anyway that's my update, happy driving everyone!

The 1700 buggy motor is what you need for indoor.

Here is a setup for the 811BE and new 2.0 rear end. So far guys at our track are going .5 a lap faster or more than the old one.

I saw u are running shorty packs, are u putting them fr or rear?

it says reedy 4100 shorty packs in the rear.

What all was changed in setup compared to the stock parts? I see your sheet but would like to know the difference between the 2, thanks.

George, the rear end comes with just about a whole new rear end. Here's a pic of the kit http://www.serpent.com/product/600642/ if you haven't seen it yet. The buggy is better throughout cornering, jumping, and really good running through the bumps. Seeing Bula is high bite it should make the car easier to drive.

im having a slow speed push in the middle of the turn (sharp 180's). I really have to slow down a lot to get it to turn. running pink springs on the front and the rest of the front is stock...I also have the 2.0 rear kit