My Integy nut driver fits fine..

Buy a bottoming tap, they have no taper.

Neither Xcelites, nor my RPM wrench fit.

has anyone tried the setscrew mod on the front caster blocks? mine seems to have alot of slop, more so than the rear, and i think doing this would make the steering seem a bit more consistent. If no one has done this, is there a reason behind it? I can see that it will weaken the hubs a bit, but not majorly. It would be easy to do aswell sine no tap is needed.

I think im going to do some experimenting tomorrow with this. do a set with 1 set screw, and another with 2. I will report back with how it turned out, and if i think its worth doing

whay don't you buy new caster blocks? they aren't as expensive like the alu hubs..

only because my car is 3 races old and had the slop from day one. my old sc10 was the same, but i didnt run it enough to care

its like 2-3* of active caster change lol

How would you possibly know how much caster change you are getting while driving the car? Not trying to be a smart a** just wondering..

My car's (B4.1x2, T4.1) all have slop. It's just a AE thing.
If I want less slop I need to buy a more expensive car/truck... but mine run just fine for me and my son.

thats just a guess, but take a front wheel off and grab the top of your caster block, and move it forward and back. if your car is anything like mine, there will be a sizeable amount of play there.

i hear where your coming from with the more money, less slop thing, but im the kind of racer who likes to make whatever i run as good as i can make it, and doing this will hopefully make my car a little bit better. (probably wont notice a thing on the track, but in my mind less slop = easier setup and more consistent)

Hey all just pulled the trigger on a ft b4.1 wc I went with the losi red springs front and white rear shaved u brace and cf hubs. Gonna run a full size stick pack 4000 mah Hyperion. Just looking for any tips on weights and placement. Going to run 17.5 blinky. Thanks in advance.

well it is fairly common to see guys running 1/4 oz in each triangle front and rear and 1/2 oz under the servo arm. ballast under the tranny and 1/4- 1/2 oz next to rx. with this it will b very balanced feeling all over the track on all places

Want to know setup tip's to get max. rear traction on power for a very slick indoor clay track, surface is always really cold aswell. Trying to stay away from tyre saucing if i can...

the AE cars are sloppy, just as fact of life, but the car works, build it and race it.

things you c an try but do them one at a time and test to see if your are goin in the right direction, soften the rear suspension, add more toe in the rear, use hubs with some toe more than what is on there now, stiffen the front suspension, lower the rear or raise the front ride height a prob at like mayb 2mm at a time either way. add a little toe in on ther front a tad, shave the ubrace and use the c hub mod which will give you a little more grip back there. on ther shock tower go all the way on the inside and inside on the arm in the rear, on ther front try middle on ther tower and inside on the arm. well try these one at a time and see if you like the change and if now go back in the other direction good luck with your search for traction my friend

oops i tried to upload it, i will have to try from a different maching i think. file too large.
sorry guys

I assume I am having issues with pistons, oil and springs on my track. The car corners fine, but the lands and bumps make the car feel not very planted. Because the track has some hard landing jumps, I was thinking of going up in oil or spring. But the track is also rutted from the rain, so softer might be better for the corners. I am still diffing out down the straight. Maybe the hole shots are the issue. I can see one wheel rooster and the car hooks if i try to come out of the corner hard into the straight. I can only get to 3/4 throttle with a 10.5. Any thoughts?

Setup.
Front:
32.5 weight oil losi pink piston 3 limiters
orange losi BB spring
inside tower outside arm
camber inside inside.
0 deg toe and -1 camber
23mm ride height
AE Ribs (kit tires)

rear
27.5 oil 2 limiters losi pink piston
yellow losi BB spring
middle hub and inside camber
-1 deg camber
2 deg squat
3 deg toe in
hubs middle
C Hub
shaved brace no washers.
inside top and outside bottom shock
23mm right height
holeshot m3 kit tires.
zero deg rear hubs
worlds chassis

weights
1/4 each f/r triangle
avid rack
1/2 next to receiver near battery
rear AE ballast