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Old 05-14-2012 | 07:37 PM
  #2161  
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Oh. Didn't realize those new Inverse wheels where out for the B44 as well. They look nice though. Not sure I like the two-piece design though.
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Old 05-16-2012 | 03:43 AM
  #2162  
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I have a question about how tight the diffs are supposed to be set? I just bought a used kit and rebuilt the diffs. Before I start breaking them in I was wondering how tight you set them? Looking at the manual it says 1/8 back from being fully tight. Is this correct? I just got a little confused looking at there diagram in the manual. It starts at 0 for fully tightened then back off 1/8 but where it would be backed off at the 1/2 turn it says its 1/4:confused. Please clarify that its 1/8 turn from fully tightened.
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Old 05-16-2012 | 09:15 AM
  #2163  
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Originally Posted by Autocratic
Oh. Didn't realize those new Inverse wheels where out for the B44 as well. They look nice though. Not sure I like the two-piece design though.
Yup and just got confirmation that i have some yellow ones on the way! So i will share some pictures when they show up.

Originally Posted by elex300
I have a question about how tight the diffs are supposed to be set? I just bought a used kit and rebuilt the diffs. Before I start breaking them in I was wondering how tight you set them? Looking at the manual it says 1/8 back from being fully tight. Is this correct? I just got a little confused looking at there diagram in the manual. It starts at 0 for fully tightened then back off 1/8 but where it would be backed off at the 1/2 turn it says its 1/4:confused. Please clarify that its 1/8 turn from fully tightened.
Well i dont have a manual with the car i have, i just recently changed back to my roots of these AE cars, i would break it in somewhere in between 1/8-1/4 out and take note of how it feels before breaking it in. Also i'm sure you know that you will need to re-tighten after the balls groove/seat into the rings. Sometimes diff. tightness can be preference and you may want to run the front tighter then the rear. I cant remember what my old b44 was set at. Sorry i couldn't be more of a help, just dont let them bark. Im gonna go out on a limp here and say 1/8 out should be a close setting tho, just make sure it doesn't feel overly tight with the wheels on, would hate for it to dig into your rings to quickly and ruin em.
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Old 05-16-2012 | 09:22 AM
  #2164  
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Originally Posted by elex300
I have a question about how tight the diffs are supposed to be set? I just bought a used kit and rebuilt the diffs. Before I start breaking them in I was wondering how tight you set them? Looking at the manual it says 1/8 back from being fully tight. Is this correct? I just got a little confused looking at there diagram in the manual. It starts at 0 for fully tightened then back off 1/8 but where it would be backed off at the 1/2 turn it says its 1/4:confused. Please clarify that its 1/8 turn from fully tightened.
Popular settings is front diff backed off 1/8 of a turn from bottomed out, the rear diff set at 1/4 of a turn from bottomed out.
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Old 05-16-2012 | 09:33 AM
  #2165  
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Originally Posted by ray_munday
Wondering if anyone has had problems with the B44.1 slipper assembly being very tight when you mounted it in the car? My 44.1 built up OK, but when I tried to put on the vented hubs the unit was very tight to assemble onto the chassis and would not spin freely. I measured up the hubs and they were 5.0mm wide (standard was 4.7mm). This adds 0.6mm to the assembly and caused it to be tight.

I assumed it was just the vented hubs, but the other day a friend built his up (standard hubs) and it was also too tight. They measured up 5.0mm as well.

Anyone else come across this? Not sure if it is a batch out of tolerance or a design change? It is fixable by filing off 0.3mm from the outer end of the hubs (the end that is away from the spur gear.)

Ray
I just swapped mine in without any issues or modifications. I got my vented hubs when they first came out.

I would say something is not assembled correctly, check and make sure your bearings are in good shape, CVA's are in good shape, correct screws holding down the top slipper cover (screws not binding bearings), make sure the slipper spacers are on the correct way in the correct order, a lot of people put them on backwards.<---check that first....

There would need to be some very slight amount of tolerance with the bearings in the holders, or the slipper would not have any range of adjustment, since the slipper spring adjusts the compression on the slipper pads....

Mark W
(hobbyshop owner that works on lots of customers cars)
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Old 05-16-2012 | 04:07 PM
  #2166  
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Slippers definitely assembled correctly. Measuring the hubs with verniers, there was a definite difference in sizes between parts. With the thicker parts, the slipper was a super tight fit between the bearing holders.

Filing down the hibs back to 4.7mm has fixed it, I was just wondering if anyone else had come across this.

