SC10 4x4 Thread
) I haven't raced it yet, just practiced. I usually run a SCTE, but I was able to pick up a used SC10 for a good price so I've been trying to get it dialed in, I like to mess with setups and try different vehicles as much as I can. Since my Losi had about peaked this was the perfect opportunity to try something else. When I do race I will definitely add what I need to get up to weight, but even then, I don't think I'll need to go up in spring rate.
Is this the kevlar belt some people are using?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Associa...item5199c4e6cc
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Associa...item5199c4e6cc
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 398
From: Hamburg
Hey guys, i'm new to this forum and bought a sc1044 about 3 weeks ago. Now i've got some questions.
First of all: you're crazy! 1500 pages is way too much, but better then in germany. In germany, we make a new thread for every little shit.
Now to the questions:
- i'm driving the v1-slipper and thought about upgrading to the center diff. Is the center diff good for a small indoor-track with carpet and relatively slow corners? (many 180 degree corners)
- which tires are good for carpet? I've ran the LRP vtec overdose sc for a while, but the durability is even less then the minipins and the grip is aweful. They should be as durable as possible.
- i thought about making a stickpack-mod like some people did before. I mean moving the batterie to the center to reduce traction-roll. Can i cut out the part of the chassi which lies right of the recieverbox without stability-issues? (i'm using the FT-tuning-chassisbrace to avoid chassi-flex)
- can i move the rear-bumper more from the chassi away to the back to prevent the rear body-part from damage?
Sorry for my bad english, as you might already now: i'm german.
Greets Cody227
First of all: you're crazy! 1500 pages is way too much, but better then in germany. In germany, we make a new thread for every little shit.
Now to the questions:
- i'm driving the v1-slipper and thought about upgrading to the center diff. Is the center diff good for a small indoor-track with carpet and relatively slow corners? (many 180 degree corners)
- which tires are good for carpet? I've ran the LRP vtec overdose sc for a while, but the durability is even less then the minipins and the grip is aweful. They should be as durable as possible.
- i thought about making a stickpack-mod like some people did before. I mean moving the batterie to the center to reduce traction-roll. Can i cut out the part of the chassi which lies right of the recieverbox without stability-issues? (i'm using the FT-tuning-chassisbrace to avoid chassi-flex)
- can i move the rear-bumper more from the chassi away to the back to prevent the rear body-part from damage?
Sorry for my bad english, as you might already now: i'm german.
Greets Cody227
At this point, it would be best if they were separate threads we could link to. Every single one of your questions has been answered 10 times already. (yes, I know it's 1500pages and it's also a mess)
I just switched to saddle packs and ran my new battteries for the first time. One of the batteries is discharging significantly more than the other. Is this normal?
I have to go from memory but i think the voltages were 3.17v and 3.81v.
Is this normal or do I have a bad battery?
I have to go from memory but i think the voltages were 3.17v and 3.81v.
Is this normal or do I have a bad battery?
And if you have a weak cell and you are charging your packs without regards to the voltages seen across each cell (which usually a balance charge setting takes into account, though it may be different on other chargers), you could *potentially* overcharge one of the cells.
We had someone do this who was new to lipos. He went ahead and charged a pack he had been using for awhile (7.4V pack) without balance charging it.
His charger without that setting turned on ignored the individual voltages of each cell and just went for what was the total voltage to charge to. Well, one cell was very low, the other higher, and he ended up from what we can tell spiking that other "high" cell way up there causing a severally puffed pack. Pretty surprised it didn't just burst as we are talking stovetop popcorn size and cause a fire which considering where he was charging the pack (and not in a liposack) would have been quite expensive.
So in short, can you do it? yes, you can charge your lipos without balancing them and probably 99% have no issues. My luck though, I end up being the 1% that does.
But considering that in general the amount of time saved at least from what I have seen on my chargers is extremely minimal (especially with packs that don't have issues as when in use, the voltages should be pretty close anyway during discharge) I don't see a benefit in not balance charging the lipos.
Just my opinion, ultimately people have to make there own decisions on what they want to do.
Last edited by Cain; 05-30-2012 at 07:33 AM.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (71)
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 663
I'm never in that much of a hurry to not balance charge my cells (or I just have enough packs and charger ports, that I don't care).
At the very least I figure that by doing so allows you to identify weak/damaged cells earlier than just waiting for physical signs. I just don't see the downside of balance charging every time.
