RC10B4.1 FT/WC
i just run one washer in the front and two in the rear,they are so thin you won't know the difference between one or two,i just put one on so the heck isn't slammed on the bearing
Tha carbon arms are used in high grip / high temp conditions, but plastic arms are used most of the time. If you look at the setup sheets on r10.com you can get an idea of when the team have been using them.
if you liked the brown / green setup, start with orange / white. Based on measuring actual spring rate, these are the closest and I found give a simialr handling balance but ride the bumps better.
Ray
Hey guys, I got all my stuff to put the Losi BB's on. Now I live an hour away from my regular track so I dont get much test and tune time and I have 2 big races there this weekend. My buggy was dialed last weekend with green rears and brown fronts using losi 30wf 27.5wr. I run a full stick pack on a +8 chassis. Should I be running yellow rears and orange fronts? I have white rears and red fronts to.
Ray
Hey guys, I got all my stuff to put the Losi BB's on. Now I live an hour away from my regular track so I dont get much test and tune time and I have 2 big races there this weekend. My buggy was dialed last weekend with green rears and brown fronts using losi 30wf 27.5wr. I run a full stick pack on a +8 chassis. Should I be running yellow rears and orange fronts? I have white rears and red fronts to.
If it pushes go Yellow in the rear
If you need more steering go red up front
I run red/Yellow
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
Don't believe the hype. I drove one. Still no desire to buy one. I think the nitro scene around here is full of basher hacks for the most part. What you need to do, Brent, is go race some other tracks!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,161
The B4 as most of us are running it is dramatically underweight because it was originally designed to be run with nickel batteries. So, we have to add ballast. Guess what? That ballast is above the chassis, like it or not. An aluminum chassis is the best way to increase weight where weight should be; as low as possible and as close to center as possible. ThunderbirdJunkie thinks, however, the car should be built more like a GT2 or XXX-NT (or B2/3, for that matter), with a separate front clip with the kickup built into it, rather than the DEX210 or 22 that has the kickup built into the chassis. It makes the chassis more susceptible to bending. Ask ThunderbirdJunkie's old GT about that




