Go-Tech Engines Thread
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iTrader: (11)
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 629
I'm mostly concerned about the O.D.! On AMain, it says that the O.D. of the Go front bearing is 18.6mm. I've read that the Nova front bearing fit the Go engines from a few years ago and was wondering if this was true with the newer mills. It's seems odd that Go would use a non standard O.D.! I've never actually mic'ed a Nova bearing to see if it had a full 19mm diameter. I might have to pull apart the Plus 4 to check.
Thanks!
Thanks!
I'm mostly concerned about the O.D.! On AMain, it says that the O.D. of the Go front bearing is 18.6mm. I've read that the Nova front bearing fit the Go engines from a few years ago and was wondering if this was true with the newer mills. It's seems odd that Go would use a non standard O.D.! I've never actually mic'ed a Nova bearing to see if it had a full 19mm diameter. I might have to pull apart the Plus 4 to check.
Thanks!
Thanks!
This subject came up couple of pages back, either on here or the other GO forum.
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2
Can someone tell me the best temperature when you break in a new engine ?
I speak for the new GO engine, the GO GXII-5RHO.
It uses the 8.0 venturi out of the box. Should I put the 6.5 venturi ?
Or break in the engine with the 8.0 and then change it to 6.5 ?
I speak for the new GO engine, the GO GXII-5RHO.
It uses the 8.0 venturi out of the box. Should I put the 6.5 venturi ?
Or break in the engine with the 8.0 and then change it to 6.5 ?
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iTrader: (11)
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 629
Preheat engine to 210 to 220. Start engine and keep temps over 220. Anywhere fron 210 to 250 is safe. Just leave the 8mm in for now.
Tech Addict
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 502
From: Surprise! No, really.
I ran the first 4 tanks through it last night, went great, not a single flameout or hiccup. I had to preheat to about 240 before it would turn over enough to start, and in the past heating up to 250 if needed has not hurt anything.
Agreed on running temp, but I try to keep it above 220 and closer to 240 during breakin to be as gentle as possible on the conrod. I either use tinfoil or my Comp Heat to cover the cooling head to keep as much heat in it as possible while running it really rich on the first several tanks.
Also agreed on 8mm venturi, easier to tune during rich breakin. Try racing the 8mm restrictor before you switch to the 6.5, I have started running it all the time that way and love it on the old 2needle carb, we'll see how it works out with this 3needle. Seems mean as always so far!
Agreed on running temp, but I try to keep it above 220 and closer to 240 during breakin to be as gentle as possible on the conrod. I either use tinfoil or my Comp Heat to cover the cooling head to keep as much heat in it as possible while running it really rich on the first several tanks.
Also agreed on 8mm venturi, easier to tune during rich breakin. Try racing the 8mm restrictor before you switch to the 6.5, I have started running it all the time that way and love it on the old 2needle carb, we'll see how it works out with this 3needle. Seems mean as always so far!
+1 on all the above guys. That pretty much the temp range and set up we use on the run-in bench for all our customers motors (220 - 240 F).
After 10 - 12 tanks on the bench the motors are freeing up nicely and on inspection the rod is still a snug fit - no play. However we still recommend changing the rod around the 1.5 - 2.0 gal mark when the pinch has dissapated more, just as a peace of mind precaution. Despite the heating and TLC, the rod still takes a hammering over those first few tanks. Their inexpensive enough, so why take the risk
.
After 10 - 12 tanks on the bench the motors are freeing up nicely and on inspection the rod is still a snug fit - no play. However we still recommend changing the rod around the 1.5 - 2.0 gal mark when the pinch has dissapated more, just as a peace of mind precaution. Despite the heating and TLC, the rod still takes a hammering over those first few tanks. Their inexpensive enough, so why take the risk
.
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 93
From: Marietta/Macon, GA
So is anyone running the gt5? I am trying to decide between a new one of those or a used gx7 that was worked over by rb mods with 7 tanks through it for less than $100. That one fits my budget better of course. Which ever one I get will go on my 11 spec 808. Which would y'all go with?
So is anyone running the gt5? I am trying to decide between a new one of those or a used gx7 that was worked over by rb mods with 7 tanks through it for less than $100. That one fits my budget better of course. Which ever one I get will go on my 11 spec 808. Which would y'all go with?
Rex
I saw an RB mods 7 port run just last week and it was almost pulling wheel stands. Seemed to have heaps of bottom end but thats just my opinion.
Personally I have to say if you are in the usa Rick Brake would be one of my top choices in engine mods. He really knows wht he is doing :-)
Cheers m
Personally I have to say if you are in the usa Rick Brake would be one of my top choices in engine mods. He really knows wht he is doing :-)
Cheers m



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