Having watched a factory driver just get his BB's yesterday and building and mounting them I can tell you this much. The front shock tower gets hit by the adjustment collar, only solution is to space it out 2mm and use longer mounting screws for the top of the aluminum cap. The back is a mess. He basically had to remove so much material to be able to use the inner hole on the tower that it is now a very weak point. At around $60.00 per set, your going to have to do mods to the car that will weaken it. One thing about them is this, They are very very smooth, as smooth if not more then the Kyosho big bores. A new rear tower was mentioned but there is no date of release. From what he said a press release should go out next week with availablility of the BB shocks the week after. I will wait on them until they fix the problems with the towers. My Kyosho/Avid BB spring mod is working just fine. Plus I have a working setup for them.

And did the factory driver notice any difference in performance on the track? Can someone explain the theory of me as to why BB's are "better"? I'm half skeptical, and just half ignorant on the subject.

With that said, I hope AE releases them soon. I want to pick up some cheap v2's off of y'all for my +8 converted b4. I still have the unthreaded shocks that came with the very first b4 kits

I don't see why this factory driver had to butcher the tower to get the BB to fit? We've been able to fit Kyosho and Losi BB on the car without having to do all of that. Simple spacing and boom they fit without any shaving.

Just because somebody can wheel a toy car around a track fast doesn't mean they are smart. You can be a factory driver and still be an idiot.

Word.

PFK, your such a happy positive person, tell us more please.

You're mad because I always get you with my joke links
I bet I can get you one more time within the next two weeks.

I bet you cant

I'm kind of in the same boat. I did make the change to Losi BB springs using the Traxxas/Losi cup method. I didn't notice a night and day difference, but you can argue that I'm not a pro driver.

I think the excitement probably has to do more with getting something new from Associated than an amazing lap time improvement. The car is old, old, old... but it's really good. Sometimes a guy just wants to buy some r/c crap he doesn't necessarily need!

The most exciting stuff for our car recently is coming from AVID. Keep up the good work AVID.

i got a dumb question..when converting to hex's on the front end of the b4.1 and using clamping style hexs (avid in my case) is there any reason to run a roll pin thru the axle? like there is no drive to make them slip and it seems to be attached well with out it..i didnt see any mention of them in the required parts list for conversion..thnks in advance..oh and is there any options when it comes to a low profile front axle nut.all new tires and hexs ready to go and none of my lhs's have the associated ASC9880,,any thing else or another brands nut work dialed?

How will you tighten the nut without the axle spinning without the pin?

sure there are reasons. if the set screw loosens a little, the hex could spin on the axle. the axle will spin when you try to tighten the wheel. the clam screw is not really load bearing, just to keep it from sliding off. the pin supports it.


BB benefits? well the losi's really land better than the AE's on my local 8th scale track. they make almost no noise as they land and they really soak up the bumps. I am hoping this is largely because of the BB shocks. And i am hoping I will gain this with the upgrade. They may do nothing at all. But i am hoping.

Try fastnal,I think wildcat found some at ace hardware

It keeps your axle from escaping out the back should it get loose. Also, pitch the roll pin and use an old CVA pin, which is a lot easier to remove and is probably stronger.

look back a couple pages, I posted a pic of the wheel nuts I found at ace hardware.