That might be all of it. You still slip the rear end (and save the rear idler gear, which was the fatal flaw with the pin modification).

For eight bucks it's absolutely worth a shot!

Can somebody explain how this is better in Slow person Terms. My brain is still trying to accept that i no longer have a drive train like a 1/8 buggy.

it locks in the front to the slipper. Instead of having a slipper or a center diff slipping and losing power, everthing that comes motor goes directly to the front wheels. It still allows the slipper the work with the rear.
Its basically allowing you to "glue" the front to the spur and have the slipper work for the rear only.

TY! sounds interesting

Ok so how about trying out the exotek chassis for another 100 bucks?

The front slipping too much was never a problem I noticed. I always wanted a design like fastlaps that would work like an adjustable clicker so you can control brake rotation better. If I remember right (been a while from my slipper days ) I could get over brake on the front wheels and the truck would push out in the front. That is why I liked the center diff right away because to me it feels like you get more rear brakes over the front going into tight corners.

I've known both for 20+ years..and Jim is a good driver, Carlton has his moments..

Very True....but with that said I do know the players..and I'm pretty sure all of us have at one time or another put "each other" in the wall..

+1

Thank you. This is precisely why I used CA and made my clicker solid.

Look, in a past life, I used to play a lot of poker, and this is a simple value proposition:

100/8 = 12.5:1. I'll take any two cards at 12.5:1, particularly at a price tag of $8. But a house note on a flyer that (IMO) might be a marginal improvment? Yeah, think I'll pass, but if it's okay I'll take an extra order of cheese that Geo is eating. But if I can build parts...

Sure. I didn't have any aluminum handy by, so I made it out of mild steel. I need to get my hands on a couple of 3mm countersunk screws and it'll be done. I can make it a lot smaller, but I want to put the screws in first. Exactly 7mm. Even like this, there is tons less bending force on the ball stud with the larger base than when it was just the spacers. With the other screw in it, it will be like the spacer isn't even there.

I just bought a rubber washer from the hardware store and replaced the front slipper with it. Works great, plus the rubber absorbs a little bit of driveline shock

I'll bring you some..just make me one..how thick do you need?

Somewhere around .250" thick. If you really want to be a stud, find us some 3mm x 10mm or 12mm hex countersink screws.

Where do the shims need to go again?
THX

I don't think this has been asked before,
But for those using Bladders, can i get any
upgraded Bladders or just slightly thinker bladders
that hold there shape better???

I have to keep replacing them, because they get deformed
and I do use limiters, & clips and don't want to use anymore.

I found a few at the track that seem to work good, but don't
know what they are, they were light blue.
I tried them in both front shocks & they work good.

THX