its the aluminum and dirt mixing in the oil.

I just weighed the body (Flotek with two cans of paint and the number plates) and it came out to 260g, which make mine exactly 3000g race ready with the body! No, weight (see what I did there), with the body clips it will be at least 3001g.

I have not added any added weight (but added the exotek to make it heavier for outdoor, haven't had the chance to test it yet!). I think the Exotek adds about 150g +/- 10 or so. So if you run stock with a 540 can and added weight, it makes sense.

Evil, you running shock boots? Not sure about the others but I notice a big difference in how much cleaner the oil stays with them on.

I have the RTR version and my battery, esc, and motor get really hot. My motor was around 180(the other day it was 210), esc was 120 and so was the battery. The wires on the motor side were around 220 and the motor smells like burnt wires. The wires is what concerns me. I rebuilt the diffs, reoiled the bearings. I have done everything i can think of. I loosened the diff case screws and it freed up some binding. I do notice that the front wheels turn a little more freely than the back wheels with the slipper and belt removed. So I took apart the rear again and can't find anything. All the bearings feel good. Is this a sign of the stock RTR motor is going bad? Also I took apart the motor and didn't see anything. It was clean and I reoiled the bearings. It still ran hot after I did everything above. Is there anything I am missing?

i started off with the rtr and the motor runs on the hotter side to begin with. sounds like you are checking for all the right stuff. one thing to do is set the profile on soft and add a fan to the motor.

No problems with either , both perform almost the same .
Both share the same shock cartridge , pistons , cap & seal's..

Team shock has a Teflon base coating inside & out & TiZ coated shock shaft

Blue shock has no Teflon base coating , just anodize blue coating & chrome steel shock shaft.

Technically the Team shock will be smoother and have less striction .
( brings a extra plush ride & traction)

well... just got home from the track.. and all i can say is my truck felt the best it ever felt.. since replacing all the cva's and slipper hardware.. night and day difference.. found a pretty good set up i think for my home track. i will post set up later

shock boots ftw.

My night with the truck was utter fail. I qualified second after the first heat and then it went horrible wrong. Darn truck would not go straight the rest of the night. When the water comes up after the first heat, the front gets soooo planted that the rear just swings around. I had the fast guy who actually won the main drive my truck. He said my truck seemed fine but my radio was crap on a stick and he could not get a solid bead on the truck because the radio was impossible to drive. Sign............. Is it possible that the amp draw on the esc or servo would cause glitching? The servo is not a high amp draw at all. Its an airtronics 94358. It should be fine. Anyway /sadface. This truck hates me. Finished 4th in the A main with my b4 though.

I hate you...........

I did the 8mm mod "properly" last week, by using the carbon c-hubs. I used the long rear turnbuckles instead of shortening them (effectively putting the turnbuckle over the outer hole) and I love it. The rear is a little more loose, but well controllable.. I can kick out the rear when I want to slide through turns, and catch it as soon as I need to. I only use 5mm on the inside, though.

Any way to increase rear toe in?

STRC makes a hub with .5 more toe in... thats the only way.
http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...product_id=912

Thanks,

Which will tighten up the truck 19 tooth pulley in front or rear?

The 19t pulley is an overdrive so if you use the front one, the front tires will turn faster than the rears giving you understeer.
Put the overdrive pulley in the rear and you get oversteer.