e???

where it doesnt fit? too big spur ?

or they rub on belt? this part where is screw?
just flip it 180 deg and maybe use dremel on shaft from engine ?

any pinion should be ok, sometimes need use dremel to made longer flat place on shaft on engine

the xray spurs fit just fine in the TC6. Thats almost all I would ever run in mine

Nice! Thank you. I just want to be sure before buying

Is any using the exotek chassis for the tc6.1

I think the guys have already a thread: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...k-chassis.html

I'm new to TC so I could really use a few tips.
Does the tweak need to be setup like pan cars? If so, is it just done by setting the ride height collars on the springs? Any tips on doing this would be great?
Also, when setting up the car's ride height, are the droop screws used at all? I'm assuming the car suspension isn't fully extended when the car is sitting at ride height, so the droop screws don't come into play.
Thanks.

Yes.

See below.

The droop screws shouldn't be touching at ride height, but droop is very important.

It's important to get the static weight distribution of the car balanced left to right. I use corner scales for this, but I think the TC6.1 has holes in the center of the shock towers that you can put a string / pin / small hex wrench into. Lift up both ends, and see if it sags to one side. It doesn't necessarily have to be absolutely perfect, but it needs to be close.

Before you put the springs on, compare each pair in terms of length. Sometimes one spring is longer than the other. You'll have to compensate for that in the preload adjustment. You might want to mark the long one with a sharpie if they're way off.

Next, set the ride height. Back off the droop screws to make sure they aren't limited your ride height.

Optional: lift up the chassis to see how far it lifts before the tires come off the board. Adjust the droop screws to get it in the ballpark. Probably 1.5-2mm up travel in front and 2-3mm in the rear. You'll want more on asphalt then carpet, probably.

Next, get the droop spot on with the droop gauge. I mean absolutely perfect left to right.

Finally, use a hex driver under the rear of the chassis in the balance hole and lift the chassis slowly. Verify that both rear wheels lift off the board at the same time. If one wheel lifts first, that means you either got the left/right balance way off, or your front end is tweaked. Tighten the diagonally-opposite spring, and loosen the spring on the same side of the other end of the car. When both wheels lift at the same time, flip the car around and repeat while lifting the front end.

You can also place the car hanging off your setup board, with the edge of the setup board going across the center of your chassis. Push down on the end that's hanging off so the end that's over the board isn't touching. Slowly lift the end that's hanging off the board. Both wheels on the other end should touch down at the same time. If they don't, you screwed up the droop. Watch how the suspension compresses on the other end as you continue to add more weight, especially as the chassis lifts off the edge of the board. You'll be able to see one side compress faster than the other if the end over the board is tweaked. Tighten the spring that sinks faster, and loosen the other, and try again. When it looks good, flip the car around and repeat with the other end. This technique does NOT work well if you have battery tape under the chassis. However, the stock TC6.1 battery mounts don't have that problem.

After all that, re-check the ride height to make sure you didn't mess it up with the spring adjustments. Then re-do all the checks to make sure things still look good.

If you have more droop in general, the car will be less sensitive to tweak. But as you run less and less droop, the car will be much more sensitive to tweak.

-Mike

Hi Guys,

I'v purchased the new bearing caps for my TC6.1 and am unsure which holes to use, what size shim or no shim, and black or silver ball stud?

Thanks

As above, im a bit confused about how these give longer links?
if anything, that seem shorter...

what wheel hex's are you guys using with the RSD DCJs?
Thanks Jason

Thanks for the tips grippgoat

The 5mm one RSD offers. I also ordered the 4mm one, but haven't tested it yet.

thank you. do you know if ones like hb would fit?
Thanks Jason

Hot bodies will fit, yes.

With the 4mm ones you have to be watchful with the wheels you use. Smaller diameter ones can rub on the A Arm. I typically shave my A-Arms anyways, since the ribs on them will rub under suspension compression with most wheels.

They are not intended to give longer links, just the vertical ballstud tuning option. V1 is the same length as #s 1/3 on the tower, and V3 is the same as #7. V2 is in between. 2.5mm w/ a short bs is the same height as the #1 hole. Start with what you have been running, and tune from there.

Yes, they do. 5mm hex is the same as the standard hex.