Only way to really know is to measure the distance from the center of the rear inner hinge pin, to the center of the ball stud on the u-brace. Then measure from the center of the outer hinge pin, to the center of the ball stud on the hub tower. Compare the distances.

yeah, doing to home depot tomorrow for a tap and die. I think I will practice drilling and tapping on some broken carbon pieces, lol


I already did the locktite. Did it last night. not sure how well it will hold up

I am running the Yokomo 1 drgree Rear hubs and they have been fantastic. really low mounting points, Large outer bearing, zero slop.


but hard to get and pricy.

these? http://banzaihobby.com/radio-control...-carrier-0-deg

JF+

Not saying you are wrong but i would have to disagree thereshould always be alittle play when u tighten the nut on the wheel to prevent sideload bind..

Ya it reallywould be hard at all to get a insert for the hub like you said the hardest thing is finding the correct bearing.. Kinda like 1/12 pods the rh insert and the bearing goes into..

I have complained about the quality of parts, others have gone on and on about issues with quality control, but I have yet to see any response from anyone remotely affiliated with Associated on these forums as far as I know. Many of the other brands have factory drivers, employees and the like on the forums discussing issues with their cars. but AE has nowhere near the factory support as other brands.

My reaction to this is mixed. On one hand, having the manufacture taking an interest in thier products makes me feel like I can stand behind a brand and be loyal to them because chances are if I buy a 2wd buggy, I am also going to buy thier 4wd and SC trucks as well.

On the other hand I question AE customer support but in reality how many of the issues we discuss are even relevant? Everyone is jumping on the rear hub bandwagon, but i have not heard anyone describe how the slop in the rear hubs has made their buggy difficult to drive or has cost them a race and/or a spot on the podium. Shaving braces adding shims, using carbon parts... How has this improved you driving or made your driving suffer?

I would really like to know how all these changes, fixes, and mods affect your racing, or if your bashing how do the mods affect the "fun level"? Otherwise all this talk is just meaningless rambling. IMO...

I like to check in on the forums to get pertinent information, but lately it all seems to be nothing but complaining about things that may or may not even affect the performance of the B4.1 buggy...

question for those that have ran a alum. (STRC) U-brace and compared it to the AE OEM plastic U-brace.

How did it effect your handling?

I am thinking about ordering one and testing it out. It seems to come already flush to run with the C-hubs and comes with spacers to add the 2mm's back to it.
So for those who have tested it how was it?
Lose traction?
Gain traction?
traction roll easier?

This forum is sick like it has a disease. Factory people avoid it like the plague. The more pro you are.. The farther away you stay from it. Read back a few hundred pages and you will see why. Flooded with junk and crazies. Haha
Jk jk.
But seriousley....

I noticed a big difference in rear side bite while on the throttle. I'm able to get on the throttle earlier without losing rear traction. But I did notice that when I did push it hard enough to break it loose, it went with less control. Not totally out of control, just not as controllable.
I broke my second shaved u-brace and had to throw on a stock unshaved u-brace. My rear end was noticeably more loose and I had to lay off the throttle in corners.

I have the Aluminum u-brace and like it a lot. I've broke 2 shaved plastic ones now and I'm only going to run the Aluminum. The only advantage that I can see is strength and maybe a little extra weight on the rear for traction.

Yea but the 1 degree ones. I'm running 4 degrees total rear toe

brent, that's information i can use. thanks tons!

Don't practice in carbon! Carbon is very abrasive and you'll end up dulling the tap and the chance of breaking it in the aluminum will increase. If you are using 4-40 set screws you will need a #43 tap drill and a 4-40 tap. Also, use a lubricant when tapping the hubs.

I went with 2 set screws.

About the only problem I had with the aluminum U brace is I managed to snap off a ball stud flush with the surface. Its kind of a buggar to get back out. It was flush with the bottom and flush with the top and thread locked in place. Handling wise, I think it was more sensitive to the roll center adjustment I make.

I have started using a longer ball stud in the rear for this very reason. That way I can get a pliers on the extra thread that is hanging out the bottom.

that looks like a very nice job. I will be doing mine today if i have time. When I went from the B44 rear hubs to the alum A hubs. I could feel it was off. Kinda hard to describe, it just didnt feel right and more inconsistent to me.