At the very least I figure that by doing so allows you to identify weak/damaged cells earlier than just waiting for physical signs. I just don't see the downside of balance charging every time.
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 398
From: Hamburg
Sorry, i didnt find something to the stickpack and rear-bumper mod, except from a few pics, but no testing for stability and so on. When it comes to the tires and the center diff, you're right.
Has anyone more information to the stick-pack or rearbumper-mod??
Greets Cody227
Has anyone more information to the stick-pack or rearbumper-mod??
Greets Cody227
Just weighed mine and I'm at 95.9oz. Not heavy, but not light either. And she's still a little dirty from her last race. I'm guessing that explains why I prefer the slightly heavier springs.
personally if you have a battery cell that is THAT different voltage wise (you sure you didn't mean 3.71v?) I would say you have a weak cell. I would carefully watch that particular cell as chances are, its no good.
Something to keep in mind, and this is based on my experiences with 1/8 electric back when 20C was considered "High" and we pushed it to the limits on cutoff voltages. If you are not balancing your packs every charge, if you do have a situation of a weaker cell, you could potentially be over discharging that poor voltage cell during use since cut-off voltage is a measurement across all cells combined, not individually. (now, that would be all cool feature on an ESC!)
And if you have a weak cell and you are charging your packs without regards to the voltages seen across each cell (which usually a balance charge setting takes into account, though it may be different on other chargers), you could *potentially* overcharge one of the cells.
We had someone do this who was new to lipos. He went ahead and charged a pack he had been using for awhile (7.4V pack) without balance charging it.
His charger without that setting turned on ignored the individual voltages of each cell and just went for what was the total voltage to charge to. Well, one cell was very low, the other higher, and he ended up from what we can tell spiking that other "high" cell way up there causing a severally puffed pack. Pretty surprised it didn't just burst as we are talking stovetop popcorn size and cause a fire which considering where he was charging the pack (and not in a liposack) would have been quite expensive.
So in short, can you do it? yes, you can charge your lipos without balancing them and probably 99% have no issues. My luck though, I end up being the 1% that does.
But considering that in general the amount of time saved at least from what I have seen on my chargers is extremely minimal (especially with packs that don't have issues as when in use, the voltages should be pretty close anyway during discharge) I don't see a benefit in not balance charging the lipos.
Just my opinion, ultimately people have to make there own decisions on what they want to do.
Something to keep in mind, and this is based on my experiences with 1/8 electric back when 20C was considered "High" and we pushed it to the limits on cutoff voltages. If you are not balancing your packs every charge, if you do have a situation of a weaker cell, you could potentially be over discharging that poor voltage cell during use since cut-off voltage is a measurement across all cells combined, not individually. (now, that would be all cool feature on an ESC!)
And if you have a weak cell and you are charging your packs without regards to the voltages seen across each cell (which usually a balance charge setting takes into account, though it may be different on other chargers), you could *potentially* overcharge one of the cells.
We had someone do this who was new to lipos. He went ahead and charged a pack he had been using for awhile (7.4V pack) without balance charging it.
His charger without that setting turned on ignored the individual voltages of each cell and just went for what was the total voltage to charge to. Well, one cell was very low, the other higher, and he ended up from what we can tell spiking that other "high" cell way up there causing a severally puffed pack. Pretty surprised it didn't just burst as we are talking stovetop popcorn size and cause a fire which considering where he was charging the pack (and not in a liposack) would have been quite expensive.
So in short, can you do it? yes, you can charge your lipos without balancing them and probably 99% have no issues. My luck though, I end up being the 1% that does.
But considering that in general the amount of time saved at least from what I have seen on my chargers is extremely minimal (especially with packs that don't have issues as when in use, the voltages should be pretty close anyway during discharge) I don't see a benefit in not balance charging the lipos.
Just my opinion, ultimately people have to make there own decisions on what they want to do.
I'm never in that much of a hurry to not balance charge my cells (or I just have enough packs and charger ports, that I don't care).
At the very least I figure that by doing so allows you to identify weak/damaged cells earlier than just waiting for physical signs. I just don't see the downside of balance charging every time.
At the very least I figure that by doing so allows you to identify weak/damaged cells earlier than just waiting for physical signs. I just don't see the downside of balance charging every time.
