4 pieces at one 3/4 inch long, one on each side of the front and back.

Blue is lighter because the red dye most paint companies use is much heavier. It is made from a rare mineral that comes from the Amazon river plain and is transported in from the local villagers. Only use sand that is AE approved, they have a list on their website. I run very high pressure in the back rims...30-35 psi for groove tracks and 15-20psi for low-bite tracks. consult the AE tire pressure chart.

+1

Also, in my experience I found it good to put pieces of electrical tape down the sides of the body to prevent chassis rub on your nice new paint job. Then put your velcro on top of that. I've found that velcro when stuck to paint will sometimes rip off paint. Electrical tape comes off of the paint clean, without any damange. You can also use Electrical tape in other high contact areas to protect the paint. Just a little will be fine (one layer). You don't want to start adding a ton of weight to your ride.

And the point of having a narrow chassis again? Sure hope you plan on mounting bodies with the posts provided.

I use marine goop. I put some on my finger and run and thin coat on the inside whereever the body makes contact. It adds some strength and it is flexible. It will give you a smooth surface and the velcro will stick nicely. My esc rub on the inside of my body also, so I coated the area above it.

Hideeho
I run 3 pieces of velcro on each side. If you dont wreck a lot &/or have good velcro you can get away w/ 2.

For lining the body, the best stuff I have found is aluminum air conditioner tape. It's light & virtually impervious to abrassion (which makes it perfect as a body liner). It can also be used to build effective heat shields in any shape, size, or location (not as big of a deal w/ electrics, but a shield between the exaust & engine & gas tank will pay great dividends I'm told). Just make sure you check the price at the local hardware store. Amain has small rolls for $5-$8, but I paid $10 for a roll that is probably 10X the size @ lowes.

I don't like the 22's Design but I like the look. the really narrow chassis to me is really different. I like different


I also like to Modify. I'm not really happy with running a stock kit setup.

The main reason's I wanted to do this in the first place was to get the weight closer to the center of the chassis.

I am planning on running my ESC at the back of the battery compartment, Battery in the middle and the reciever on top of the servo with my transponder in the front triangle..... well what ever that shape will end up to be.


Possibly going to a shorty pack in the future, as well I am going to be testing different weights of buggy. Starting from the lightest then going up to almost 5 pounds.

this while testing spring and oil rates as discussed in the 'Tuning with Camber links" thread

Fair enough.

deadman, I noticed you changed the kickup. What was your reasoning behind that? I've been contemplating doing shimming in the front to adjust the rake. I think that's one of the highest impact differences between the major manufacturers cars.

Wow, finally put some carbon front arms on, what a difference it made. My track is a indoor medium traction track and with the carbon arms i noticed i felt a lot more conected to my car, actually noticed an immediate improvement in lap times.

Actually it's stock for kickup. I had the new chassis not at the same angle due to the Front mounting posts being higher than the rest of the chassis and it skewing the angle of the chassis relative to the Old chassis. But I am going to look and see when I have them apart if the T4 has less Rake than the B4 chassis. Could not find much info on that but I have an ok angle gauge so I'll have a look


Now on that now I have been thinking about changing Rake on the buggy but i was going to look into how much i could actually change it when I swapped the Chassis out just to experiment with angles and what it actually does without changing anything else.

sup fellas, Whats a good steering servo for the b4.1?

Sup...There are way too many to list, but I run the Futaba BLS451. I have never ran a servo that was not made by a radio manufacturer, as they can be a little "different" and noisy.

I use this servo. very fast and strong.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...servo-ORI68001

...Mother of god...