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Old 07-03-2012 | 04:38 AM
  #16216  
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Originally Posted by jdeadman
Sorry got that backwards 25 in the rear and 32.5 in the front. I have T4 green springs but not the buggy ones I'll see if the LHS has a set

and thanks for the tip on the 3ds they looked pretty sweet and the only guy faster than me just put them on this week and he was on fire
The T4 rear greens are the same as the buggy rears. A mixed condition track can be a hard one to adjust to. If 80% of the track is dry, I would set my car up for dry. If its 50/50, set the car up for what is slowing you down the most. You will probably have to execute good throttle control on the slick parts. I will suggest something that no one on here will, because I like them on outdoor mixed conditions. lol. I always have a pair of Losi Silver Studs in my tire box. IMO they work great on mixed conditions with some sand. For what ever reason people only use JC tires these days. But losi silver ribs and losi silver studs work well on sandy clay. But your LHS probably only carries the JC tires. If the fast guy is using 3 D's, get those I suppose.

Last edited by Wildcat1971; 07-03-2012 at 04:59 AM.
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Old 07-03-2012 | 05:03 AM
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If you have quite a bit of dust/sand on the surface over hard packed clay you can't do much better than either Proline Bowties or Calibers. Sounds quite a bit like my track. I've tinkered with all sorts of tires and these are what I keep coming back to.
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Old 07-03-2012 | 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
The T4 rear greens are the same as the buggy rears. A mixed condition track can be a hard one to adjust to. If 80% of the track is dry, I would set my car up for dry. If its 50/50, set the car up for what is slowing you down the most. You will probably have to execute good throttle control on the slick parts. I will suggest something that no one on here will, because I like them on outdoor mixed conditions. lol. I always have a pair of Losi Silver Studs in my tire box. IMO they work great on mixed conditions with some sand. For what ever reason people only use JC tires these days. But losi silver ribs and losi silver studs work well on sandy clay. But your LHS probably only carries the JC tires. If the fast guy is using 3 D's, get those I suppose.
Hey thanks I'll do that didn't know they were the same
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Old 07-03-2012 | 07:00 AM
  #16219  
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Originally Posted by derekbsmith
I am looking at buying an LRP X20 7.5T for my b4.1. I have a lrp sxx v2 esc and a HW 60A esc as a backup. Anyone have issues with LRP motors...opinions?
Also, does Futuba Tx/Rx play well with LRP electronics? thx!
Unless you are a pro level driver 7.5 is too much motor for that car. Unless you just want to go super fast:-). I just switched to x20' s but have not got to drive with them yet. If the are as good as the x12's you should be happy. Good luck,
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Old 07-03-2012 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by derekbsmith
I am looking at buying an LRP X20 7.5T for my b4.1. I have a lrp sxx v2 esc and a HW 60A esc as a backup. Anyone have issues with LRP motors...opinions?
Also, does Futuba Tx/Rx play well with LRP electronics? thx!
I rn the LRP esc and the x12 7.5. No issues, lots of tuning options and couldn't be happier.
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Old 07-03-2012 | 07:15 AM
  #16221  
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yeah, 7.5 is a bit much, I prefer a 10.5. I can esc tune it if I need a little more power or set all timing to zero and be the same as the 13.5's that turn up the timing, its a nice overall sized motor for racing.
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Old 07-03-2012 | 09:31 AM
  #16222  
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Yeah I agree 7.5 is probably overkill. I'm running 8.5 and it's STUPID overpowered, but it's all I have for now. But I can run a pack to LVC and the motor never gets above 100 degrees.
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Old 07-03-2012 | 09:56 AM
  #16223  
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Originally Posted by jdeadman
First Off I love my b4 (the old one updated with 1 degree yokomo rear hubs and V2 shocks)

But we run on a "clay" outdoor track that is what I would say is low traction but when we is pretty medium to good traction.

The trouble I am having is when the track is starting to dry (ie 10 min after water) there are spots on the track that are high traction and spots that are low dusty traction

how on earth can you setup a car for both of those conditions.
Setup your car up the looser parts it will be easier that way..

start with 32.5 in front shocks, #2 piston, brown spring, 2 limiters. inside inside.

27.5 in rear shocks, green spring, rest same as front.

