Where is good place to put weight in m05? I bought lipo battery, and found my mini being 50g under weight to minimum 1250g

my car didnt steer too well. Im thinking of adding a small iron bar under the lipo battery. will that be enough?

actually what is the ideal weight distubtion in the m05 ?

Under lipo and under servo are great places for extra weight.

Looks cool...i haven't seen those xip decals around in a while

you need to check out the SJCCR thread and the Jackson NJ threads - both places run the mini's Jackson is even hosting a TCS race in a few weeks

how did you get yours so light????? mine's 120-ish grams overweight

Mine was all stock, only optional part is 3racing shocks, 3racking knuckles, 3racing steering linkage. 3racing bottom wishbone. that all.

You do realize the 1250g weight minimum is with the battery and body. It's hard to conceive of a M05 that would come out at less than 1250g ready to race.

I have a quick question for all you mini gurus.

I've fitted the following to my m05:

Tamiya 53597 Universal assembly
Tamiya 53267 TA-03 Ball diff

The ball diff instructions do not mention placing an o ring in the outdrives, should one be in there?

You don't require an o-ring when running the ball diff. Did the ball diff come with proper outdrives? They're a tiny bit different than the gear diff ones.

The car weighed like something like 1205g today, the lipo battery i had is 180g, my old nimh battery is 270g. I had to add 50g weight on it to make 1255g

that figure is full race weight, including transponder. even down to all 4 body clips

Yes the ball diff came with it's own outdrives.

They differ from the standard m05 ones by being splined as opposed to flattened off.

I've had ball diffs in other cars and the outdrives are part of the diff plates, they are more akin to standard outdrives in the TA-03 ball diff.

One outdrive has a long pin at the end which runs through the diff, out the other side and into the other outdrive. It's as if they are designed to slide left and right within the diff splines.

I once blew the brains out my M03R with a mamba max BL system, I didn't have any o-rings, the cup popped out a little and rounded out the splines on the diff. I was using 3racing CV's. I'm sure it can happen with a less powerful motor but chances are less.

Are the 3racing universals the same length as the Tamiya?

I've just tried some black tamiya o rings in the outdrive cups, pushed in as far as possible. The drive train is noticably binding, albeit slightly. Without the o rings it is very free indeed although this allows the outdrives to worryingly slide in and out of the diff, at least 2mm of movement.

I was thinking about the outdrives as used on the older version of the kit gear diff, which were also splined, but at a slightly different length than the ball diff. I'm glad the kit came with them in any case.

Yes, and they're a much better value. Just be sure to avoid the v.2 ones. I doubt anyone has any left for sale, but they were a bit hit or miss. The current v.3 ones are perfect.

Question for you guys: Who has filed out their outdrives in order to utilize plastic blades on their outdrives? Just looking for tips and anything I'll need to be wary of. I', chucking the Yeah Racing spool back into my car and I'd like to keep my axles happy.

I've been searching the net for a definitive answer and the closest I came was this.

The re-released Top Force is suppled with two ball diffs which are very similar to the TA-03 diff. It has the o rings in the outdrives.