RC10B4.1 FT/WC
I'm keen to try the ESC above the battery. Would like to mount it on lexan or something though.
With the ESC on the LHS and receiver on the RHS, the weight distribution is all wrong. I switched it around long ago and its perfect.
It would have been nice if this was fixed with the worlds car (Motor needs to be moved in)
With the ESC on the LHS and receiver on the RHS, the weight distribution is all wrong. I switched it around long ago and its perfect.
It would have been nice if this was fixed with the worlds car (Motor needs to be moved in)
So, as far as you can figure, how does he have this installed? Velcro on the battery strap itself? Or some fabbed shelf? Would be nice to be able to fit my ESC under the body with some more breathing room...
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-4011...ef=pd_sbs_op_1
Hideeho
I'm running the t4 chassis & am considering putting the ESC in the battery tray under the strap w/ a shorty. I'm worried about upsetting the front/rear balance though. The setup I'm running just doesn't like the full size lipo. I figure I'll give it a try eventually fully expecting to put it back on the side.
When you swap side w/the ESC & RX what do you do w/ the antena? I'm running a 3100 so it actually has a little length to it.
I'm running the t4 chassis & am considering putting the ESC in the battery tray under the strap w/ a shorty. I'm worried about upsetting the front/rear balance though. The setup I'm running just doesn't like the full size lipo. I figure I'll give it a try eventually fully expecting to put it back on the side.
When you swap side w/the ESC & RX what do you do w/ the antena? I'm running a 3100 so it actually has a little length to it.
Hideeho
To be perfectly blunt about it, I'm not one of the hot shoes @ my local track, so it works great for me! The advantage is it's much easier to control. I can place it where I want in a corner easier. The reason this is true is also why the really fast guys won't like it, everything happens slower. The rearend comes out slower so is easier to catch. When it starts to push you can see it happen & correct it before it becomes a problem. As it sits right now, the guy that the fastest lap in buggy got a 16.9 w/ his b4.1 & regularly runs mid to upper 17's. The best he could do with mine was an 18.5. I figure it has got another second in the setup, but that's about it. When I get to where I'm CONSISTANTLY turning laps 1/2 to 1 sec off the pace I will go back to the +8. Right now I'm consistantly turning high 19-20 second laps (previous to tuning last night). Previously I was ranging for 18-30 second laps with the +8.
To sum up, if your one of the fastest drivers at your track, don't bother. However, if your like me & are not hitting within .5 second every lap, it is SO WORTH IT! Just make sure to use a shorty pack mid or rear depending on taste.
To be perfectly blunt about it, I'm not one of the hot shoes @ my local track, so it works great for me! The advantage is it's much easier to control. I can place it where I want in a corner easier. The reason this is true is also why the really fast guys won't like it, everything happens slower. The rearend comes out slower so is easier to catch. When it starts to push you can see it happen & correct it before it becomes a problem. As it sits right now, the guy that the fastest lap in buggy got a 16.9 w/ his b4.1 & regularly runs mid to upper 17's. The best he could do with mine was an 18.5. I figure it has got another second in the setup, but that's about it. When I get to where I'm CONSISTANTLY turning laps 1/2 to 1 sec off the pace I will go back to the +8. Right now I'm consistantly turning high 19-20 second laps (previous to tuning last night). Previously I was ranging for 18-30 second laps with the +8.
To sum up, if your one of the fastest drivers at your track, don't bother. However, if your like me & are not hitting within .5 second every lap, it is SO WORTH IT! Just make sure to use a shorty pack mid or rear depending on taste.
I think that mounting all the electronics down the center will still be a minute change to handling.
You may increase transient response of the car in roll, but I think that benefits from the chassis just being narrower preventing the likelihood of the chassis scrapping on the ground would be a greater benefit.
You may increase transient response of the car in roll, but I think that benefits from the chassis just being narrower preventing the likelihood of the chassis scrapping on the ground would be a greater benefit.
This may sound like blasphemy, but has anyone successfully put a 1/10 car body on the B4.1? Yeah, I have the +8, but I could always switch back if needed...
What I'm thinking of is putting a rally body on the car. Think STI, Focus, Evo etc. etc.... Can this be done?
Forgive the question if it offends your buggy sensibilities, but the thought of a fully-functional RWD rally car with a great chassis and all the goodies underneath -without having to buy another car- has me all excited...
What I'm thinking of is putting a rally body on the car. Think STI, Focus, Evo etc. etc.... Can this be done?
Forgive the question if it offends your buggy sensibilities, but the thought of a fully-functional RWD rally car with a great chassis and all the goodies underneath -without having to buy another car- has me all excited...
So do I..THey also have the Black Can motor's
I have ran viper and compared to my reedy 13.5 it's like a 27t brushed motor.
I had vipers in 3 different cars. and most of the time was not keeping up with the other 13.5's (Many people can back that up here also) I have Had Viper look into and try to help me with no luck. All viper stuff was sold.
I do give them one thing though.. Profile 3 and a 13.5 in a T4.1 geared 20/84 was **&^* FAST.. Only one to back flip at the track I race at.
I had vipers in 3 different cars. and most of the time was not keeping up with the other 13.5's (Many people can back that up here also) I have Had Viper look into and try to help me with no luck. All viper stuff was sold.
I do give them one thing though.. Profile 3 and a 13.5 in a T4.1 geared 20/84 was **&^* FAST.. Only one to back flip at the track I race at.
I have a Viper VTX10 mounted on the battery strap with the same insanity tape that Wildcat was showing earlier. The main reason I did it was because I am running an RCRD aluminum chassis and they don't leave a great deal of room on the sides for electronics and they are sort of unprotected. Works like a charm and isn't going anywhere.
brent - interesting that the truck was **&^* FAST.., but you had buggy concerns - seems like something in the esc set up was off.
I see a guy using a Viper 13.5 running his B4.1 in mod against factory drivers using 8.5 and 9.5 turning the same lap times. Depends on set up and driving style.
I see a guy using a Viper 13.5 running his B4.1 in mod against factory drivers using 8.5 and 9.5 turning the same lap times. Depends on set up and driving style.




