Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree5Likes

SC10 4x4 Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-30-2012 | 12:17 AM
  #24226  
Matthew_Armeni's Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (31)
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,900
From: Temecula
Default

Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
So ready to run body and all you are at 85oz? If you are racing you should not be under 88oz.
84.8 ready to go the last time I weighed it. (no transponder or body clips though ) I haven't raced it yet, just practiced. I usually run a SCTE, but I was able to pick up a used SC10 for a good price so I've been trying to get it dialed in, I like to mess with setups and try different vehicles as much as I can. Since my Losi had about peaked this was the perfect opportunity to try something else. When I do race I will definitely add what I need to get up to weight, but even then, I don't think I'll need to go up in spring rate.
Matthew_Armeni is offline  
Old 05-30-2012 | 03:48 AM
  #24227  
Evil Genius jr.'s Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,758
From: Northern, VA
Default

Is this the kevlar belt some people are using?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Associa...item5199c4e6cc
Evil Genius jr. is offline  
Old 05-30-2012 | 04:40 AM
  #24228  
Tech Regular
 
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 398
From: Hamburg
Default

Hey guys, i'm new to this forum and bought a sc1044 about 3 weeks ago. Now i've got some questions.

First of all: you're crazy! 1500 pages is way too much, but better then in germany. In germany, we make a new thread for every little shit.

Now to the questions:

- i'm driving the v1-slipper and thought about upgrading to the center diff. Is the center diff good for a small indoor-track with carpet and relatively slow corners? (many 180 degree corners)

- which tires are good for carpet? I've ran the LRP vtec overdose sc for a while, but the durability is even less then the minipins and the grip is aweful. They should be as durable as possible.

- i thought about making a stickpack-mod like some people did before. I mean moving the batterie to the center to reduce traction-roll. Can i cut out the part of the chassi which lies right of the recieverbox without stability-issues? (i'm using the FT-tuning-chassisbrace to avoid chassi-flex)

- can i move the rear-bumper more from the chassi away to the back to prevent the rear body-part from damage?

Sorry for my bad english, as you might already now: i'm german.

Greets Cody227
Cody227 is offline  
Old 05-30-2012 | 06:58 AM
  #24229  
CoyoteSlash's Avatar
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,311
From: Portland, OR
Default

Originally Posted by Cody227
First of all: you're crazy! 1500 pages is way too much, but better then in germany. In germany, we make a new thread for every little shit.
At this point, it would be best if they were separate threads we could link to. Every single one of your questions has been answered 10 times already. (yes, I know it's 1500pages and it's also a mess)
CoyoteSlash is offline  
Old 05-30-2012 | 07:04 AM
  #24230  
samuelsonmark71's Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,476
Default

Search function works incredibly well (found all the info I could about what I needed and ask questions about what wasn't posted) It really bugs people some times if others don't do a little HW
samuelsonmark71 is offline  
Old 05-30-2012 | 07:21 AM
  #24231  
Cain's Avatar
Tech Legend
iTrader: (304)
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 35,029
From: West Fargo, North Dakota
Default

Originally Posted by 1BlueTaco
I just switched to saddle packs and ran my new battteries for the first time. One of the batteries is discharging significantly more than the other. Is this normal?

I have to go from memory but i think the voltages were 3.17v and 3.81v.

Is this normal or do I have a bad battery?
personally if you have a battery cell that is THAT different voltage wise (you sure you didn't mean 3.71v?) I would say you have a weak cell. I would carefully watch that particular cell as chances are, its no good.

Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Yeah, I promise ya' you won't notice a difference unless
1. they are poor packs
2. you time the runs to the second.
(Will only possibly noticeable after charge and run number 5+)

If that makes sense.
Something to keep in mind, and this is based on my experiences with 1/8 electric back when 20C was considered "High" and we pushed it to the limits on cutoff voltages. If you are not balancing your packs every charge, if you do have a situation of a weaker cell, you could potentially be over discharging that poor voltage cell during use since cut-off voltage is a measurement across all cells combined, not individually. (now, that would be all cool feature on an ESC!)

And if you have a weak cell and you are charging your packs without regards to the voltages seen across each cell (which usually a balance charge setting takes into account, though it may be different on other chargers), you could *potentially* overcharge one of the cells.

