SC10 4x4 Thread
Back from a good day at the track, although I had quite some issues with traction rolling in the high speed sweeper at the end of the straight. Track is astro turf, so high grip. I run the FT version, setup as per the manual. 540 can, saddles, yellow rear springs in rear, no 8mm mod etc. Tires proline hole shots M3.
Any idea on where to start for reducing traction rolling? At low speed corners I have no issues, can be fairly agressive....
Any idea on where to start for reducing traction rolling? At low speed corners I have no issues, can be fairly agressive....
In the rear, less washers under the ball studs or if there are none now, shorten the camber links by changing the mounting location.
Or if the front end is where the traction roll is starting, thicker sway bar as said above.
I think adding negative camber will also reduce side bite as well, someone correct me if I'm wrong. Trade off is less straight line traction with more camber though.
Last edited by fq06; 07-12-2012 at 02:16 PM.
There is A LOT of stuff to adjust on this truck. Probably too much!
I gave up trying to figure out what does what. There are most likely 2 or 3 ways (maybe more) to achieve any given setup goal with this vehicle.
I am slowly learning NOT to take anyone else's setup advice. No 2 tracks are exactly alike, and no 2 drivers drive the same. Just pick one thing at a time to adjust, try it, be ready to change it back immediately if the desired effect is not achieved, and then try something else.
One thing I'm working on now is adding weight. A metric shyte-ton of it. I currently race on a 1/8 scale outdoor track and I think more weight is essential to compete the wind and against the heavier Losi's.
I gave up trying to figure out what does what. There are most likely 2 or 3 ways (maybe more) to achieve any given setup goal with this vehicle.
I am slowly learning NOT to take anyone else's setup advice. No 2 tracks are exactly alike, and no 2 drivers drive the same. Just pick one thing at a time to adjust, try it, be ready to change it back immediately if the desired effect is not achieved, and then try something else.
One thing I'm working on now is adding weight. A metric shyte-ton of it. I currently race on a 1/8 scale outdoor track and I think more weight is essential to compete the wind and against the heavier Losi's.
Not a good plan ....
Instead use good set-ups like those listed on www.rc10.com...
A Tip
a good set-up will always perform great on the track conditions it is meant for ..
Thus a good set-up always works and not just for someone who thinks they have a particular style....
When making changes to your set-up only change one thing and test till you are satisfied the change was good or bad before changing something else.
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 07-12-2012 at 03:18 PM.
I say go to a standard factory team setup then fine tune.
I just put 60g of ballast in front of servo. I also swapped to a 14 tooth pinion. I am ready to run. Gonna try to go down south to run on an outdoor track.
I just put 60g of ballast in front of servo. I also swapped to a 14 tooth pinion. I am ready to run. Gonna try to go down south to run on an outdoor track.
Wellll there are NO setups on rc 10 for a real dirt track they all seem to be for those Socal clay(asphalt) blue groove tracks where u guys run slicks lol.
We run on a loose dirty dusty almost 1/8 scale track and the thing is hard to get balanced.
The rear end wants to pass the front in sweepers or coming out of tight corners.
Currently started with the FT stock manual setup. running a castle 4 pole with M4 calibers.
took off both swaybars and it helped... reduced preload a lot and that helped.
after a couple of batteries the rear diff seemed to be locking up so that was it for night one.
Now digging deep to access the diff.
Is this diff a shim issue?
We run on a loose dirty dusty almost 1/8 scale track and the thing is hard to get balanced.
The rear end wants to pass the front in sweepers or coming out of tight corners.
Currently started with the FT stock manual setup. running a castle 4 pole with M4 calibers.
took off both swaybars and it helped... reduced preload a lot and that helped.
after a couple of batteries the rear diff seemed to be locking up so that was it for night one.
Now digging deep to access the diff.
Is this diff a shim issue?
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,855
From: Chicago, IL
So my SC104wd has been collecting dust for a few months. The other day I decided to dust it off and see if I can breathe some new life in it.
I noticed that my 16mm 8.2 shocks actually fit on the Sc10. All I you have to do is use the 8.2 shock holders and a washer or two for the shock end eyelet. The lenght of the front shocks is almost the same as the rears on the Sc10.
Bottom line, has anyone run the sc10 with the rc8 shocks on their car? The Losi guys around here all pretty much use 8ight shocks on their cars.
I noticed that my 16mm 8.2 shocks actually fit on the Sc10. All I you have to do is use the 8.2 shock holders and a washer or two for the shock end eyelet. The lenght of the front shocks is almost the same as the rears on the Sc10.
Bottom line, has anyone run the sc10 with the rc8 shocks on their car? The Losi guys around here all pretty much use 8ight shocks on their cars.
Setup is FT by the book setup...
Nowhere did we see the up limiters in the book but it came with lots of them.
we are not newbs have been running losi scte and slash platinum since it came out.
You can see the potential in this truck once we can get a handle on the handling...
Nowhere did we see the up limiters in the book but it came with lots of them.
we are not newbs have been running losi scte and slash platinum since it came out.
You can see the potential in this truck once we can get a handle on the handling...



5Likes
That's for sure. More than 10 ways to skin this cat (and get lost)!