RC10B4.1 FT/WC
06-12-2012 | 09:01 AM
Those bleeder screws are a biznitch. I was about to Hulk Smash them when I figured out a simple, effective method. Grab your .050 allen wrench (smallest one with the kit) and stick it in the bleeder screw hole. that should fit, but if it doesn't, tap tap tap it in. Twist the .050 around in there to try to auger out the hole a bit. Now try to install the bleeder screw.
If it *still* doesn't want to go in, go at the bleeder hole with the 1/16 allen. Don't twist it around, just tap it in and pull it out. You don't want to make the hole *too* big. Now you should be able to get the bleeder screw in no problem.
This method works, it's quick, and it's safer than Dremeling.
AND, most importantly, the bleeder cap WON'T LEAK.
If it *still* doesn't want to go in, go at the bleeder hole with the 1/16 allen. Don't twist it around, just tap it in and pull it out. You don't want to make the hole *too* big. Now you should be able to get the bleeder screw in no problem.
This method works, it's quick, and it's safer than Dremeling.
AND, most importantly, the bleeder cap WON'T LEAK.
06-12-2012 | 09:07 AM
I think the number one mistake people make is putting in more motor than they need. Kind of like driving a ferrari to work in rush hour traffic every day. Feeds the ego but has liitle practical use.
13.5 on a technical track is plenty. If you find you need more speed, which i doubt, you can adjust gearing accordingly. Sure a 10.5 or faster may be fun on some tracks, but if you are looking to race and be competitive my two cents says go with what you can handle, and what the track requires, nothing more.
13.5 on a technical track is plenty. If you find you need more speed, which i doubt, you can adjust gearing accordingly. Sure a 10.5 or faster may be fun on some tracks, but if you are looking to race and be competitive my two cents says go with what you can handle, and what the track requires, nothing more.
06-12-2012 | 09:21 AM
Yours is a good method, too. Probably easier. Mine involves pounding a rod into a hole and reaming it until it's big enough to screw. I guess it's all personal preference.
06-12-2012 | 09:42 AM
06-12-2012 | 11:49 AM
I do this as well. It's easier to get it started, it seals better, and I find they last longer before the threads get stretched out and the cap needs to be replaced.
06-12-2012 | 03:56 PM
Have not stripped mine yet.
06-12-2012 | 04:09 PM
06-12-2012 | 04:11 PM
06-12-2012 | 04:13 PM
Long Link A long link gives a lot of body roll in turns.
It feels as is the body is willing to keep on rolling, until in the end, the springs prevent it from rolling any further.
The car has more grip in corners, especially the middle part.
Short Link A short link makes that the body doesn't roll as far, its tendency to roll drops off as it rolls.
This can stabilize a car in bumps and curved sections.
It feels as is the car generates a little less grip.
Parallel Link
(Parallel to lower arm) A parallel link gives a little more roll than an angled one.
It feels very smooth, and consistent as the body rolls in turns.
Angled Link
(Distance between arm and link is smaller on the inside) An angled link makes it feel as if the car has a tendency to center itself (level, no roll), other than through the springs or anti-roll bar.
It gives a little more initial grip, steering into corners. It makes it very easy to 'throw' the car.
The body rolls a little less than with parallel links.
On bumpy tracks, it could be possible to use softer settings for damping and spring rate than with parallel links, without destabilising the car.
Beware that you should always keep an eye on the balance of your car; large differences in roll center front vs. rear will make the car feel less consistent and less confidence-inspiring.
Longer Front The front rolls and dives more in turns.
Lots of steering in mid-corner.
Could make the car hook.
Shorter Front The front feels very stable.
A little more turn-in, but less steering in mid-corner.
Longer Rear More rear traction in turns, and coming out of them.
Rear end slide is very progressive, not unpredictable at all.
Make sure that there's enough rear camber though, or you could lose rear traction in turns.
Shorter Rear The rear feels very stable. It breaks out later and more suddenly, but if it does, the slide is more controllable.
It makes the front dive a little more, which results in more steering, especially when braking.
More Angled Front Turn-in is very agressive.
The front feels as if it wants to roll less than the rear.
More Angled Rear The rear end is rock-solid while turning in. It feels very confident.
06-12-2012 | 04:17 PM
That what I thought it was over a month from one race night to another and when I went from one to two washers I had alittle more of a push I noticed,I'm going back to one washer