We had someone do this who was new to lipos. He went ahead and charged a pack he had been using for awhile (7.4V pack) without balance charging it.

His charger without that setting turned on ignored the individual voltages of each cell and just went for what was the total voltage to charge to. Well, one cell was very low, the other higher, and he ended up from what we can tell spiking that other "high" cell way up there causing a severally puffed pack. Pretty surprised it didn't just burst as we are talking stovetop popcorn size and cause a fire which considering where he was charging the pack (and not in a liposack) would have been quite expensive.

So in short, can you do it? yes, you can charge your lipos without balancing them and probably 99% have no issues. My luck though, I end up being the 1% that does.

But considering that in general the amount of time saved at least from what I have seen on my chargers is extremely minimal (especially with packs that don't have issues as when in use, the voltages should be pretty close anyway during discharge) I don't see a benefit in not balance charging the lipos.

Just my opinion, ultimately people have to make there own decisions on what they want to do.

Last edited by Cain; 05-30-2012 at 07:33 AM.
Cain is offline  
Old 05-30-2012 | 08:00 AM
  #24232  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (71)
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 663
Default

I'm never in that much of a hurry to not balance charge my cells (or I just have enough packs and charger ports, that I don't care).

At the very least I figure that by doing so allows you to identify weak/damaged cells earlier than just waiting for physical signs. I just don't see the downside of balance charging every time.
negatv1 is offline  
Old 05-30-2012 | 08:16 AM
  #24233  
Tech Regular
 
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 398
From: Hamburg
Default

Sorry, i didnt find something to the stickpack and rear-bumper mod, except from a few pics, but no testing for stability and so on. When it comes to the tires and the center diff, you're right.

Has anyone more information to the stick-pack or rearbumper-mod??

Greets Cody227
Cody227 is offline  
Old 05-30-2012 | 08:22 AM
  #24234  
sugs's Avatar
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 802
From: Springfield, MO
Default

Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
Wow, I can't believe how stiff everyone is running their springs. What's your guy's running weight? Right now I'm like 3 oz underweight so that could have something to do about it. I'm running white fronts in the front and white rears in the rear.
Just weighed mine and I'm at 95.9oz. Not heavy, but not light either. And she's still a little dirty from her last race. I'm guessing that explains why I prefer the slightly heavier springs.
sugs is offline  
Old 05-30-2012 | 08:36 AM
  #24235  
Dano628's Avatar
Tech Regular
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 258
From: North West Jersey
Default

Originally Posted by Cain
personally if you have a battery cell that is THAT different voltage wise (you sure you didn't mean 3.71v?) I would say you have a weak cell. I would carefully watch that particular cell as chances are, its no good.



Something to keep in mind, and this is based on my experiences with 1/8 electric back when 20C was considered "High" and we pushed it to the limits on cutoff voltages. If you are not balancing your packs every charge, if you do have a situation of a weaker cell, you could potentially be over discharging that poor voltage cell during use since cut-off voltage is a measurement across all cells combined, not individually. (now, that would be all cool feature on an ESC!)

And if you have a weak cell and you are charging your packs without regards to the voltages seen across each cell (which usually a balance charge setting takes into account, though it may be different on other chargers), you could *potentially* overcharge one of the cells.

We had someone do this who was new to lipos. He went ahead and charged a pack he had been using for awhile (7.4V pack) without balance charging it.

His charger without that setting turned on ignored the individual voltages of each cell and just went for what was the total voltage to charge to. Well, one cell was very low, the other higher, and he ended up from what we can tell spiking that other "high" cell way up there causing a severally puffed pack. Pretty surprised it didn't just burst as we are talking stovetop popcorn size and cause a fire which considering where he was charging the pack (and not in a liposack) would have been quite expensive.

So in short, can you do it? yes, you can charge your lipos without balancing them and probably 99% have no issues. My luck though, I end up being the 1% that does.

But considering that in general the amount of time saved at least from what I have seen on my chargers is extremely minimal (especially with packs that don't have issues as when in use, the voltages should be pretty close anyway during discharge) I don't see a benefit in not balance charging the lipos.

Just my opinion, ultimately people have to make there own decisions on what they want to do.
Originally Posted by negatv1
I'm never in that much of a hurry to not balance charge my cells (or I just have enough packs and charger ports, that I don't care).

