5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
07-16-2012 | 09:15 AM
Tech Addict
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 533
From: Tustin, Ca
07-16-2012 | 10:11 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Well recently i drove my car on a ice rink and it was amazingly fun trying to not skid
I was having so much fun that the throttle was on full about 95% of the time skidding maddly. I then went to race and somewhere, something went wrong. I could get perfect revs with no load but as soon as i put it down for the start of the qualifier, it would no go. It would move about ten centimetres and it lost power. Most people said it was a diff/gearbox issue. It was. And in the rear. I have opened up both diffs/gearbox's and the front gears looked brand new when i took the diff oil out of them. But the rear ones didn't. They were chipped, worn on one side of each tooth and looking fairly dead. I could feel that i could move the smallest gears side to side but a 0.2 mm shim behind it solved that. I then put it back together thinking the problem was solved to get on with my race. Only problem was that my problem was not fixed. Do i need to buy new internal gears or is it something else entirely?
I was having so much fun that the throttle was on full about 95% of the time skidding maddly. I then went to race and somewhere, something went wrong. I could get perfect revs with no load but as soon as i put it down for the start of the qualifier, it would no go. It would move about ten centimetres and it lost power. Most people said it was a diff/gearbox issue. It was. And in the rear. I have opened up both diffs/gearbox's and the front gears looked brand new when i took the diff oil out of them. But the rear ones didn't. They were chipped, worn on one side of each tooth and looking fairly dead. I could feel that i could move the smallest gears side to side but a 0.2 mm shim behind it solved that. I then put it back together thinking the problem was solved to get on with my race. Only problem was that my problem was not fixed. Do i need to buy new internal gears or is it something else entirely?Yes , purchase a gear set for the rear and when you assemble the gears removed the smaller .2 shim used on the out drive shaft before inserting into the diff case.
Then use 2 of the larger .2 shims under the sun gear instead and assemble the rest of the gear's as instructed .....
07-16-2012 | 10:16 AM
has anyone tried the new inner hub? http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91188/
07-16-2012 | 10:18 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
What size are the shims they sent you ?
07-16-2012 | 10:19 AM
I will look when I get home. I just told them I was reading that the kits shims were causing diffs to go bad, so they sent me updated shims. I will look when I get home from work. I bought the team kit last October. So I don't have whatever they did different in the FT version.
07-16-2012 | 10:23 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
I will look when I get home. I just told them I was reading that the kits shims were causing diffs to go bad, so they sent me updated shims. I will look when I get home from work. I bought the team kit last October. So I don't have whatever they did different in the FT version.
You discard the smaller .2 shim use on the out drive and just use the new thicker shim under the sun gear ...
07-16-2012 | 10:29 AM
ok, sounds good. I dont actually have any diff issues yet, but might as well nip it in the bud. Have you noticed if your belt has stretched a bunch? I noticed my tensioners are both in 1 now. Used to be 3.
07-16-2012 | 10:38 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
When the belt gets to long the truck will throw it off the ft pulley .
When that starts happening replace the belt ....
07-16-2012 | 10:50 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 447
From: Chicago
Snafu,
Real simple questions here and you have probably checked a 1000 times on them.
Is the idler gear and main diff installed in the correct direction? Both have a ridge and I am wondering if the idler were put in with the ridge on the slipper side would it cause a bind when things get tightened.
Second question is on the thrust washers and bearings. You said this is for both the V2 C-Diff and factory slipper. Is there any wear on the outside of the case where the thrust assembly goes that looks like it would be caused by the inner washer rubbing? If so the stepped thrust spacer or the blue spacer included with the c-diff may be too thin or worn in some odd way. Just to make sure the c-diff is installed correctly here is the link.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10600508-post878.html
Last is the belt pulley. I am running the STRC aluminum pulleys and have noticed on the original AE slipper, v1 C-Diff and v2 c-diff that it will rub slightly on the inner slipper hub. There is actually a ring worn around the inside of the slipper hub where the pulley has worn off the anodizing. I have not noticed the problem when I run the VTS Slipper so have chalked it up to tolerances being a bit different between the systems. In any case, the pulley does not bind in my rig so much as it just slightly rub but perhaps yours is a bit different.
Good luck on this!
Jason
Real simple questions here and you have probably checked a 1000 times on them.
Is the idler gear and main diff installed in the correct direction? Both have a ridge and I am wondering if the idler were put in with the ridge on the slipper side would it cause a bind when things get tightened.
Second question is on the thrust washers and bearings. You said this is for both the V2 C-Diff and factory slipper. Is there any wear on the outside of the case where the thrust assembly goes that looks like it would be caused by the inner washer rubbing? If so the stepped thrust spacer or the blue spacer included with the c-diff may be too thin or worn in some odd way. Just to make sure the c-diff is installed correctly here is the link.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10600508-post878.html
Last is the belt pulley. I am running the STRC aluminum pulleys and have noticed on the original AE slipper, v1 C-Diff and v2 c-diff that it will rub slightly on the inner slipper hub. There is actually a ring worn around the inside of the slipper hub where the pulley has worn off the anodizing. I have not noticed the problem when I run the VTS Slipper so have chalked it up to tolerances being a bit different between the systems. In any case, the pulley does not bind in my rig so much as it just slightly rub but perhaps yours is a bit different.
Good luck on this!
Jason
On a side note on this, I looked at another racer's truck at the track this past weekend. His was the same as mine, tires don't spin freely once slipper spring is tightened. He was given his truck by a professional racer too, so I'm sure it was built correctly. So this may be nothing, but I'm going to keep checking stuff till I'm satisfied, like the pulley tonight.
