RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Who has tried the new Pro-Line Holeshots front tires? If so, would you recomend them?
Also then new Tazer buggy tire from Pro-Line. Any feedback would be helpful.
Thank you in advance!!
Dennis
Also then new Tazer buggy tire from Pro-Line. Any feedback would be helpful.
Thank you in advance!!
Dennis
Tech Regular
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 329
From: Pella, IA
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,220
From: Houston TX (formally Sou CA)
So these would be the only two sizes of ball studs I would need to switch over to the Ti-Nitride Ball Studs?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-Stud-Set-2
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-Stud-Set-2
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-Stud-Set-2
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-Stud-Set-2
It depends on what you are looking for. Those are not light weight ti balls. Those are tini covered steel balls that reduce friction, not weight.
These
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Ball-Studs-14
are the solid ti balls that are lighter than stock.
But yes, you can get by with just those 2 sizes if that is what you are actually looking for.
So these would be the only two sizes of ball studs I would need to switch over to the Ti-Nitride Ball Studs?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-Stud-Set-2
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-Stud-Set-2
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-Stud-Set-2
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-Stud-Set-2
3 of #9796
2 of #9799
2 of #9798
1 of #9795
So double those quantities to do both your B4 and T4. You have to be careful when distinguishing between the "short" and "long". The black ballstuds that come with the kits are the "short" version, and the silver ballstuds are the "tall." The "tall" silver ballstuds (9796) are used on the front shock tower, rear u-brace, steering blocks, and steering bellcrank (9795). The "short" black ballstuds (9799) are used on the caster blocks, rear hubs, steering rack (9798), and servo horn (9798).
The numbers in parentheses are the Ti-Nitride replacements
For one car you need:
3 of #9796
2 of #9799
2 of #9798
1 of #9795
So double those quantities to do both your B4 and T4. You have to be careful when distinguishing between the "short" and "long". The black ballstuds that come with the kits are the "short" version, and the silver ballstuds are the "tall." The "tall" silver ballstuds (9796) are used on the front shock tower, rear u-brace, steering blocks, and steering bellcrank (9795). The "short" black ballstuds (9799) are used on the caster blocks, rear hubs, steering rack (9798), and servo horn (9798).
The numbers in parentheses are the Ti-Nitride replacements
3 of #9796
2 of #9799
2 of #9798
1 of #9795
So double those quantities to do both your B4 and T4. You have to be careful when distinguishing between the "short" and "long". The black ballstuds that come with the kits are the "short" version, and the silver ballstuds are the "tall." The "tall" silver ballstuds (9796) are used on the front shock tower, rear u-brace, steering blocks, and steering bellcrank (9795). The "short" black ballstuds (9799) are used on the caster blocks, rear hubs, steering rack (9798), and servo horn (9798).
The numbers in parentheses are the Ti-Nitride replacements
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,610
From: Vancouver, Washington
Having been able to test the smoothness of them myself, They are smooth, Kyosho still has a better inner coating that makes them smoother, However with that said they are a huge step up from the Friction monsters we have to deal with now.
Last edited by jpcopeland1; 09-03-2012 at 09:41 PM.
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,610
From: Vancouver, Washington
Every time I see pics or vids of all these other tracks, I realize just how freekin spoiled I am out here in SoCal (20 mins away from both OC_RC and West Coast)
Concrete wall barriers and support posts in the middle of the layout is yikes and rofl to me. Nice driving Cherry 
Concrete wall barriers and support posts in the middle of the layout is yikes and rofl to me. Nice driving Cherry 
I just replaced the rear hubs on my b4.1 FT with racers edge hubs + hingepin grub screw and replaced bearings with avid - and virtually all that slop which has been in the rear (and I just shrugged off as tolerable) is gone. the car is a lot quieter/smoother too which I am assuming is because the wheels are not wobbling off axis. Highly recommended mod.






