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Old 09-08-2012 | 07:31 AM
  #29446  
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[QUOTE=JEFFs SC10;11186966]Yes and No LOL.

I based it off Maifield's setup with a little extra rear camber and different ballast weight since I run the exotek.


How much and where is your weight placed?
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Old 09-08-2012 | 09:52 AM
  #29447  
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Well after lots of racing, the standard saddle lipos just doing cut it runtime wise with a 4 pole. So i whipped this up on the CNC to run 2 1s 6500 60c Reedy lipos, wired as a 2s saddle. Now I have 6500mah which should be plenty of runtime over the regular saddle lipos. Heres a sneak peak of the prototype.

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Old 09-08-2012 | 03:14 PM
  #29448  
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Welcome to the 1s party!
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Old 09-08-2012 | 03:29 PM
  #29449  
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Saddle packs have a club now ?
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Old 09-08-2012 | 03:47 PM
  #29450  
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Here is the final mock up, will make some cf battery straps when my cf comes in


Last edited by SavageCanadian; 09-09-2012 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 09-08-2012 | 03:59 PM
  #29451  
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anyone got more info on these "steel diff inserts" thats maifield was using at the Supernats?
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Old 09-08-2012 | 05:34 PM
  #29452  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Saddle packs have a club now ?
Those aren't saddle packs. Look close.
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Old 09-08-2012 | 05:39 PM
  #29453  
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Ryan I added 20 grams of the of the ballast weight up front on each side of the servo. Works great.
I can probably get away with 15 and it would be alriight. I like that it naturally nose dives.

I was in a huge race today and after doing only one qualifier I qualified in the B main out of 40 entries and that was driving carefully and conservative.
Truck was on rails. BarCodes in Green Compound were the $$. I've only been on this track once too so I'm pretty optimistic that I can do better.

I wasn't jumping big like the Losi's I played it safe. I wanted to be consistent.

I gotta say in indoor I'll be keeping this truck now.
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Old 09-08-2012 | 07:11 PM
  #29454  
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correction: 40grams each side, Jeff.

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/31296/

Every bit of that is in the front of his truck. =)


Originally Posted by Jake S
anyone got more info on these "steel diff inserts" thats maifield was using at the Supernats?
They said "soon" last year around christmas. =/
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Old 09-08-2012 | 07:45 PM
  #29455  
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Nothing on the left side of the chassis? My battery side is heavier.
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Old 09-08-2012 | 07:47 PM
  #29456  
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Saddle packs, broseph. There 'isn't' a battery side. =)

But yes, Ryan also put something like 30-40 grams in the bucket with the spur gear because he was running the big Reedy 550 motor.
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Old 09-08-2012 | 07:55 PM
  #29457  
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Yea I have sticks..
1oz each side of servo
1oz in tub left of battery
550 reedy too
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Old 09-08-2012 | 07:57 PM
  #29458  
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Originally Posted by SC Shaun
They said "soon" last year around christmas. =/
"soon" was the 2wd last year.
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Old 09-08-2012 | 08:19 PM
  #29459  
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore
Been thinking about those rear blocks. Excited to hear back

Well, here you go!

First I want to describe the track conditions. The dirt here is a black dirt that when wet can get sticky to everything. As it dries, it gets loamy and gets to a sweat spot where you can find traction. However, in general its a very low traction track in my opinion.

The conditions ran a variety from bumpy sections to smooth sections. Jumps had 1 bigger jump (not like what Marcus has LOL) as well as this quad section off of a bank that you could triple but had to hit it just right.

For tires, I ran AKA SS City Blocks. These worked really well and didn't load up. Tires for these conditions ranged from step-pin (for other classes) all the way to proline "Reds" that were these well spaced mad max kind of pins that worked in 1/10 stadium truck.

My SC10 4x4 was setup in the following manner:

- Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro ESC using 428 stock software
- Tekin Pro 4 4000Kv motor
- Hyperion 6000mah 30C Saddle Pack Lipos
- Jr 9100S servo
- Futaba radio gear

- AKA SS Cityblocks on Hazard +3mm wheels
- Proline Flotek body trimmed heavily
- Exotek Chassis and center saddle pack mounts
- RC Shox Center Diff V2 4 pins
- RC Shox Pistons
- 13T Pinion 62T Spur


NOTE: no added weight!

For my chassis setup, I started with the RC Shox base setup with the following changes (going from memory here for now)

FRONT:
- Blue Front springs
- 27.5 Losi oil
- 1.8mm sway bar
- 5mm shim under ball stud

REAR:
- NO 8mm mod
- Rear camber link outer most position on hub
- Rear shock inner most position on the tower
- Green Front Springs
- 22.5 Losi oil
- 1.5mm sway bar
- stock toe in position and anti squat (using M2C Block)

I went with the stock position for the block as I wanted something to compare to. I also went with the maximum length position on the rear hub carrier as I figured this would be something I would normally due to get more grip.

For my initial heat, the vehicle felt not as planted as I wanted in the rear which I was expecting. This behavior was similar to what I experience at the last track I went to which felt similar condition wise at times. A bit better for sure, but not what was needed against the losis and the durangos who were on fire around the track. I also had an annoying slight push on low speed turns.

the next heat I went ahead and changed out the M2C block to the full 3.5 toe in setting as I wasn't sure how many heats we would have. So sorry, no 3.25 testing. anti squat still stock setting and would be that way the rest of the day . I left the rest of the car the same to get a good comparison.

Conditions were low traction. Watering was done but with the temps low, it seemed to just keep the conditions the same versus more traction being available after watering. There was more sure, but by the time we got to it, we missed the sweet spot.

The 2nd heat went VERY well. The rear end was PLANTED. And I don't mean like annoyingly planted where you were fighting it to get it to turn. It just hooked up. No weird kicking out of the rear end down any straight. In the end I was 3rd behind the leaders overall. Definitely faster as I could push the car with more confidence.

It was decided to run another heat, so I left the car as is as I wanted to see if it was a fluke because of watering. the next heat showed that it wasn't as I was able to this time move into the second overall qualifying spot just behind a guy with an extremely fast losi that he has had for some time. As I get to race rarely, I felt pretty good.

After going back to the pits I thought more about the last heat and what areas the vehicle needed improvement. This lead me to the issue of not enough turn in off of low speed turns. I would basically push outwards and scrubb time that way. Looking at my setup sheets, I decided to go with the ball stud position of 2mm up front like on the kody setup as I didn't want to mess with the rear which felt planted to me but not the cause of the issue.

It was worth a shot I thought and I figured this way, I could show that I could leave the settings alone in the rear, but pickup my turn in with changes up front.

For the main, we started with a straight up start, and I got murdered of course. But, I had a smile on my face as around the rest of the track and during the race I was able to turn as I wanted, very fast, and put down some of the fastest lap times. Looking at the ending results, I finished 2nd and actually had laps that if I didn't get murdered, I believe I could have finished first.

So, to sum up, based on my experiences, on really loose tracks which this was I feel the M2C blocks can make a big difference in grip. Combined with the V2 Diff that shines in these conditions, the vehicle turned a lot of heads. For the money, I personally feel its a worth while upgrade.

Last edited by Cain; 09-09-2012 at 03:22 PM.
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Old 09-09-2012 | 08:10 AM
  #29460  
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I'm enjoying the topic of adding weights again..

Are any of you that are running saddle packs, adding weight to your truck? I just ordered the FT upgrade kit from Amain. Plus it seems to be an issue installing an rx8, are there any tips for me?

Thanks!
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