Follow wat fast guys are doing...if it still doesn't work play around with other things. I tried 3ds on an outdoor clay mix with some loose dust and dirt on top. They were not bad but a holeshot was the best. aka impacts...jc hybrids...just play with tires..its prob more then half of ur cars setup
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Old 07-03-2012 | 10:12 AM
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I am biased against proline tires lol. I have just never like them. Someone gave me some free holeshots and I am trying hard to wear them out so i can throw them away. Since they are M3, should not be long. They have always given me "ok" traction and wore out really fast. I have not tried the green compound JC tires yet, I am hoping they have good bite and last 3x as long as proline tires. Once, I ran a set of holeshots on a clay with sand track and they were toast after 1 race day, they went bald down the middle. I could use Losi silver Studs for 4 months and they always felt more predictable to me.
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Old 07-03-2012 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I am biased against proline tires lol. I have just never like them. Someone gave me some free holeshots and I am trying hard to wear them out so i can throw them away. Since they are M3, should not be long. They have always given me "ok" traction and wore out really fast. I have not tried the green compound JC tires yet, I am hoping they have good bite and last 3x as long as proline tires. Once, I ran a set of holeshots on a clay with sand track and they were toast after 1 race day, they went bald down the middle. I could use Losi silver Studs for 4 months and they always felt more predictable to me.
Just saying...green compound will wear out just as fast if not faster then the m3 compound..m3 is considered soft and green is super soft...holeshots have been known to wear out quickly but offer good traction almost everywhere you go...on a set of tires i try to get around 10-15 packs on them before i throw them away...and on any dry track, any tire with pin will be toast after a day...
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Old 07-03-2012 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by B.A. Racer
Just saying...green compound will wear out just as fast if not faster then the m3 compound..m3 is considered soft and green is super soft...holeshots have been known to wear out quickly but offer good traction almost everywhere you go...on a set of tires i try to get around 10-15 packs on them before i throw them away...and on any dry track, any tire with pin will be toast after a day...
Any tire but Losi silver step pins!

Not the greatest traction though.. But they last and last and last.

I think it'd be really nice if the tire mfr's released some of their popular tires in a little better-wearing compounds. Yes, the traction won't be quite as good. But wearing out a set of rears in one day, or even 5 days, is kind of dumb. Granted, it has a lot to do with how you drive, ala dumb Tom Cruise in Days of Thunder (I hate it when I reference that movie, but.. here we are). But for a ridiculously abrasive track that could be better described as soft-packed concrete instead of hard-pack clay, when it's dry, a harder compound would be a decent compromise.

Of course, the main reason they wouldn't do this is money. There are the start-up costs to provide a new product that they've brainwashed everyone into not wanting anyway ("the softer the better!"), and if folks needed to replace their tires LESS, well..

It's pretty obvious this will never happen.
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Old 07-03-2012 | 12:05 PM
  #16227  
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And the cost of tires is mainly why I dont run mod motors, lol. Tires are not cheap and I cant/want to afford to replace them every weekend. For the casual racer Losi Silver compound with give good traction and last a while. I ran a pair of new holeshots and a pair of worn silver stud on my b4 a few weeks ago, and to be honest, I preferred the Silver studs. I felt they were more consistent across the wet and dry sections of the track. Its not the "best" tire for the track I am sure, but its a club race, not nationals.
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Old 07-03-2012 | 12:07 PM
  #16228  
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Originally Posted by jf+
But for a ridiculously abrasive track that could be better described as soft-packed concrete instead of hard-pack clay, when it's dry, a harder compound would be a decent compromise.
When the track is that abrasive, nothing lives.

The local indoor track tried putting PVA (soiltac) on and turned tire wear from okay to where it would destroy a set of orange barcodes in ten minutes.
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Old 07-03-2012 | 12:12 PM
  #16229  
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the local indoor track here used to run it dry and grooved, so we ran slicks. And they lasted forever. But they didnt sell any tires, so it is now a barcode track. /miss slicks
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Old 07-03-2012 | 12:29 PM
  #16230  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
the local indoor track here used to run it dry and grooved, so we ran slicks. And they lasted forever. But they didnt sell any tires, so it is now a barcode track. /miss slicks
A lot of folks love Holeshots since they look like George Costanza's head in a couple packs.. Then they hook up great when it's dry, if you mind the throttle and DON'T STRAY from the line.

I've been noticing that Barcodes (gold, I think, they're hand-me-downs) are pretty good for when it's dry and a bit dusty. They seem to keep their tread pretty well and give decent, if not great, traction. Just have to keep an easy, steady hand on the throttle/brakes.

It's a fine line between being slow to be fast, and just plain slow. I'd love to have Maifield drive my buggy around for 3 laps just to see what's possible. Far from crushing my spirit, it would help me commit to my setup and focus on DRIVING.
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