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Old 06-10-2012 | 07:10 PM
  #24826  
darryl80's Avatar
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Cool

will a max amps 2s 6000mah lipo battery with the following measurements fit in a sc10 4x4?

length 144mm
width 46mm
height 25mm
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Old 06-10-2012 | 09:58 PM
  #24827  
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Default Rear a-arms

Originally Posted by fq06
Fix = new arms. RPM uses better plastic IMO but those will need to be replaced over time like the stock ones even if their not broken.
When I start getting any bind on the inner hinge pin I replace.
RPM has better fit between chassis and pin holders (or arm mount).
I also run strc holders f&r and the rear uses delrin inserts... like butta

Super fine sand paper on the chassis problem area?

With sway bars on the Rear, should both arms fall with no springs on??
Meaning: when i raise them, fall/drop independently from the other w/ no springs on?
I changed the hinge pins(were not bent), but didn't change the Rear A-Arms, because they looked fine.(Probably ran 12packs with them)

The front A-arms do fall w/out springs on(Sway bars on front), so I figured the Rear are suppose to also, I just don't remember. I just wanted to make sure, because, then I guess, I have to go back & change the rear a-arms.?.
THX
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Old 06-10-2012 | 10:06 PM
  #24828  
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Originally Posted by jpure009
With sway bars on the Rear, should both arms fall with no springs on??
Meaning: when i raise them, fall/drop independently from the other w/ no springs on?
I changed the hinge pins(were not bent), but didn't change the Rear A-Arms, because they looked fine.(Probably ran 12packs with them)

The front A-arms fall w/out springs on(Sway bars on front also), I just wanted to make sure, because, then I guess, I have to go back & change
the rear a-arms.?.
THX
Swaybars connect left and right arms together to reduce roll, if you release both tires they should both fall.
If you hold one tire, the other side will not fall. They will not fall independently of each other with sway bars connected... they will fall together without springs shocks or anything. They should move very freely, together.
The reason that they would not fall could be that there is binding in the inner hinge pin, outer pin or the nuts retaining the top of the shocks are too tight.
You may have tightened the nut too tight on the outer hinge pin.

Loosen up the nut on the shock, still tight and not dropping down? Loosen the nut on the outer pin through the hubs (both), still tight? Its gotta be the inner pin binding, time for new arms.
You can disconnect the swaybar to see if it is the left or right side that is binding.
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Old 06-10-2012 | 11:27 PM
  #24829  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
no mimic


rock & sway the truck from the rear shock tower left to right, like the illustration Craig posted earlier shows



*more bind means more force needed to sway truck back & forth, making more traction...
*less bind , easier for truck to rock & sway making less traction
IT'S NOT BIND.

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Old 06-11-2012 | 05:46 AM
  #24830  
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Ok so I ran my non FT for the second time at a local outdoor track. I cannot get the rear end under control It was so loose even with tire changes. Plus I was traction rolling on the end of the straight, where it swooped into a bank turn.

I tried putting a lighter swaybar in the rear, going down to 27.5 shock oil and moving the shocks out. I'm sure this is a common problem with the truck being so light. Any reccomendations?

Thanks!
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Old 06-11-2012 | 06:00 AM
  #24831  
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Originally Posted by jpure009
With sway bars on the Rear, should both arms fall with no springs on??
Meaning: when i raise them, fall/drop independently from the other w/ no springs on?
I changed the hinge pins(were not bent), but didn't change the Rear A-Arms, because they looked fine.(Probably ran 12packs with them)

The front A-arms do fall w/out springs on(Sway bars on front), so I figured the Rear are suppose to also, I just don't remember. I just wanted to make sure, because, then I guess, I have to go back & change the rear a-arms.?.
THX
It could also be that you are using the wrong clips that hold the sway bar in position. There are 2 different clips with a total of 4 different sizes of holes that hold the sway bars. If you are using a set that is smaller than your bar, the bar will bind and the hubs/arms will not have free movement.
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Old 06-11-2012 | 06:02 AM
  #24832  
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Default

