RC10B4.1 FT/WC
09-07-2012 | 08:48 PM
I found out that my local track runs a 13.5 2wd buggy class. The track is a small to medium sized, medium to high grip indoor clay track. According to the RC10B4.1 manual, I should start with a 28/75 gearing. I run a Brushless Hobbies 120 amp ESC and a 13.5 Hobbywing that doesn't have end bell timing. So based on this, can someone give me a starting point as far as ESC settings go?
Anyone else run this ESC?
Thanks for the continued assistance!
Thanks
Anyone else run this ESC?
Thanks for the continued assistance!
Thanks
09-07-2012 | 10:52 PM
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 96
Yo Copeland do you know if Hartson has already had these new shock towers all this time ? When I've looked at his car at OC_RC, it looked like the towers were fine (granted I was looking at the shocks & springs far closer than the towers).
These pics of Maifield & Denny's cars from the Hotrod Shootout don't look like mangled shock towers either
Jesse H.
http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content...ifield-2wd.jpg
http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content.../07/Denney.jpg
These pics of Maifield & Denny's cars from the Hotrod Shootout don't look like mangled shock towers either
Jesse H.
http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content...ifield-2wd.jpg
http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content.../07/Denney.jpg
09-07-2012 | 11:17 PM
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,610
From: Vancouver, Washington
Its about the same amount as we had to do with the RB5 when we mounted bog bores on them. a 2mm spacer seems to allow the front shocks to clear without grinding so much off the front tower, the rear tower either needs a new mounting system, or a new tower. Shimming will not work as it will just cause the springs to grab on the rear camber link and thats a big problem. It does not work right with the components that will come with the production big bore shocks most noticably the aluminum cap and spring load collar.
09-07-2012 | 11:26 PM
Its about the same amount as we had to do with the RB5 when we mounted bog bores on them. a 2mm spacer seems to allow the front shocks to clear without grinding so much off the front tower, the rear tower either needs a new mounting system, or a new tower. Shimming will not work as it will just cause the springs to grab on the rear camber link and thats a big problem. It does not work right with the components that will come with the production big bore shocks most noticably the aluminum cap and spring load collar.
Last edited by STLNLST; 09-08-2012 at 10:24 AM.
09-07-2012 | 11:27 PM
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,610
From: Vancouver, Washington
You know I never thought of that but it makes perfect sense. I can't remember how many times I've change out my front rims at home or the track and had a bearing or two get away from me only to go rolling all over the place and me chasing after it. Not a good sight for a big guy to be crawling on the ground looking under pit tables lol.....
09-07-2012 | 11:31 PM
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,610
From: Vancouver, Washington
The shocks you saw were using the old style pivot ball with eyelet or the new style which are slightly longer and eyelet is not just a round ball anymore and is spaced further out for the shock to clear the spring?
09-08-2012 | 01:03 AM
The shocks we are running are straight out of the package Kyosho BB and Losi BB. I dont know if Kyosho changed from a pivot ball or not. The Losi shocks are still the same as they were when the 22 was first released.
09-08-2012 | 07:34 AM
Ok talk to me about slipper adjustment. Currently have the stock V2 slipper assembly from the 4.1 Worlds, and am running a 8.5t non boosted motor (if that matters). My slipper had been WAY too tight and the diff was slipping...I have that figured but how tight should I make it? I loosened it to the point where the front lifts a few inches (3-4 maybe) when holding the rear wheels and hitting full throttle but if I put it on the carpet and gun it it will do a back flip (obviously not holding it).
Should I loosen this more?
Should I loosen this more?