RC10B4.1 FT/WC
05-31-2012 | 06:43 AM
05-31-2012 | 06:58 AM
05-31-2012 | 07:40 AM
Tech Addict
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 550
From: Tacoma, wa
Once I shaved the u brace , to lock in your rear end get the c hubs and put them on and place the ball stud in the center hole re correct your camber and then give it a try. If still loose dnt use a washer at the u brace and then try it. If still loose mayb go up .5 degree on yout hubs for a lil more bite. Keep me posted on your progrees if this helps man
05-31-2012 | 07:45 AM
Tech Addict
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 550
From: Tacoma, wa
Gamedog1966
Are you using the stock servo savor unit? if so make sure you glue it or if you did go back and double check and make sure that over the weekend the glue didnt "wear out" and need more.. Or if you are using the Avid assembly check the screws that thread into the alum and make sure there not loose or the metal bushing from the ackerman bar isnt wore out or not binding.. Or the steering bearing are still, Check the linkage from the servo to bellcrank arm for the proper size, some put glue in the setscrew to secure it afte they set the size, or use a 1mm alum spacer between the cups so it cant move inward, check the spindles, steering rod, and hingepins for bindness..
How is you servo? there been reports of some "wearing" out from crashs or even weird landings with no servo saver..
Also could be the shocks when was thelast time you rebuilt them? check for same length and the same rebound... even though be they were the same say at the begining of the weekend or race day doesnt mean they still good... could of blew one out last run, sucked air, or even wore out an oring
Check the shock collars also make sure there the same, a way to check this and keep them close is inscribe a mark on the collar during a rebuild, thread it all the way up the shock and then mark it then count the turn equal to each shock. this doesnt mean the front could only be the prob either cause u said it jumps weird also now..
Are you using the stock servo savor unit? if so make sure you glue it or if you did go back and double check and make sure that over the weekend the glue didnt "wear out" and need more.. Or if you are using the Avid assembly check the screws that thread into the alum and make sure there not loose or the metal bushing from the ackerman bar isnt wore out or not binding.. Or the steering bearing are still, Check the linkage from the servo to bellcrank arm for the proper size, some put glue in the setscrew to secure it afte they set the size, or use a 1mm alum spacer between the cups so it cant move inward, check the spindles, steering rod, and hingepins for bindness..
How is you servo? there been reports of some "wearing" out from crashs or even weird landings with no servo saver..
Also could be the shocks when was thelast time you rebuilt them? check for same length and the same rebound... even though be they were the same say at the begining of the weekend or race day doesnt mean they still good... could of blew one out last run, sucked air, or even wore out an oring
Check the shock collars also make sure there the same, a way to check this and keep them close is inscribe a mark on the collar during a rebuild, thread it all the way up the shock and then mark it then count the turn equal to each shock. this doesnt mean the front could only be the prob either cause u said it jumps weird also now..
I had a scre that fell out but I threadlocked it end. And took the other screw out and did the same and my shocks are good I checked them and put callipers on them after I did ride height and they are fine. I may need to check myh hinge pins and I will when I get off work or go on lunch today man thanks and ill let u know what the prob was when I pin point it bro and thanks again
05-31-2012 | 08:36 AM
05-31-2012 | 08:53 AM
Hit the new SDRC layout last night and had a blast. Setup was real close but driver needs some adjustments 
Track has the right mix of quick sections, tight turns (some off camber), and some technical jumps that make for a lot of fun and a good challenge. Cant wait for this weekends event.
Track has the right mix of quick sections, tight turns (some off camber), and some technical jumps that make for a lot of fun and a good challenge. Cant wait for this weekends event.
05-31-2012 | 08:58 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 413
From: LA, Cali
^^Really want to check out SDRC, but that's like 1.5hrs drive from LA..
So I rebuilt a complete trans. sans the ball diffs, the wobbling is complete gone.
Question, how do you extract the old bearings (4) from the old trans. case without damaging them? trying to save as much $$ as possible next time.
BTW, I think the culprits that caused the wobble were-
Motor plate- which was warped (not straight)
Sliper Hubs
Trans. case
So I rebuilt a complete trans. sans the ball diffs, the wobbling is complete gone.
Question, how do you extract the old bearings (4) from the old trans. case without damaging them? trying to save as much $$ as possible next time.
BTW, I think the culprits that caused the wobble were-
Motor plate- which was warped (not straight)
Sliper Hubs
Trans. case
05-31-2012 | 09:02 AM
Tech Addict
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 667
I think you are correct. It looks like it locks on to the existing collar so when you turn the new one the old one rotates as well. Where with the Traxxas collars just spin free. Pretty cool feature plus like you said you can use it as a ref for turns. I always scratch the paint off one of the grooves in mine so I can use it for a ref.
Tip: If you haven't already notched your small shock collars, add a notch in them to help align the adapter set screw on installation and to help it lock to the inner collar. Make sure your collars are at the same height on both shocks before notching them!
05-31-2012 | 09:11 AM
The collar adapters lock onto the existing shock collar and I use the silver screw as a reference when adjusting my car on the fly. We wanted something that was simple, inexpensive, and easy to install. Like many of you, I started testing the 12mm springs with Traxxas upper adapters, but they didn't stay concentric and they were a pain to adjust ride height. Because of this simple design, you get all of the function for almost half of the price. It all looks like one piece once it's installed.
Tip: If you haven't already notched your small shock collars, add a notch in them to help align the adapter set screw on installation and to help it lock to the inner collar. Make sure your collars are at the same height on both shocks before notching them!
Tip: If you haven't already notched your small shock collars, add a notch in them to help align the adapter set screw on installation and to help it lock to the inner collar. Make sure your collars are at the same height on both shocks before notching them!
05-31-2012 | 09:14 AM
I got told by a team driver that has big bores that even if they do release them they won't include them in the kit they will be like Kyrosho and make you buy them separate.
05-31-2012 | 09:30 AM
I cant imagine them doing it any other way, just doesnt make economic sense. I'm not sure we'll see another iteration of the B4 but even if they do launch another, I cant imagine it would be any time soon.