5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
09-09-2012 | 08:33 PM
**whatever you do, do not run the truck without the belt guard/cover! Dirt + rotating parts = nothing good**
09-09-2012 | 08:44 PM
Truck is finally done. And its looking very good! Took me all day while watching my 4month old. Long day.
One thing I noticed is the front diff shims are perfect...(stock)
The rear diff is now shimmed perfectly with both the .5 that ae mailed me. (finally installed)
I previously had two @ .2 on each side, thanks to WC. That was a good MacGyver at the end of an evening!
2 dudes at my track have been running it without the belt cover for months now... indoor clay
One thing I noticed is the front diff shims are perfect...(stock)
The rear diff is now shimmed perfectly with both the .5 that ae mailed me. (finally installed)
I previously had two @ .2 on each side, thanks to WC. That was a good MacGyver at the end of an evening!
2 dudes at my track have been running it without the belt cover for months now... indoor clay
Last edited by ryanpatrickgore; 09-09-2012 at 09:20 PM.
09-09-2012 | 08:57 PM
what is the center diff? is it the slipper setup.
Center ball diff. Great but not necessary... depending on your taste I guess. What is it explanation here http://www.rctech.net/forum/10015740-post6.html
what is the 8mm mod?
Drive the truck for now and get used to it while you catch up on reading this thread to see if 8mm mod would help you. You should be reading within the past month or two, use search in this thread or google's probably better than rctech search.
how should i set the stock slipper clutch? set it on the ground and hit the throtal, watch the front end to see how much it raises?
At least get the garodisks from RCshox for the old school two pad slipper for now if not the C-Diff. Adjust to where you slip for the first few feet @ full throttle on the track you are at... traction control. Start with manual suggested slipper nut setting and adjust from there for the traction at your track.
Shim rear diff...
Do you have a few shock limiter clips under the rubber bumper on the shock shafts? You need them. 8mm total including rubber bumper.
Call AE and they will mail thicker diff shims at no cost. I think .3 thick is correct, but the .5 AE ones cost $0 to your door and one minute on the phone.
Center ball diff. Great but not necessary... depending on your taste I guess. What is it explanation here http://www.rctech.net/forum/10015740-post6.html
what is the 8mm mod?
Drive the truck for now and get used to it while you catch up on reading this thread to see if 8mm mod would help you. You should be reading within the past month or two, use search in this thread or google's probably better than rctech search.
how should i set the stock slipper clutch? set it on the ground and hit the throtal, watch the front end to see how much it raises?
At least get the garodisks from RCshox for the old school two pad slipper for now if not the C-Diff. Adjust to where you slip for the first few feet @ full throttle on the track you are at... traction control. Start with manual suggested slipper nut setting and adjust from there for the traction at your track.
Shim rear diff...
Do you have a few shock limiter clips under the rubber bumper on the shock shafts? You need them. 8mm total including rubber bumper.
Call AE and they will mail thicker diff shims at no cost. I think .3 thick is correct, but the .5 AE ones cost $0 to your door and one minute on the phone.
we race on three outdoor tracks in the area so it is a handfull being new to 4x4 and trying to get it right for 3 diff size tracks.
one is small like indoor but dusty,
2nd is med sized and hard but dusty some what bumpy
the 3rd is a large clay based great grip and fast. this track they race 1/5 scale trucks on, boy that gives me room to gather up most mistakes...lol
but again i just wanted to say thanks for the input
09-09-2012 | 09:50 PM
You can trim the cage on the RX8 and use the outside screws (2) to keep the fan in place and the belt "rail" will fit right in there with just enough clearance for the fan.
**whatever you do, do not run the truck without the belt guard/cover! Dirt + rotating parts = nothing good**
**whatever you do, do not run the truck without the belt guard/cover! Dirt + rotating parts = nothing good**
09-09-2012 | 10:21 PM
Drive it first and check temps, you should be correct where your at. You will run cooler on dirt than on grass. Your esc temp will probably come down and your motor temp is cool for 10 min.
Takes 5 min to change pinion so you can change at the track if needed but I don't think you will.
Takes 5 min to change pinion so you can change at the track if needed but I don't think you will.
Motor: 150
ESC: 110
Lipo: 100
I think im pretty happy with that and will prob keep it that way. Another guy there had almost the same combo i do except he has a small fan on the motor and his temps never break 130 on the motor. Something I may try in the future.
