I'm sure it will not take long, the DE wheels must be thicker, or smaller inside as they hit my 8mm mod so have to re do that now, and I'm now working on the MIP shocks, had them in rebound but it made the rear "buck", like a horse, so changing them to bypass and try that, I was really happy with the shock setup before, so hope I'm not going backwards with shocks.

Got me curious ... just measured and found my DE's to be 74mm inside. Same on the JConcepts but my Prolines are 75mm.

I have the Team Kit, the one right before the Factory Team Kit came out. I do have the chassis brace, I have all the Factory Team upgrade parts on it soo it's pretty much FT. I bought the Factory Team upgrade kit but yeah the noise happens when i'm hard on the brakes but thats it

The belt could be stretched if it has been run awhile or was overtightened early on. What positions are your belt pulleys on? If you grab the truck with your thumbs on the shock towers and try to flex it in towards the center do you see any flex (just checking to make sure that the brace is tightened down here). It is sounding like the belt may be a bit stretched tho. I have seen several report that theirs are going strong with up to a year of running but it may be different for you. I have bit over a year on mine and so far so good.

my truck is ready to go and I have to wait 2 days to run it. gonna pick up some premount 3ds on Hazard wheels. whoop whoop

de racing +3mm wheel fits perfectly fine with +8mm mod.

They fit now that I have made a new 8mm mod

The other one was a little higher, but my JC wheels were fine, just missed.

The DE wheels hit and would not turn, I don't care or anything, just sayin.

For guys running weight in the front, you could also take off your rear bumper, it's like just over 40g.

the mip shocks set up like instructions show is for faster rebound right ?

I think you will find it's for bypass, rebound as I understand it is with valves on top of piston.

It's taking me a while to get my head around it. PM me if you want my findings, I don't want any guys I race against reading them

It's bypass either way, bypasses rebound or bypasses compression.
Stack on top is faster rebound. When the shaft moves up in compression the washer stack is pushed down and closed up. When the shaft if releasing in rebound the washer stack flexes up allowing more fluid to pass by.

Opposite if the washer stack is on the bottom it allows more fluid to pass when the shaft is compressed and closed when in rebound.

Ross, I have found with all cars that I have used dual stage pistons on I need thicker oil than with standard pistons. Maybe the next time you mess with them try go up 5 or 10 wt in oil to calm the rebound down, can't hurt if your rear is bucking.

Lol, what he said ^^ Yes I went thicker oil, there sweet thanks.

There's also good info in the MIP thread, make sure you start at page one tho!!

interesting, i was thinking of it the total opposite way. i have mine with the stack on the bottom. set up like the instructions say. i would think you would want a faster rebound...

faster rebound if you're on a rough bumpy surface.

I can't think of any reason to speed up the compression unless it is a real bypass that is fast in the beginning and gets progressively slower (stiffer) as the shaft moves up through its stroke.