I have ran a BCE chassis on almost every car I have owned no matter what the mfg and they have always worn better and made huge improvements in the bumps. Bill takes his time and makes sure the plate is solid before it ever hits the public. It's always the little things for me like the way we dropped the steering servo down in the cutout 3-4mm which doesn't sound like much but on these little cars it's huge, just that one little change lowered the CG and gave the truggy an increased steering response over the already increased steering response from just booting up the BCE v1 before the little mod. The chassis is also stiffer on the nitro cars and holds the cb and spur mesh tighter. And then there's my favorite part. Every BCE chassis is cnc'ed out of a top quality slab of aluminum. There's no cheap chineese pot metal stamping going like with some mfg's (I'm not talking about serpent).

I remember the 1st day I drove my losi buggy with the BCE chassis it was light years ahead of the flex tuned chassis and wore better too. What really sold it for me was at the nitro challenge 2010 there was a long sweeper full of 30-50 small speed bump like bumps. It was like driving over 2x4's. I could actually pass other cars in this section and keep my buggy and truggy straight. Ever since then if BCE makes a chassis for it I bolt one up.

I even have one on my SCTE that only gets driven a hand full of times a year, only because I would rather race 1/8 scale. But the BCE on that truck it like cheating. Call me a fan boy if you like, the proof for me is on the track and that's where it strata and ends for me

Sweat ride. Now go out and get it all dirty!!!




That's the biggest smilie I have ever seen. I like it

Hey guys,

I built my car according to the instructions and they tell you to run the #4 insert in the front hinge pin block for the rear arms with the hole facing down. Now i see all of the setups including the kit setup saying to run the #4 inserts up. Which way are you guys running it?

Thanks buddy. I cant wait to run it on a prepped track.

My #4 is probably up, I usually like a little more anti squat. But it depends on the track surface. Sometimes I run it down when it gets bumpy coming out of corners. Sometimes a #6 also, which is centered of course, it doesn't matter if that one is up or down.

Yeah, Thats what i figured. I didnt know if anyone was running anti squat in 4wd. Thanks

If I had dolla bills, I would definitely drop them on the table for that very nice Serpent ride there.. woah!

+1 to the BCE chassis, yes sir plz!!

Also, if making a chassis, just like weavty1 mentioned, PLEASE take a gander at the front diff screws, the 2 on the very bottom of the case.

We have to remove the "entire" front diff case, in order to access the front diff, but IF there were cutouts of some kind, OR or different way the chassis kickup was engineered, then, those screws could be more accessible!

_

I am looking at buying the 811e buggy and wanted to know if there is any needed upgrades that are a must. Thanks.

[QUOTE=weavty1;10991445]

LOL.....to funny Weavy

Hmmmm now you make me want a BCE Frank. I was going to wait until my chassis have a good 8 months on them but now not sure I want to wait

This question has been asked a 3 dozen times in this thread, just use the search function and you'll find some suggestions.
Nothing is really a must except maybe a rear alum chassis brace, everything else is perks.

The only thing I would look at getting would be some different shock pistons, I found the kit ones too large to fit in the shock bodies and had a poor fit in general.
Most other things are either tuning options, make the buggy even more tough (it's tough already) or just bling.

The stock servo horn is a POS. It strips out after 1 run. Everything else will be fine and not 100% a must have. Things like pistons, battery straps and aluminum shock tower are cool to have. The stock shock pistons do kinda sucks though. RC Mayor makes a nice set of battery straps that make battery changes faster. I also replaced the plastic nuts on the car for stainless steel lock nuts.

Thanks for the info. For you guys that have driven other E buggies (Losi, Ae, Ect) how does this one compare? What are your likes and dislikes? If I don't buy this one I am looking at a RC8.2e. Thanks.

My buggy needed nothing ..my stock servo arm is still in and doing good I'm racing tonight so hope I didn't jinx my self and call me crazy but I like the plastic nuts most are not load bearing, only really the shock tower ones are .so i can see using steel or alum nuts there but I'm not yet . so it makes since ..it saves weight