What is "boosted"? Sorry, I'm just getting into this 1/10 buggy racing stuff.

Looking for a little help---

I'm building a Worlds Car and having some trouble with the shocks. It's been a about 15 years since I've built a car so bear with me.

First off, how the heck do I get the shock cap bleeder screws in? I can't seem to get them threaded.

Secondly, the springs seem to rub against the treaded part of the shock body. Is that normal? The rear springs also seem to be too long and feel a bit stiff.

I've tried to build the the shocks 2x tonight and gave up frustrated. Help a brother out with some wisdom, please!

Are you using the tools that came with the kit? If so, you're gonna have a hard time getting that screw started. Anyways, You have to push and turn at the same time to get it threaded.

As far as the shocks go, I know this may sound weird but, double check the way they are installed against how they look in the manual. I've seen people install them incorrectly a few times.

Thanks. I just watched a youtube video on how to build them and the guy sure did make it look easy. I'll disassemble everything tomorrow and try it again. I think this is a good excuse to go and buy some new tools.

Thanks for the suggestion but it has to be ROAR legal and from the looks of things, I do not believe brushlesshobbies.com ships to AUS at the moment.

Boost is timing supplied by the ESC as opposed to turning the end bell on the motor. Now this is just my two cents but I'm not a real big fan of it if its not needed. I would go with the 10.5 and tune the thing so its drivable with the ESC. I think you will find that it will run cooler and you will be able to practice for longer. As I said, just my two cents.

Anyone have a direct contact to STRC, I have a broken steering rack and only need a single part and don't want to order another complete kit.

It's going on 2 weeks with multiple attempts at contacting on their site and at customer service at strc.com

Still NO REPLY...

I am not 100% sure what your trying to do, but I also have a B4 not B4.1 and I did upgrade some things.

-The outdrive bearing are 9832 10x16 mm, these fit the 9826 transmission case which required the 9818 rear chassis plate. You will also need the upgraded outdrives because they are slightly larger for the new bearings #9852. You might want to replace the entire diff if you have the gear diff #9853. The B4.1 rear chassis plate it cut out a little more because the B4.1 tranny is a little bigger due to the 10x16 mm bearings. #3977 (3/16x3/8) are standard AE bearings. Same as the from wheels and the inside rear hubs, the B4.1 has larger outside bearing in the rear hubs because the outside bearing were exploding. The upgraded rear plastic hubs are #9730 and the outside bearing are #7935. The upgraded rear shock tower is #9572 (Plastic not carbon, carbon was never upgraded.

Brushless Hobbies is roar legal and you right they only ship to the USA. Didnt know you were an aussi.

If they are running run what you brung, then get a 10.5. It wont be crazy hard to drive and does not really need boost.

I think the number one mistake people make is putting in more motor than they need. Kind of like driving a ferrari to work in rush hour traffic every day. Feeds the ego but has liitle practical use.

13.5 on a technical track is plenty. If you find you need more speed, which i doubt, you can adjust gearing accordingly. Sure a 10.5 or faster may be fun on some tracks, but if you are looking to race and be competitive my two cents says go with what you can handle, and what the track requires, nothing more.

Actually thats very true. 13.5 is plenty for a tight technical track. If your new to racing it will be plenty of motor for you.

Turnigy Nanotech shorties are back in stock at Hobby King

Wont be buying from them! I use the Avid rack and never intalled the stock rack. If you are talking about the stock rack, give me the part numbers you need, and i will mail them to you. Pm me your address.

Those bleeder screws are a biznitch. I was about to Hulk Smash them when I figured out a simple, effective method. Grab your .050 allen wrench (smallest one with the kit) and stick it in the bleeder screw hole. that should fit, but if it doesn't, tap tap tap it in. Twist the .050 around in there to try to auger out the hole a bit. Now try to install the bleeder screw.

If it *still* doesn't want to go in, go at the bleeder hole with the 1/16 allen. Don't twist it around, just tap it in and pull it out. You don't want to make the hole *too* big. Now you should be able to get the bleeder screw in no problem.

This method works, it's quick, and it's safer than Dremeling.
AND, most importantly, the bleeder cap WON'T LEAK.