Just an FYI, I got word from a mod that we can't change ownership of the first page to someone else. I am hopeful though that maybe they can edit the first post (maybe once a month max or something infrequent) like they do when there are issues especially with the guy who started stuff in agreement to.
No go on changing the first page info. The owner has to do it. I'll see if the guy who owns the first page could do some changes, so if you got a link to the best info, please send me a pm with it and I see what can be done. That way, makes it easier to refer newbies to the first page for info.
If anything on the first page can be change / no longer valid, let me know too.
No go on changing the first page info. The owner has to do it. I'll see if the guy who owns the first page could do some changes, so if you got a link to the best info, please send me a pm with it and I see what can be done. That way, makes it easier to refer newbies to the first page for info.
If anything on the first page can be change / no longer valid, let me know too.
it's pointless. If he he is partially sponsored or fully sponsored by AE he can't run aftermarket products period (even if he wanted to). Only AE, JConcepts, LRP, Reedy, etc just like the pro drivers.
It's really easy to see how he gets under so many people's skin LOL.
Has anybody even seen this dude race? Video? I'd love to see.
It's really easy to see how he gets under so many people's skin LOL.
Has anybody even seen this dude race? Video? I'd love to see.
Just try to not get upset & bash others just cus someone does not endorse your favorite products ....
I use Trinity motors , use RPM arms , AVID springs ect , so PLEASE !!!
Don't post you know it all and why I don't use if you have no clue ..
Hey guys, i'm new to this forum and bought a sc1044 about 3 weeks ago. Now i've got some questions.
First of all: you're crazy! 1500 pages is way too much, but better then in germany. In germany, we make a new thread for every little shit.
Now to the questions:
- i'm driving the v1-slipper and thought about upgrading to the center diff. Is the center diff good for a small indoor-track with carpet and relatively slow corners? (many 180 degree corners)
- which tires are good for carpet? I've ran the LRP vtec overdose sc for a while, but the durability is even less then the minipins and the grip is aweful. They should be as durable as possible.
- i thought about making a stickpack-mod like some people did before. I mean moving the batterie to the center to reduce traction-roll. Can i cut out the part of the chassi which lies right of the recieverbox without stability-issues? (i'm using the FT-tuning-chassisbrace to avoid chassi-flex)
- can i move the rear-bumper more from the chassi away to the back to prevent the rear body-part from damage?
Sorry for my bad english, as you might already now: i'm german.
Greets Cody227
First of all: you're crazy! 1500 pages is way too much, but better then in germany. In germany, we make a new thread for every little shit.
Now to the questions:
- i'm driving the v1-slipper and thought about upgrading to the center diff. Is the center diff good for a small indoor-track with carpet and relatively slow corners? (many 180 degree corners)
- which tires are good for carpet? I've ran the LRP vtec overdose sc for a while, but the durability is even less then the minipins and the grip is aweful. They should be as durable as possible.
- i thought about making a stickpack-mod like some people did before. I mean moving the batterie to the center to reduce traction-roll. Can i cut out the part of the chassi which lies right of the recieverbox without stability-issues? (i'm using the FT-tuning-chassisbrace to avoid chassi-flex)
- can i move the rear-bumper more from the chassi away to the back to prevent the rear body-part from damage?
Sorry for my bad english, as you might already now: i'm german.
Greets Cody227
For the bumper, I can't think of how you could extend it without making that extension a break point.
I run T-Bone bumpers and they "slide" on the track better and the front bumper reduces the chance of a lawn dart if you land nose down compared to the stock bumpers.
The rear T-Bone bumper does stick out further and gives my body more protection. My bodies are lasting at least twice as long now.
http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/A...SC10-4x4-c330/
i need help asap! frustrated to the max right now.. just installed a pro4 tekin motor 4600kv with a sxx tc spec. before i had a lrp 4.5 550 ( motor seemed to cog when going slow then full throttle.. switched over to the tekin.. smoother feel and more torque which i like.. but now there's this windy noise (sorry for my spelling) super annoying and it never used to be like that.. i checked my mesh it seemed right.. i just bought a new pinion too last week.. i cant imagine the spur making that sound.. when i get onto the straight at full throttle the car is silent.. only when going slow around corners its super loud!!!
any help would be greatly appreciated!
thank you
any help would be greatly appreciated! thank you



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