I have an ep 1/16 traxxas erevo vxl brushless and an ep 1/8 thunder tiger mt4 g3 brushless(truggy based) monster truck. Heard that the DIOT is quite dusty. How does it compare to the Segar?

Alright guys quick questions,
Tha 1/10th tc track down at bottle tree park...would that be considered a low, medium or high grip track? And for gearing on 8.5t motor for that track I was thinking around 6.5 DDR, any suggestions? Thanks

I need some help with my 1/10 2wd buggy which is EP. When its turned on, and i press the throttle. I can hear the motor running, but the wheels do not move at all. I think it has something to do with the clutch but im not to entirely sure. Can anyone help?

thanks in advance

ok, just a quick question...have you got a pinion gear installed and is it in full contact of the spur? what model rc buggy do you have?

Never heard b4 EP got clutch. Check the pinion gear 1st. Is it in contact or is the grup screw is missing there. If not take out motor connect and check when u throttle the motor moves or not

okay thanks

hi 1/12 pan car experts
I'm thinking to buy a 1/12 pan car kit, I've some questions and need your advice

1) which servo ( brand/model ) recommended ?
2) some told me to use 10.5T and some says 4.5T, I'm confused...
3) which pinion gear size to use?
4) tyres grade for front & rear?
5) does these 1/12 kits break apart easily upon impact? any good kit to recommend?

apologies if my questions are silly, I'm new to rc.

many thanks all!!

1) which servo ( brand/model ) recommended ? Fitec and Savox are value for money
2) some told me to use 10.5T and some says 4.5T, I'm confused...
I think most of us are running 5.0T and below
3) which pinion gear size to use?
Depends
4) tyres grade for front & rear?
Depends
5) does these 1/12 kits break apart easily upon impact? any good kit to recommend?
Not really.. Look for the brand you like and most important have good parts support. All the cars are similarly good.

Best is take a trip down to Raceworks and talk to guys there.

Where can I get Lexan Sheet?

can try shops that sell RC heli or planes?

Hi all,

Did a search on the web. but seem like in singapore this hobby is cooling down, search result is either old thread or forum that no longer active or exist.

Thats bring me here to my first post here.

I am new to RC world. I wish to know more before I commit myself in this hobby. Have a few question, hope someone can show some pointer.

1.How much is it to start off for a decent drift RC car like yokomo or tamiya?
2.Any maintaince cost and approximately how much. (etc. changing rubber and other common wear & tear parts)
3.If I got yokomo, will I belimited to getting ypkomo parts later on? or I can mix different brand (parts) together.
4.Cost of a chasis that has headlight & brake lights (funtional).

Thanks for reading, please bear with me as a newbie.

I'm also quite new. Well I don't think RC drifting is dying. Still healthy to me. There are several comps locally every year. Then ppl from here goes regional for some coms. You may go youtube and search singapore rc drift.
Here are my 2 cents.

1. DECENT...is subjective. I belong to the group that believes that one should get the best he can afford. All in all you will be looking at $700+ to start. No point get $400 kit then every few months need to upgrade right? Or buy cheap Ni-Cd batts that last only 15mins compared to Li-po which last 45mins and gives much more punch. Ni-Cd abt $20 and Li-po starts $50 all depending on capacity.
Only item you may cut is the TX/RX aka controller or the ESC/Motor combo. The later is self explainory. TX/RX will not affect too much for a beginner Why? bcos better contollers gives u micro adjustments, more sensitive, fast response etc...beginner focus on technique 1st.

2. Maintainence cost is minimum to me. But sure have normal wear and tear. Drift tyres are abt $20 for 4. Last u super long. Breakage should be go straight into a drain or wall will vary depending what is broken. Carbon Fibre shock towers abt $60++ Plastic eqivalent $30 also have Alu $50 something like that.

3. If u know Yokomo, u will know AutoDrift. They are good ppl there so rest assured. But do ur homework...know what u want and what u getting. No and chasis can use any parts so long as it fits. Only point to note is some race require certain parts to be by a certain manufacurer. Can mod till u song! See Overdose, eagle racing RC are some example also suzuki racing rc.

4.The light do not belong to the chasis. Its on the shell aka cover. Taking Yokomo as guide. Shell replica of real D1 cars is abt $60. Then u need to get light buckets, this is paste onto car where the light area in not painted. These buckets have holes, the LED goes in. Buckets have front and rear abt $20+ each set F/R. The if u want the BIG BIG spoiler....aka GT Wing also abt $10+ then got exhaust wing mirrors wipers etc...it depends how detail u want and want to spend. Finally the LED lights itself. Thats abt $30. Just take the blinking will do. The kit that really works like the real car too much wires for me and not so blink lor....that cost more too.

There all text for u. Any more?

Thanks for the pointer

I would like to know is there any meetup where ppl can discuss and share about thier RC setup & notes.

For beginner :
Should i get a RTR (out from box) car or assemable one myself.
Should I buy online or local shop.
RTR set can adjust camber, damping force etc.?
How long can 1 batt last from full charge. (RC heli only 7-9minutes which is very short for my liking).

So many question dont know where to start, and the more I read online the more I think I dont comprehen.

PS. must there be 2 "poles" sticking out of the car on the front bounet and rear windscreen.

Ok end of part 1

Part 2
Another point to note most RTR kits available locally are still FM tx/rx. Try to get one that is 2.4GHz instead.