I also figured out that I have the rcshox ball diff v2, with 6 pins installed. Im going to have to order some more because 6 is all i have. Also the front clicker had a piece in there that replaced the spring and completely locked it in. Someone at the track was nice enough to give me a spare spring to try. Im not sure which I liked better haha
The truck overall seemed ok, it pushed a ton and would hardly steer. I would have to be almost complete off the throttle just to get it around, or id have to steer with the rear. I would like to bring some steering back into it.
The olnly other issue I came across is that the diff is still making a ton of noise, sounds to me like the diff gears skipping the teeth of the sun gears. Im going to tear it down this week and check the shims. I got a few recomendations as far as what diff oil to use. Seems like the couple guys i talked to at the track said to go with 7k rear 20k front.
sorry for the novel
Any help or imput is greeeaatttlllyyyy appreciated!
09-09-2012 | 10:40 PM
Tech Addict
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 667
Pretty sure I will have to use the Ae rear drive plate with , but otherwise will be using soon .
( AVID 87T spur & Robinson pinion)
Already used a AVID slipper for a few runs with my B4
Will order my AVIDs later this week...
And of course ...
Will tell everyone about how they performed for me after I get ....
( AVID 87T spur & Robinson pinion)Already used a AVID slipper for a few runs with my B4
Will order my AVIDs later this week...
And of course ...
Will tell everyone about how they performed for me after I get ....
The 4wd SC and 550 motors requires a different setup than the Triad to be optimized....the VTS4 was designed for the 4x4 and you should run it. We did design the Triad for SC10 and it works great on my truck and makes it feel more planted and less wheel spin!
09-09-2012 | 10:50 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,250
The Triad is designed for 10th scale 2wd, 4wd, and SC10. It doesn't fit onto the SC10 4x4 due to the inner drive pulley/hub design. To get it to work you'd have to lathe down the inner pulley drive hub to 18.5mm. We haven't even tested it to be honest.
The 4wd SC and 550 motors requires a different setup than the Triad to be optimized....the VTS4 was designed for the 4x4 and you should run it. We did design the Triad for SC10 and it works great on my truck and makes it feel more planted and less wheel spin!
The 4wd SC and 550 motors requires a different setup than the Triad to be optimized....the VTS4 was designed for the 4x4 and you should run it. We did design the Triad for SC10 and it works great on my truck and makes it feel more planted and less wheel spin!
I Ordered two (b4,sc10) eariler today. Next will be springs. We need SC10 4x4 Springs from you guys! <3
09-10-2012 | 01:09 AM
So i finally made it out to the track for some testing. I learned a few things and had a couple guys willing to help me out and explain some stuff to me. First thing I did was put a full pack thru it and checked temps all around. The 13 i had in it seemed to run a bit hot and the motor came off at 170, so i went in and got a 12. With the smaller pinion heres what i got:
Motor: 150
ESC: 110
Lipo: 100
I think im pretty happy with that and will prob keep it that way. Another guy there had almost the same combo i do except he has a small fan on the motor and his temps never break 130 on the motor. Something I may try in the future.
I also figured out that I have the rcshox ball diff v2, with 6 pins installed. Im going to have to order some more because 6 is all i have. Also the front clicker had a piece in there that replaced the spring and completely locked it in. Someone at the track was nice enough to give me a spare spring to try. Im not sure which I liked better haha
The truck overall seemed ok, it pushed a ton and would hardly steer. I would have to be almost complete off the throttle just to get it around, or id have to steer with the rear. I would like to bring some steering back into it.
The olnly other issue I came across is that the diff is still making a ton of noise, sounds to me like the diff gears skipping the teeth of the sun gears. Im going to tear it down this week and check the shims. I got a few recomendations as far as what diff oil to use. Seems like the couple guys i talked to at the track said to go with 7k rear 20k front.
sorry for the novel Any help or imput is greeeaatttlllyyyy appreciated!
Motor: 150
ESC: 110
Lipo: 100
I think im pretty happy with that and will prob keep it that way. Another guy there had almost the same combo i do except he has a small fan on the motor and his temps never break 130 on the motor. Something I may try in the future.
I also figured out that I have the rcshox ball diff v2, with 6 pins installed. Im going to have to order some more because 6 is all i have. Also the front clicker had a piece in there that replaced the spring and completely locked it in. Someone at the track was nice enough to give me a spare spring to try. Im not sure which I liked better haha
The truck overall seemed ok, it pushed a ton and would hardly steer. I would have to be almost complete off the throttle just to get it around, or id have to steer with the rear. I would like to bring some steering back into it.
