whats up guys i just bought another sc10 i sold my other 1 about 18 months ago to go 4x4 but now iam back. seems like there has been so many changes in the last year.i had quick question do you notice a big difference with the stabalizer bars. didnt want to spend money if there not needed.

From JC:
Short Course trucks are very body sensitive. The proper body style, cut-outs, overall weight and roll characteristics can determine a properly handling vehicle. The SC10 has a very flexible rear body mount which provides several durability advantages but when it comes to performance, having a sturdy base to the body is critical. JConcepts rear SC10 body mount brace performs just as the description suggests and supports the body mount in high-force situations.

While in the turns, the weight of the body hangs down in the rear and allows the body to flex toward the tires which cause unwanted handling and aero changes which may contribute to an ill handling vehicle. Simply install the brace as instructed and the body will now remain in a more standardized position on high-bite conditions and during hard corning.

I never liked them, but it depends on where you race and your style of driving.

I haven't started yet, but have been taking a few notes on the 'little' and more un-mentioned tuning options. I really don't know or understand the effects of pretty much anything at this point though.

Just for clarification,
chancejeff stated he has 1 washer under both front and rear ball studs.

J_bone advised to use 2 washers up front and no washers for the rear. but then to add one to the rear to see how it goes?

So would this mean to use one washer under the rear ballstud?

What effect does raising front and lowering rear camber ballstuds have on handling?

Does anyone have a weblink to these washers? Or better, what sizes of washers should I stock up on for tuning everything?

quick question,I'm going to be pulling my kids tranny apart here in a few so i thought id ask real quick,yesterday took my sons rtr sc10 to the park,its only been driven on the street so far with the throttle turned down,we took it to the park yesterday and i turned it up a little for him,he did two donuts and then the tranny starts clicking,its still got the black grease in the diff,I'm a ball diff guy and the gear diff is new,is this something that happens a lot or maybe just needs some oil in it? this truck has maybe 3 packs through it on the street and thats it,still brand new.

Might check the shimming of the sun gears in the diff, they may need an extra shim under them to move them closer to the spider gears. This is something that has been talked about quite extensively with the sc 4x4 trucks gear diffs. I haven't ran a gear diff in my SC10 since the first generation of them. I would start there.

They are commonly referred to as ball stud washers and are .030 in thickness. The AE part number is 9630.

thanks matt,ill check that out tonight when i pull it apart,i have no experience with the gear diffs at all in 10th scale cars

Anyone ever have an issue with the proline Flotek body rubbing on the front wheels? On the new body I had to trim quite a bit off so it wouldn't hit the wheel.

I run 2 up from and none in rear.
He should try adding one to his current setup. Start with front and then he can try one in rear.
By raising the inner side of camber link, it will have less body/chassis roll.

Thanks guys!

I thought you shortened the link for less body rolls? Same effect as raising the inside?

Lengthening the link will decrease roll

hmm, ok. I was reading a rc tuning guide and could have sworn it said longer links cause you to dive in the corners. I took that as more roll.

"Long Link A long link gives a lot of body roll in turns.
It feels as is the body is willing to keep on rolling, until in the end, the springs prevent it from rolling any further.
The car has more grip in corners, especially the middle part.
Short Link A short link makes that the body doesn't roll as far, its tendency to roll drops off as it rolls.
This can stabilize a car in bumps and curved sections.
It feels as is the car generates a little less grip.
Parallel Link
(Parallel to lower arm) A parallel link gives a little more roll than an angled one.
It feels very smooth, and consistent as the body rolls in turns.
Angled Link
(Distance between arm and link is smaller on the inside) An angled link makes it feel as if the car has a tendency to center itself (level, no roll), other than through the springs or anti-roll bar.
It gives a little more initial grip, steering into corners. It makes it very easy to 'throw' the car.
The body rolls a little less than with parallel links.
On bumpy tracks, it could be possible to use softer settings for damping and spring rate than with parallel links, without destabilizing the car"

that was the quote I read from hudy.