Yes I go to OHRCR the tires seem to have plenty of grip I don't spin the tires. I just wasn't able to turn. everyone was diving right under me and I couldn't do the same

lay your front shocks down....try a different front tire....softer compound...

The tires are the tires that came with my worlds kit

The kit tires are not super. Check with Clement, Friery, and Chris to find out what tires work best. I am just guessing something like the AKA Rebars will work better than Holeshots...

Oh, and tell Chris I said HI

Yeah try a different tire ...scrubs work great on hard packed..losi pink ribs also. kit tires are just o.k. ...

Hey Guys,

I was wondering if anybody knows in what order the Kyosho silver and dark yellow springs fall. Are they softer than brown or stiffer what rate are they?


Thanks
Kevin

Just throwing this out there, would love to get a good discussion going:

As a RC racing amateur, I'm just not sure I'm doing it right. I've gone through the growing pains of "upgrade-itis", I've broken just about everything once (some things twice), I've roached perfectly good tires in one day thanks to poor throttle control... but I've always let the quicker guys pass, try to help out the very few who are greener than I, and always hand out whatever parts I might have to those in need freely. Basically, I've got some etiquette but little talent.

The question is, talking about the beloved B4.1, how do you use your brakes?

For some reason, I have a terrible tendency to not brake unless absolutely necessary. I'm a decent real-world driver, I've played a million hours of Gran Turismo, and I understand racing lines. But with this little car, all of that seems to go out the window. I use drag brake to slow me down approaching a corner, because I want to avoid losing momentum, and I don't want to be an obstacle for the guy behind me (who's invariably about to pass). I feel like the acceleration throw on my gun is three inches, but the braking throw is six millimeters. There just doesn't feel like much room between a gentle deceleration and full-on stomping on the brakes. I don't want to get into an equipment debate, I'm asking about technique.

Are you tapping the brakes at certain intervals coming into a hairpin, for instance, are you somehow able to skillfully modulate your braking with a measured flick of the index finger, are you using drag brake at all, are you braking early or late (as a general rule), are you braking and turning to throw your tail out to cause a drift situation?

I've watched several races from the marshall's view, but I guess I've been too apprehensive to just stare at the other drivers' hands. It'd look a little weird. So, any insight I can get from the experienced folks in here is definitely appreciated.

Hideeho
Ok, I've a couple of suggestions. No particular order, but I would start with the front, move to the rear & the trany. When you do the adjustments, do them one at a time, & one step at a time. Also, skip around (drop 1mm height, then move the arm out, then remove a shim, etc...).

Front
Lower front ride height (don't drop it more than 2mm or so below the rear)
Move the arm out on the hub
Remove the shim on the inside ball (depending on your camber you may need to add instead)
Increase camber (.5* at a time, yes, that small of a change makes a difference, & you probably shouldn't go more than 1.5*, but results may very)
Add weight (under the steering blocks, in the front triangles, or under the top plate, not ton, just a few grams)
Lower shock oil weight
Add internal limiters to the shocks (less droop, this mainly for on power)
Adjust your toe, this is a trade off as less out (or even in) helps corner exit but more out helps turn in

Loosen the dif (don't forget to adjust the slipper to match & make sure it is smooth, if the dif is not smooth I would rebuild it before doing anything else)

Move the outside link in
Move the inside link out
Add shims to the inside (again, depending on your camber you may need to remove)
Increase camber (again .5* @ a time but maybe as much as 2*)
Remove anti-dive
Adjust you toe (I'm sorry, but I am brain farting right now & can't remember which way to go)
Increase shock oil weight
Remove internal shock limiters (this is for turn in while braking)

If you are running a boosted class, try adding some boost. More power will change the feel instantly, especially as high as you have it geared (of course watch your temps when adding boost).

Did you add the losi spring recently? Was it doing it before the change? Is there anyone else running them locally? Are they running red/yellow or red/white? I have 2 guys locally running red/white (I just mounted some red/whites earlier today, we'll see how I like them this weekend)

I just thought of an absolute 1st & 2nd thing to check! Verify your end points are adjusted correctly. You want as much turn each direction as possible w/o the servo making noise at each end. Verify your front & rear arms & steering move freely by disconnecting the lower link of the shocks. There should be virtually no resistance.