Originally Posted by tom2tone
Ok so I ran my non FT for the second time at a local outdoor track. I cannot get the rear end under control It was so loose even with tire changes. Plus I was traction rolling on the end of the straight, where it swooped into a bank turn.
I tried putting a lighter swaybar in the rear, going down to 27.5 shock oil and moving the shocks out. I'm sure this is a common problem with the truck being so light. Any reccomendations?
Thanks!
This mod made a big improvement on mine. p581
raising the rear camber link appears to help.
Please pardon the shameful infighting following that info.... some seem to struggle with questions from newer folk trying to figure things out.
p581 http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...hread-581.html

Nice explanation
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10644834-post22094.html

Last edited by KewlToy; 06-11-2012 at 06:46 AM.
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Old 06-11-2012 | 06:02 AM
  #24833  
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Originally Posted by tom2tone
Ok so I ran my non FT for the second time at a local outdoor track. I cannot get the rear end under control It was so loose even with tire changes. Plus I was traction rolling on the end of the straight, where it swooped into a bank turn.

I tried putting a lighter swaybar in the rear, going down to 27.5 shock oil and moving the shocks out. I'm sure this is a common problem with the truck being so light. Any reccomendations?

Thanks!
+8mm rear hub mod
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Old 06-11-2012 | 06:17 AM
  #24834  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
IT'S NOT BIND.

+1
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Old 06-11-2012 | 06:36 AM
  #24835  
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Originally Posted by tom2tone
Ok so I ran my non FT for the second time at a local outdoor track. I cannot get the rear end under control It was so loose even with tire changes. Plus I was traction rolling on the end of the straight, where it swooped into a bank turn.
I tried putting a lighter swaybar in the rear, going down to 27.5 shock oil and moving the shocks out. I'm sure this is a common problem with the truck being so light. Any reccomendations?
Thanks!
This mod made a big improvement on mine. p581
raising the rear camber link appears to help.
Please pardon the shameful infighting surrounding that info....
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...hread-581.html
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Old 06-11-2012 | 06:39 AM
  #24836  
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Thumbs up

i am getting my brand new in box sc10 4x4 factory team kit truck this week sometime. i will for sure post pics as i put each step together.
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Old 06-11-2012 | 06:48 AM
  #24837  
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From: TRCR Modified Driver
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
IT'S NOT BIND.

- 1

What is it O puppy lover ?
If you know a better word than bind >tell us

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-15-2013 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 06-11-2012 | 07:08 AM
  #24838  
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From: * Sin Cal *
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Originally Posted by tom2tone
Ok so I ran my non FT for the second time at a local outdoor track. I cannot get the rear end under control It was so loose even with tire changes. Plus I was traction rolling on the end of the straight, where it swooped into a bank turn.

I tried putting a lighter swaybar in the rear, going down to 27.5 shock oil and moving the shocks out. I'm sure this is a common problem with the truck being so light. Any reccomendations?

Thanks!
Not really a common problem..but it is a 2wd so your not going to have the traction of a 4wd. Their are so many variables it's really hard to give solid fix it answers..but here's a few..
Why are you using a sway bar? On a 2wd the only time I would ever run a sway bar is on a high traction track. Just a few questions..what's your ride height set
at? How tight is your slipper..ball diff or gear diff? If gear diff are you running fluid or grease? And if fluid what wt. are you running..what tires did you change
to? You see how many different "things" can affect rear traction..having to much steering can also cause the rear to lose traction..but I would start with the sway bar..
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Old 06-11-2012 | 07:11 AM
  #24839  
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From: * Sin Cal *
Default

Originally Posted by darryl80
i am getting my brand new in box sc10 4x4 factory team kit truck this week sometime. i will for sure post pics as i put each step together.
Why? The truck has been out for quite a while..
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Old 06-11-2012 | 08:27 AM
  #24840  
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Default

Does anyone run the Tekin Pro 4 motor with the LRP SXX V2 speed control? How's the performance? Are you better off with one of the Reedy 550 motors with the LRP speed control or does the 4 pole perform well with it?

I would prefer to use the RX8 to run the Pro 4, but with the saddle pack config of the factory team truck, I'm not a big fan of having to chop up to RX8 to fit it in...

Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
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