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Old 05-11-2012, 08:10 AM
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I ran my TC6.1 last night for the first time. the rear of the car is still a little loose, but I was turning in faster laps time with it than I did with my TC5.
However, I did run into a couple of issues that I hope you can help me solve:
1) the piece that gets installed in the front A-arm which the lower shock ball mounts to kept popping out. Both the left and right were doing this. How do I stop it from doing this? I figure I could just use a drop of CA and get them to stay, but that would mean they are permanently attached to the A-Arm and I would get no chance to use any of the other positions if I wanted.

2) I sheared of 2 of the castor blocks. And a friend of mine, also with a TC6.1, sheared one of his. I know this probably happened by the "wall jumping in front of my car", but I don't want to keep fixing this when it happens. I would like to use an aluminum castor block, but I can't find any for the TC6.1. However, I have found them for the TC6. Are the TC6 and TC6.1 castor blocks compatible with each other, except for the fact that you can change the castor on the TC6.1 by changing the insert?

thanks,
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Old 05-11-2012, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by rc_speed View Post
I ran my TC6.1 last night for the first time. the rear of the car is still a little loose, but I was turning in faster laps time with it than I did with my TC5.
However, I did run into a couple of issues that I hope you can help me solve:
1) the piece that gets installed in the front A-arm which the lower shock ball mounts to kept popping out. Both the left and right were doing this. How do I stop it from doing this? I figure I could just use a drop of CA and get them to stay, but that would mean they are permanently attached to the A-Arm and I would get no chance to use any of the other positions if I wanted.

2) I sheared of 2 of the castor blocks. And a friend of mine, also with a TC6.1, sheared one of his. I know this probably happened by the "wall jumping in front of my car", but I don't want to keep fixing this when it happens. I would like to use an aluminum castor block, but I can't find any for the TC6.1. However, I have found them for the TC6. Are the TC6 and TC6.1 castor blocks compatible with each other, except for the fact that you can change the castor on the TC6.1 by changing the insert?

thanks,
Make sure that the threads in the arm that the ballstud threads into are not stripped out. If they are, this is why it is popping out.

You can use the C hubs from the TC6, you just need a ~0.25mm shim on the hinge pin (they are a hair narrower than the 6.1 c hubs). I would suggest using the plastic c hubs for the TC6. Even being dremeled out to run DCJ's, they are still extremely durable.
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by rc_speed View Post
I ran my TC6.1 last night for the first time.

2) I sheared of 2 of the castor blocks. And a friend of mine, also with a TC6.1, sheared one of his. I know this probably happened by the "wall jumping in front of my car", but I don't want to keep fixing this when it happens. I would like to use an aluminum castor block, but I can't find any for the TC6.1. However, I have found them for the TC6. Are the TC6 and TC6.1 castor blocks compatible with each other, except for the fact that you can change the castor on the TC6.1 by changing the insert?