The olnly other issue I came across is that the diff is still making a ton of noise, sounds to me like the diff gears skipping the teeth of the sun gears. Im going to tear it down this week and check the shims. I got a few recomendations as far as what diff oil to use. Seems like the couple guys i talked to at the track said to go with 7k rear 20k front.
sorry for the novel
Any help or imput is greeeaatttlllyyyy appreciated!
09-10-2012 | 05:55 AM
I would suggest 7k or 5k front and 5k rear with the c-diff. 20k works best with the slipper. Try going with fewer pins in the diff to see if it helps the push. I ran 5 pins in mine on a hard pack blue groove track and it worked well. The lighter front diff fluid may help the most.
09-10-2012 | 06:13 AM
Dan & Cain, right on the money with the diff fluid. I run 5/5 with the C-Diff.
Dirty, do yourself a HUGE favor and have new gears for the diff when you pull it apart to shim it or you will more than likely be doing it a second time.
Order a couple 62 tooth spur gears from RcShox for spares along with the pins. You will more than likely end up running 6 pins once you drop the oil weight in the diff, but those wear so good to get some freshies.
Absolutely the first tuning change though is 5k front fluid.
On the temps, if you ask tekin they will tell you that you are geared correctly based on temps. I prefer 160, but I am not running the pro4. Add a fan with the 13 and your at 160 with more torque out of the motor and top end than the 12.
I come off at 150 after a heat but 180 during practice if I drive for more than 10 min.
Dirty, do yourself a HUGE favor and have new gears for the diff when you pull it apart to shim it or you will more than likely be doing it a second time.
Order a couple 62 tooth spur gears from RcShox for spares along with the pins. You will more than likely end up running 6 pins once you drop the oil weight in the diff, but those wear so good to get some freshies.
Absolutely the first tuning change though is 5k front fluid.
On the temps, if you ask tekin they will tell you that you are geared correctly based on temps. I prefer 160, but I am not running the pro4. Add a fan with the 13 and your at 160 with more torque out of the motor and top end than the 12.
I come off at 150 after a heat but 180 during practice if I drive for more than 10 min.
09-10-2012 | 06:29 AM
On the pin count, it can get peoples heads spinning
Fewer pins is like an open diff that allows the power to transfer to the wheel with the least resistance. Out of a turn, weight & traction is at the rear and the power will transfer to the front giving you push out of the turn.
More pins will transfer power more equally to front & rear giving you more or a balance towards oversteer.
Once you have your diff oils changed out, play with the pin count to get the desired amount of under/over steer.
Fewer pins is like an open diff that allows the power to transfer to the wheel with the least resistance. Out of a turn, weight & traction is at the rear and the power will transfer to the front giving you push out of the turn.
More pins will transfer power more equally to front & rear giving you more or a balance towards oversteer.
Once you have your diff oils changed out, play with the pin count to get the desired amount of under/over steer.
09-10-2012 | 06:48 AM
thanks fq06, have been reading and putting full effort into this truck and just realized i never told you thanks for all the thought you put into your reply.
we race on three outdoor tracks in the area so it is a handfull being new to 4x4 and trying to get it right for 3 diff size tracks.
one is small like indoor but dusty,
2nd is med sized and hard but dusty some what bumpy
the 3rd is a large clay based great grip and fast. this track they race 1/5 scale trucks on, boy that gives me room to gather up most mistakes...lol
but again i just wanted to say thanks for the input
we race on three outdoor tracks in the area so it is a handfull being new to 4x4 and trying to get it right for 3 diff size tracks.
one is small like indoor but dusty,
2nd is med sized and hard but dusty some what bumpy
the 3rd is a large clay based great grip and fast. this track they race 1/5 scale trucks on, boy that gives me room to gather up most mistakes...lol
but again i just wanted to say thanks for the input
Sooner or later, think about the center diff. Priceless if you run multiple tracks that require different setups. I just change pin count and 5wt in shock oil between indoor & outdoor tracks. I don't have to change a bunch of setting between the two. If the outdoor track was recently redone and not blown out, no oil change, just pins for the difference in traction.
Like I said, not necessary, but you will wonder why you waited so long to get it once you have it
09-10-2012 | 08:19 AM
