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Old 07-04-2012 | 08:58 AM
  #17056  
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Originally Posted by tp
Hey guys,

Sorry it has taken so long, work has been so crazy! Still havent even unpacked from nationals yet.lol Here are my setups, they both were amazing! This is by far the best my truggy has ever been.

Thanks,

Taylor

Is there a big difference between 7-7-5 and 5-7-5?

Thanks for sharing your setup!
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Old 07-04-2012 | 10:49 AM
  #17057  
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Thank you Taylor for the setups.
It gives always good ideas for testing new things.
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Old 07-04-2012 | 12:04 PM
  #17058  
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Originally Posted by arm2storm
Is there a big difference between 7-7-5 and 5-7-5?

Thanks for sharing your setup!
Not a huge diffrence but yes it will change the car noticeably.
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Old 07-04-2012 | 03:25 PM
  #17059  
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Originally Posted by elex300
Im running a b2/2058. What I meant was durablity. What clutch bells are the most durable?
i use ascendancy bells. the mugens are good but they get really hot and shoe life wasnt as good.

Originally Posted by arm2storm
Is there a big difference between 7-7-5 and 5-7-5?

Thanks for sharing your setup!
775 will have more on power steering, 575 will have more off power and easier to drive. IMO start with 575... i run 7-10-7
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Old 07-04-2012 | 08:00 PM
  #17060  
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I pull my motor and electronics from my car every week for cleaning. I am afraid that eventually I may strip the motor mount. What is the best aftermarket mount so I will have a spare or will an aftermarket mount actually make the job easier????
Thanks in advance,
Alvin
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Old 07-04-2012 | 08:15 PM
  #17061  
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Originally Posted by alvinsmith75
I pull my motor and electronics from my car every week for cleaning. I am afraid that eventually I may strip the motor mount. What is the best aftermarket mount so I will have a spare or will an aftermarket mount actually make the job easier????
Thanks in advance,
Alvin
King Headz and M2C both make great mounts or you can just use a 2.5 ball head driver and take it off from the mount instead of using the chassis bottom screws. I find it quicker and easier to mount and set mesh using the ball driver from the top 4 scews. I am using the KH extended mount for almost 2 years with no problems. I never take it off using the top mount though and just remove the engine entirely from the mount using the ball driver.
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Old 07-04-2012 | 08:22 PM
  #17062  
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Originally Posted by alvinsmith75
I pull my motor and electronics from my car every week for cleaning. I am afraid that eventually I may strip the motor mount. What is the best aftermarket mount so I will have a spare or will an aftermarket mount actually make the job easier????
Thanks in advance,
Alvin
The stock mounts hold up real great. But the m2c is my only other choice of aftermarket. They done a great job with the mount spacing the 2 piece screws further making it easier to remove over the king headz.
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Old 07-04-2012 | 08:27 PM
  #17063  
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OK cool deal. I guess I'll just keep the stocker, maybe pick up a spare just for the hell of it. I am using a ball driver and removing the motor from the top and it is pretty easy, was just not sure about the threads. I also have found that I can go from 13t to 14t bells just by simply twisting the motor on the mount. Thanks for the re-assurance.
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Old 07-04-2012 | 09:01 PM
  #17064  
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Originally Posted by alvinsmith75
OK cool deal. I guess I'll just keep the stocker, maybe pick up a spare just for the hell of it. I am using a ball driver and removing the motor from the top and it is pretty easy, was just not sure about the threads. I also have found that I can go from 13t to 14t bells just by simply twisting the motor on the mount. Thanks for the re-assurance.
That destroys clutch bell bearings.
It is essential that the pinion and spur are exactly perpendicular.
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Old 07-04-2012 | 11:36 PM
  #17065  
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^IMO not really...the xrays are like that stock
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Old 07-05-2012 | 04:46 AM
  #17066  
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Originally Posted by Sideshow Bob
^IMO not really...the xrays are like that stock
Wow, that doesn't make much sense to me.
I know I used to blow clutch bearings fairly often until I started taking the time to make sure that the pinion and spur were perpendicular to each other.
My last set of ceramic bearings went 7 gallons.
Before that they were lucky to make one.
If you think about it from an engineering standpoint and the loads caused by NOT running them perpendicular it makes sense that bearing life would be affected.
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Old 07-05-2012 | 05:43 AM
  #17067  
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question? what is a ideal diff setup for a small/medium track?
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Old 07-05-2012 | 06:25 AM
  #17068  
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close. question: i set the gear mesh to the centre diff drive with the smallest amount of backlash, like 2-3 thou. im guessing with a bit of heat in them the cogs will expand slightly so tried to allow for this. also clutch bell took a heap of shims, i set with about 1-2 thou of play. sound right?
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MBX6-dsc00103.jpg   Mugen MBX6-dsc00102.jpg  
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Old 07-05-2012 | 06:43 AM
  #17069  
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Originally Posted by sykemike
question? what is a ideal diff setup for a small/medium track?
Its always safe to start with 573
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Old 07-05-2012 | 06:44 AM
  #17070  
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Originally Posted by MadRussian
Wow, that doesn't make much sense to me.
I know I used to blow clutch bearings fairly often until I started taking the time to make sure that the pinion and spur were perpendicular to each other.
My last set of ceramic bearings went 7 gallons.
Before that they were lucky to make one.
If you think about it from an engineering standpoint and the loads caused by NOT running them perpendicular it makes sense that bearing life would be affected.
im not disputing your claim, or whether it is best practice or not ive owned a 2009 and 2011 xb808 and i include the part from the new xb9's manual as well. the 808 used to run larger purpose made clutch bearings with a 16T bell but the new xb9 runs a stocker with a 13T as far as i know. My mugen bell bearings dont last any longer than my xray ones ever did.


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