RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
I dont know about anyone else but i have found tire heights vary, which means i adjust my ride height often.
Pretty much an upgraded traxxas collar. I wont knock it because i have not tried them, but not what i was hoping for.
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
Not what i was expecting. So you have to loosen the set screw, adjust your threaded collars, make sure the new collar is butted up against the threaded collar, tighten it down, go drive, and repeat process to make adjustments?
I dont know about anyone else but i have found tire heights vary, which means i adjust my ride height often.
Pretty much an upgraded traxxas collar. I wont knock it because i have not tried them, but not what i was hoping for.
I dont know about anyone else but i have found tire heights vary, which means i adjust my ride height often.
Pretty much an upgraded traxxas collar. I wont knock it because i have not tried them, but not what i was hoping for.
@Soccersting
And I think the overkill 6061 aluminum is so we dont gorilla strength strip the threads on a shallow aluminum hole.
i have a prob that just popped up today at the track about a hr before we closed. i ran my buggy and noticed that it pulled to the left on the straight and when i hit a jump it jumps to the left. idk what is the prob because i ran my car all weekend and it ran great matter of fact it thought it was dialed over the past few days. help me pleasw guys
i have a prob that just popped up today at the track about a hr before we closed. i ran my buggy and noticed that it pulled to the left on the straight and when i hit a jump it jumps to the left. idk what is the prob because i ran my car all weekend and it ran great matter of fact it thought it was dialed over the past few days. help me pleasw guys 

I use the one from Racer's Edge. Dead perfect. Uses the same hardware as the normal AE plastic servo horn. Super tight, two clamping set screws (!), nice blue anodized aluminum. Get one.
I dont think the set screw seats onto the shock body, it seats onto the existing AE threaded collar. So they will still thread free. I guess you could use the set screw as a reference for turns.
@Soccersting
And I think the overkill 6061 aluminum is so we dont gorilla strength strip the threads on a shallow aluminum hole.
@Soccersting
And I think the overkill 6061 aluminum is so we dont gorilla strength strip the threads on a shallow aluminum hole.
You could always swap the bearings and check it to make sure (after checking the other stuff Mike mentioned).. pretty quick test. Also make sure you're not hogging the wheel nuts down too much (on one side). That nylock is there for a reason. Same reason wheel nuts are relatively cheap, and you should keep a few spares on hand...
I think you are correct. It looks like it locks on to the existing collar so when you turn the new one the old one rotates as well. Where with the Traxxas collars just spin free. Pretty cool feature plus like you said you can use it as a ref for turns. I always scratch the paint off one of the grooves in mine so I can use it for a ref.
You can also just drill out the 3mm thread and put a 4-40 nut on the back of the stock ball cup. That's what I did anyways. Or if you don't want to drill it out, get a pack of AE#31281. They'll screw right in and the cup will pop right on.
I dont think the set screw seats onto the shock body, it seats onto the existing AE threaded collar. So they will still thread free. I guess you could use the set screw as a reference for turns.
@Soccersting
And I think the overkill 6061 aluminum is so we dont gorilla strength strip the threads on a shallow aluminum hole.
@Soccersting
And I think the overkill 6061 aluminum is so we dont gorilla strength strip the threads on a shallow aluminum hole.
i have a prob that just popped up today at the track about a hr before we closed. i ran my buggy and noticed that it pulled to the left on the straight and when i hit a jump it jumps to the left. idk what is the prob because i ran my car all weekend and it ran great matter of fact it thought it was dialed over the past few days. help me pleasw guys 

Gamedog1966
Are you using the stock servo savor unit? if so make sure you glue it or if you did go back and double check and make sure that over the weekend the glue didnt "wear out" and need more.. Or if you are using the Avid assembly check the screws that thread into the alum and make sure there not loose or the metal bushing from the ackerman bar isnt wore out or not binding.. Or the steering bearing are still, Check the linkage from the servo to bellcrank arm for the proper size, some put glue in the setscrew to secure it afte they set the size, or use a 1mm alum spacer between the cups so it cant move inward, check the spindles, steering rod, and hingepins for bindness..
How is you servo? there been reports of some "wearing" out from crashs or even weird landings with no servo saver..
Also could be the shocks when was thelast time you rebuilt them? check for same length and the same rebound... even though be they were the same say at the begining of the weekend or race day doesnt mean they still good... could of blew one out last run, sucked air, or even wore out an oring
Check the shock collars also make sure there the same, a way to check this and keep them close is inscribe a mark on the collar during a rebuild, thread it all the way up the shock and then mark it then count the turn equal to each shock. this doesnt mean the front could only be the prob either cause u said it jumps weird also now..