thanks,
My suggestion is...carry plenty of spares. I carry at least 2 of everything. The caster blocks are nice cuz they can be used on either side. Especially when I was trying to figure the car out...I broke plent of stuff. I find myself with a lot less accidents and breakage now that the car is dialed in more and predictable. Make sure you go over the entire car after a crash. In a lot of cases you will find additional broken or bent stuff.
If you've raced tc before I'm sure u know the deal.
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 1mrdad View Post
I am new to the TC6 and paved on road asphalt racing (So far, I have only driven the car at 1 race and 2 practice sessions). The track is 225x125 smooth asphalt. I am running 17.5 blinky on Solaris spec tires exactly following Jeff Cuff's set-up sheet. Right now the car's back end is loose. I am going to start experimenting with different anti roll bars, roll centers, ant-squat, toe, camber, etc to see if I can remedy the problem. I have 3 questions. I was thinking of switching from the rear ball diff to a gear diff. What weight oil do you all recommend? I also noticed that at either left or right steering end point under power, the front wheels/drive train start to shake. Is that normal? I have to reduce EPA to 85% for it to stop. Lastly, I am using a brand new Express Motorsports (Revtech) 17.5. FDR is 3.4, temps in the high 120's (ambient air 75), twin motor fans, but on the main staright (225') EVERYONE passes me. Nothing seems to be binding in the drivetrain, and I have replaced all of the ball bearings with Avids. Any suggestions?
I ran the car at practice last night. I changed the rear to a gear diff with 40w shock oil, a front TC6.1 roll bar, a new front drive belt (after I heard it slipping, the teeth were rounded.), and maxed the timing on the RevTech. For the last hour of practice the car was planted. There were 5 other guys and we had impromptu races, My car was faster through the infield than all of them. I found that the car stopped over steering when I ran the Solaris tires without sauce. I was using Liquid Gravity LG2. I am going to switch to Paragon FXII.
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 1mrdad View Post
I found that the car stopped over steering when I ran the Solaris tires without sauce. I was using Liquid Gravity LG2. I am going to switch to Paragon FXII.
Make sure you aren't putting on the LG2 too thick. It works best if you put it on very thin, and then massage it into the tire. It should sit for about 20-30 mins before you go on the track. When I tested LG2 back to back with FX2, LG2 was a good 2 tenths/lap faster than FX2 in 17.5 blinky (solaris hards) at my home track. Having tires that are still wet with LG2 could easily yeild opposite results. LG2 gets a little tacky when it's fully dry, which is how you know you did it right. I put 4 small dabs every 90* on the tire and work it in
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:56 AM
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Mike Haynes - Jackson R/C
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
Dialed car all day. He is going to do some work with this at Reedy!
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Old 05-14-2012, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MDawson View Post
Dialed car all day. He is going to do some work with this at Reedy!
+2
Its all about rear wheelbase length. Thanks again Haynes!
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Old 05-14-2012, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MDawson View Post
Dialed car all day. He is going to do some work with this at Reedy!
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:51 PM
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Hi , I am just getting into the on-road side of the hobby and bought a TC6.1 . What is a good starting point for gearing a 17.5 for blinky ? Motor will either be a Trinity D3 or Revtech .

Any must have parts or upgrades to get ?

Thanks
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Briguy View Post
Hi , I am just getting into the on-road side of the hobby and bought a TC6.1 . What is a good starting point for gearing a 17.5 for blinky ? Motor will either be a Trinity D3 or Revtech .

Any must have parts or upgrades to get ?

Thanks
I just started on-road with the TC6.1 also. Only a couple races on it so far. So far Id say you should have a set of the green springs for the rear shocks, the sway bar kit, a gear diff for the front and a couple spare sets of the caster blocks (only part that I seem to be able to break on the boards).

I'm running blinky with the Reedy Sonic 17.5 geared at 38/72 (48P gears) and it seems to run well. Thats a 3.8 FDR. I'm coming off the track at around 160F on the motor after a 6 min heat with no motor fan or heat sinks Timing on the end bell is set to 45.
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jhautz View Post
I'm running blinky with the Reedy Sonic 17.5 geared at 38/72 (48P gears) and it seems to run well. Thats a 3.8 FDR. I'm coming off the track at around 160F on the motor after a 6 min heat with no motor fan or heat sinks Timing on the end bell is set to 45.
Gearing will of course depend on the track.

Briguy... Running a 3.8FDR at Leisure would be bad, you'll want to go lower. Depending on whether or not you're running a fan, I'd start around 3.5 (with a D3, at least)and then go lower if need be.
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Old 05-14-2012, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by LasagnaCat View Post
Gearing will of course depend on the track.

Briguy... Running a 3.8FDR at Leisure would be bad, you'll want to go lower. Depending on whether or not you're running a fan, I'd start around 3.5 (with a D3, at least)and then go lower if need be.
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:09 PM
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Has anyone tried to mount a VTA body on a TC6? I picked up a used one to run in VTA but the front body posts are way to short to fit the VTA body. Is there something longer that will fit? Im sure I can piece something together, but I just thought Id ask to see if there is something that is an easy bolt on solution for a taller front body post. Its hard to tell how long the posts are looking at pictures n the internet and Im sure someone has already solved this.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jhautz View Post
Has anyone tried to mount a VTA body on a TC6? I picked up a used one to run in VTA but the front body posts are way to short. Is there something longer that will fit? Im sure I can piece something together, but I just thought Id ask to see if there is something that is an easy bolt on solution for a taller front body post. Its hard to tell how long the posts are looking at pictures n the internet and Im sure someone has already solved this.

Thanks in advance.
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