At the very least I figure that by doing so allows you to identify weak/damaged cells earlier than just waiting for physical signs. I just don't see the downside of balance charging every time.
+1
Dano628 is offline  
Old 05-30-2012 | 08:36 AM
  #24236  
Cain's Avatar
Tech Legend
iTrader: (304)
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 35,029
From: West Fargo, North Dakota
Default

Just an FYI, I got word from a mod that we can't change ownership of the first page to someone else. I am hopeful though that maybe they can edit the first post (maybe once a month max or something infrequent) like they do when there are issues especially with the guy who started stuff in agreement to.

No go on changing the first page info. The owner has to do it. I'll see if the guy who owns the first page could do some changes, so if you got a link to the best info, please send me a pm with it and I see what can be done. That way, makes it easier to refer newbies to the first page for info.

If anything on the first page can be change / no longer valid, let me know too.
Cain is offline  
Old 05-30-2012 | 08:44 AM
  #24237  
Wild Cherry's Avatar
Tech Legend
 
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Default

Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
it's pointless. If he he is partially sponsored or fully sponsored by AE he can't run aftermarket products period (even if he wanted to). Only AE, JConcepts, LRP, Reedy, etc just like the pro drivers.

It's really easy to see how he gets under so many people's skin LOL.

Has anybody even seen this dude race? Video? I'd love to see.



Just try to not get upset & bash others just cus someone does not endorse your favorite products ....


I use Trinity motors , use RPM arms , AVID springs ect , so PLEASE !!!

Don't post you know it all and why I don't use if you have no clue ..
Wild Cherry is offline  
Old 05-30-2012 | 09:33 AM
  #24238  
fq06's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 5,646
From: Los Angeles
Default

Originally Posted by Cody227
Hey guys, i'm new to this forum and bought a sc1044 about 3 weeks ago. Now i've got some questions.

First of all: you're crazy! 1500 pages is way too much, but better then in germany. In germany, we make a new thread for every little shit.

Now to the questions:

- i'm driving the v1-slipper and thought about upgrading to the center diff. Is the center diff good for a small indoor-track with carpet and relatively slow corners? (many 180 degree corners)

- which tires are good for carpet? I've ran the LRP vtec overdose sc for a while, but the durability is even less then the minipins and the grip is aweful. They should be as durable as possible.

- i thought about making a stickpack-mod like some people did before. I mean moving the batterie to the center to reduce traction-roll. Can i cut out the part of the chassi which lies right of the recieverbox without stability-issues? (i'm using the FT-tuning-chassisbrace to avoid chassi-flex)

- can i move the rear-bumper more from the chassi away to the back to prevent the rear body-part from damage?

Sorry for my bad english, as you might already now: i'm german.

Greets Cody227
There are a couple guys running the center stick pack mod, maybe they can post a pic of their setup.

For the bumper, I can't think of how you could extend it without making that extension a break point.
I run T-Bone bumpers and they "slide" on the track better and the front bumper reduces the chance of a lawn dart if you land nose down compared to the stock bumpers.
The rear T-Bone bumper does stick out further and gives my body more protection. My bodies are lasting at least twice as long now.

http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/A...SC10-4x4-c330/
fq06 is offline  
Old 05-30-2012 | 09:36 AM
  #24239  
Tech Adept
 
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 168
From: Orlando
Default

Has anyone tried the Exotek locked rear slipper hub?
ECHOLogic is offline  
Old 05-30-2012 | 09:42 AM
  #24240  
BorackBasher's Avatar
Tech Addict
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 533
From: Tustin, Ca
Default

i need help asap! frustrated to the max right now.. just installed a pro4 tekin motor 4600kv with a sxx tc spec. before i had a lrp 4.5 550 ( motor seemed to cog when going slow then full throttle.. switched over to the tekin.. smoother feel and more torque which i like.. but now there's this windy noise (sorry for my spelling) super annoying and it never used to be like that.. i checked my mesh it seemed right.. i just bought a new pinion too last week.. i cant imagine the spur making that sound.. when i get onto the straight at full throttle the car is silent.. only when going slow around corners its super loud!!! any help would be greatly appreciated!

thank you
BorackBasher is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.