RC10B4.1 FT/WC
just added avid rack and hex set
the quality is awesome, these hex are the best looking and best quality, i have used pralines and hear some negative about jc.
the only play in my steering is just the servo. So sweet.
the quality is awesome, these hex are the best looking and best quality, i have used pralines and hear some negative about jc.
the only play in my steering is just the servo. So sweet.
I'm switching to a non boosted 13.5 Fantom Apex motor this weekend for the first time. I've been running my Apex 17.5 in blinky with good success geared at 30/72. Our outdoor track is fairly good size but pretty tight. The soil is a clay sand mix that gets pretty loamy in the corners. Does anyone have a good gear combo for a 13.5 that would work good for me?
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
I know many of the pros have used a 6.5 or even a 5.5 from time to time. I ran a 7.5 and it was a handful for me. If you can control the wheel spin, and find a set up that works with that much motor then maybe.
I have always ran mod in all my cars but recently went to a 13.5 in the B4.1. I am having much more fun with the 13.5. Geared right for your track you can pretty much keep up with anyone.
The only thing I miss is the speed on the straights. Nothing beats the thrill of a mod motor with the throttle pegged down the back straight.
It also depends on your track. If it is a large track with a long straight great. But if it is a small indoor track in someones garage then I would say go for the 13.5 or even a 17.5. Geared right they can be plenty fast.
I have always ran mod in all my cars but recently went to a 13.5 in the B4.1. I am having much more fun with the 13.5. Geared right for your track you can pretty much keep up with anyone.
The only thing I miss is the speed on the straights. Nothing beats the thrill of a mod motor with the throttle pegged down the back straight.
It also depends on your track. If it is a large track with a long straight great. But if it is a small indoor track in someones garage then I would say go for the 13.5 or even a 17.5. Geared right they can be plenty fast.
Hey question for you guys, I got a gear diff I'm rebuilding what would you recommend replacing the oil with in it?
Also im pretty positive it needs to be replaced because when you spin the tires opposite directions it feels like there is nothing there... wouldn't that give me a sign it needs to be replaced.
So if I do need to replace it what should I replace it with? Got told 30,000 but just wanted to make sure that's about right.. I just have a 17.5 sensored motor..
Also when I give it throttle it like stutters then goes... But if the diff needs new oil wouldn't that be why.
Also im pretty positive it needs to be replaced because when you spin the tires opposite directions it feels like there is nothing there... wouldn't that give me a sign it needs to be replaced.
So if I do need to replace it what should I replace it with? Got told 30,000 but just wanted to make sure that's about right.. I just have a 17.5 sensored motor..
Also when I give it throttle it like stutters then goes... But if the diff needs new oil wouldn't that be why.
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
I am running a Tekin RS with a Tekin 13.5 geared 69/31. At SRS in AZ it is the perfect combo for me. It is also the gearing combo used by several others at my track. I feel it is a good set up all around. Enough punch to clear the triple without too much run up, and fast enough on the straight to keep up with just about anyone. Even in the summer heat, I stay below 150 degrees on the motor and esc, with no ventilation in the body.
With the shorty on med bight, I ran yellow fronts white rear and my car still oversteered like crazy, I threw in the full pack for tmrws racing, should be fine.
I am also running #3 pistons, the #2 even with 30 in rear, 32.5 up front was very soft with the avids....I have not drove it yet though..I will update you. I can just see myself going back to red losi 56 and throwing on yellow rears.
yes, the jc spur is sweet, its true in round and a lot nicer, a.e's are not bad though.
With the shorty on med bight, I ran yellow fronts white rear and my car still oversteered like crazy, I threw in the full pack for tmrws racing, should be fine.
I am also running #3 pistons, the #2 even with 30 in rear, 32.5 up front was very soft with the avids....I have not drove it yet though..I will update you. I can just see myself going back to red losi 56 and throwing on yellow rears.

With the shorty on med bight, I ran yellow fronts white rear and my car still oversteered like crazy, I threw in the full pack for tmrws racing, should be fine.
I am also running #3 pistons, the #2 even with 30 in rear, 32.5 up front was very soft with the avids....I have not drove it yet though..I will update you. I can just see myself going back to red losi 56 and throwing on yellow rears.

Tested out my b4.1 wc today and had problems with the turn buckle ball cups keep popping off the ball and one breaking on me. Has anyone else ran into this problem? What other good strong ball cups out there that'll work?
I always use rpm and haven't had one pop on me since (on my t4), and thats what I plan on using on my b4 wc..........




