Hey Craig ()..I thought about it and Saturdays race my truck was actually pretty damm good..just had eletrical problems, when it was running () it was working pretty good..I went through it today and resolved a few issuses..Dustin wasn't catching me and when it stuttered (speed controler) I let Dustin go by and stayed right behind him so my truck did work pretty good..

Good to hear.

What spacers did you use under your inner ball stud? Those are the best solution I've seen yet, but I have no idea what they are...

Oasis ran Yellow Fronts in the front, and Blue Fronts in the rear. Here is the track we ran on last night.



If somebody could teach me how to avoid hitting turnmarshals in the foot who walk onto the driving line, or avoid cars heading the wrong way on the track at full throttle, I'd never loose a race. It was fun to win last night, but it wasn't any fun to take Seth's kid off his feet to do it.

forgot

If you do choose the BK ?

You need to buy a couple shorter Ti rods.

The kits rear rod is too long for you to achieve his rear camber position...

do you guys have any problems with the ball diff losening up and how tight are you seting it i am thinking of safty wire ing my lock nut striped one of the top shafts the better i run the more shit gos rong

i cant deside between inside or out side holes on the arms outside faster insde more consistant

I think you are referring to the lock nut that is on the top shaft holding on the V2 diff? If so the lock nut should have the plastic inside the nut to prevent it from backing off. If the.nut you are using is worn, you may consider replacing it. Second thing you can do is use blue thread lock in addition to the fresh lock nut. I get the best success when using loctite by spraying the threads with motor spray to remove any.oils/grease on the threads, and not over appying the loctite. It will hold.

If you are considering using safety wire still to secure your nut.on the top shaft, I would use CA glue before that if the above method fails for you. If the CA fails I would probably considerJB WELD even before safety wire.

But just out of curiosity, how would you secure a rotating part with it? I can only imagine maybe drilling a hole through the nut, through.the shaft and twisting the wire together.

I would try the above first....

i had a castle nut and coter pin tipe of holding in mind but the blue lack tight or ac glue sounds good at the moment i get about 15min of runtime befor it gets lose

RC10Nick - Is there a standard amount of total shims to cure the wobbling diff problem?

I'd want to avoid that situation in the future so I'll definitely shim things up when I do my next rebuild.

Thanks!

We doubled my shims up. But if you email team assiciated they will give you 4 that are .5 for free in like 2-3 days.

its the diff case

Plus 1 , helps takes care of the out-drive slop issues ,,,,,,
Don't forget!
along with, add 8mm of external shock limiters all around..

I think the issue at hand here was the fact that the truck did not have the limiters and now the diff bushings are messed up.

My diff case bushings are extremely worn & coned out.

Just adding a extra .2mm shim under the sun gear took care the slop ...

Tower Hobbies lists the I.D. of the SC10 4X4 springs at .51 inches, which is obviously impossible given the size of the shock. Can someone with a dial caliper measure a SC104X4 spring and post the measurement?

Wc. I ended up cutting of 2mm in the rear camber links to get the bk setup to work. Yikes the links are expensive if you botch it! Pretty sure it will still work in the long position. I hope? Haha