One piece of advice I would give is to not start this looking for instantly added front traction. Tuneing a car of any scale (1:1 & down) is a process of finding a BALANCE of traction. Your problem may turn out to be that you have to much rear traction rather than not enough front (not likely, but it could happen). A few weeks ago i had the opposite problem. I changed my front tires from green barcodes to green rips. I went from a very minor off power push to a major on power over steer. I went from 2nd in the previous heat to 8th in the 3rd, all because I screwed up the balance.

There are no quick fixes. You can not make 1 big change & expect it to be a magic bullet that fixes everything. You have make a small change, test, then make another small change. Document (at least mentaly) what each change does. Make a record of where your at in your setup before you start making changes so that WHEN you screw things up you can go back to a base line & start over.

a little toe out at the front should help

Not sure what track you are talking about
SRS
One Hobbies
W3

I run the same springs as you and have a bunch of turning
I did notice in one of your pics the shock mounting on the tower.
Move the shock mount on the tower to the inner hole
I also run Vector front tires SS at W3 and S at One. along with either Barcode V1 or V2 or 3Ds

what front shcok oil, limiters and pistons?
I am 30/27.5(trying 30 tomorrow) #2 piston front/rear and 2 limiters front/rear.

I have the Viper VXT10 w/13.5 motor. New to 2wd buggy. Will be running on an indoor red clay track medium-sized for indoor. Surface is fairly hard packed. Stock setup on my B4.1 worlds. What would be a good range of pinion/spur gears?

jf+, here's my two cents on braking. I'm not a big fan of drag brake. I usually set it up to help control the attitude of my buggy in the air over the jumps on the track and that's about it. With my buggy the way its setup right now, it likes to be on throttle and doesn't really appreciate hard braking in a corner. If I need to get the rear end to swing around at the end of a long straight in a hair pin turn, I will give the brakes a quick tap to transfer just a bit of weight up onto the front tires. If I pay attention to my braking around a course, I don't use the brakes much at all. I really would rather have the car rotate on its own and not need the brakes at all. As far as how much is the "quick tap" of the brakes I'm talking about....unfortunately I think that's just practice. Hope this helps.

It's a great question... different people do it differently and are still able to get about the same lap times. The below goes for both on- and off-road, 2wd and 4wd.

I'm no world champ but I've won my share of local races, but when I go to the bigger races I'm always a few tenths behind.. and I like to use brakes a lot... because I like cars that are very stable and understeer a lot as they're so much easier to drive and allow for error-free round (which by itself is enough to get you close to a podium finish in most races). Braking then becomes the only way to make my cars turn, especially in hairpins. I never knew that was the way I set up my cars up until a few years back when I traded cars with some of the faster guys, and they would just hit the outer curb in disbelief at the first corner and all cuss at my non-turning car while I would hit the apex pipe and flip the car all the time with theirs...

The really fast guys have cars that rotate so easily it's freaky. They don't use brakes much as their cars have so much front-end grip. On the other hand, not everyone can drive cars like that without clipping a cone every other lap or so. Driving a very "turning-in" car very fast and cleanly can only be achieved with a lot of practice...

... and in the end and since my local track closed and I now have two kids, I'm not getting much wheel time any more, only a couple of times a month, one of them usually being a race... I settled for my old-school style, easy to drive cars that only turn on the brakes... it costs me a few hundredths of second every turn but at least I can drive error-free rounds and I still win the odd local race. But my lap times are never the fastest... This year I'm buying a mid-motor 2wd for the winter indoor season though, to help with that turn-in thing

If I could give some advice, try to always practice with a car that's a bit overpowered and a bit oversteering for your taste... it's a good way to stretch your skills and learn to drive faster while finding your own style.

Hope this helps,
Paul

I think I saw a few guys at SRS running holeshots or a similar tread pattern.