Ray

Originally Posted by RCHR
I just swapped mine in without any issues or modifications. I got my vented hubs when they first came out.

I would say something is not assembled correctly, check and make sure your bearings are in good shape, CVA's are in good shape, correct screws holding down the top slipper cover (screws not binding bearings), make sure the slipper spacers are on the correct way in the correct order, a lot of people put them on backwards.<---check that first....

There would need to be some very slight amount of tolerance with the bearings in the holders, or the slipper would not have any range of adjustment, since the slipper spring adjusts the compression on the slipper pads....

Mark W
(hobbyshop owner that works on lots of customers cars)
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Old 05-18-2012 | 04:45 PM
  #2167  
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Got my electronics all hooked up and bench tested. Can't wait to get it on the track tomorrow. Should I go around all the cf shock towers with some clear nail polish? I do it on my onroad chassis to help from splintering.
Attached Thumbnails B44.1 Thread-p1010315.jpg  
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Old 05-18-2012 | 05:06 PM
  #2168  
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Originally Posted by elex300
Got my electronics all hooked up and bench tested. Can't wait to get it on the track tomorrow. Should I go around all the cf shock towers with some clear nail polish? I do it on my onroad chassis to help from splintering.
Clear Superglue is very good for that
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Old 05-19-2012 | 11:03 AM
  #2169  
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Man its been a long time since I've been "in the know" with the B44.1 now I have questions
1. I heard people are putting Kyosho big bore shocks on their B44s. What size shocks are they using? Just the standard RB5 shocks? Are they really that much better than the new AE shocks? Do the rears only fit if you use the outer hole on the shock tower? I ask cause I bought my B44 used and the chassis was a bit messed up (screw holes twice the size than org.) so I converted it to a B44.1 just kept the old shocks and now I wanna upgrade.

2. I seen the new Jconcept wheels and they look amazing but my concern lies in the weight of them. I may be way off here but with the 2 pieces and it bolts together it just looks like it may weigh more than the AE wheels or the Jconcepts rulux wheel. If someone gets a set of the new Jconcepts wheel and can weigh it I'd be interested in knowing how much it weighs.
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Old 05-19-2012 | 11:40 AM
  #2170  
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I just converted my B44.1 to big bore springs. I used the Traxxas collars, Losi 22 bottom cups, eyelets, and springs.

Questions.

1: The front B44.1 cups are shorter than the rear. Will using the 22 bottom cups on the front of the 44.1 affect handling at all?

2: The 22 parts come with the bottom shock eyelets (The part that screws onto the shaft) and they fit perfectly onto the 44.1 shaft. For those of you using the Losi 22 bottom cups are you using the eyelets as well?

3: Has anyone tried Losi 22 white springs in the rear and orange in the front? (If not I'll let you know how it goes)

4: Are most people using the ballast weight or not?
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Old 05-19-2012 | 01:33 PM
  #2171  
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot
I just converted my B44.1 to big bore springs. I used the Traxxas collars, Losi 22 bottom cups, eyelets, and springs.

Questions.

1: The front B44.1 cups are shorter than the rear. Will using the 22 bottom cups on the front of the 44.1 affect handling at all?

2: The 22 parts come with the bottom shock eyelets (The part that screws onto the shaft) and they fit perfectly onto the 44.1 shaft. For those of you using the Losi 22 bottom cups are you using the eyelets as well?

3: Has anyone tried Losi 22 white springs in the rear and orange in the front? (If not I'll let you know how it goes)

4: Are most people using the ballast weight or not?
I run the same cups and collars you're running without any problems. I also run the associated bottom eyelets on all four shocks. I've been running Losi white or yellows in the rear and blue or greens in the front with great results. I also run the ballast weight. I hope this helps
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Old 05-19-2012 | 02:36 PM
  #2172  
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just ordered some yokomo big bores for my 44. been searching through this thread and couldn't find what i needed to know. does anyone know what i'll need to fit these? i've seen them on some b44's before so i know they'll fit but just curious if anyone knows exactly what i'll need to fit them...
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Old 05-19-2012 | 10:35 PM
  #2173  
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Originally Posted by nhraman
I run the same cups and collars you're running without any problems. I also run the associated bottom eyelets on all four shocks. I've been running Losi white or yellows in the rear and blue or greens in the front with great results. I also run the ballast weight. I hope this helps
Helps a lot. Thanks. Was not sure about the front springs. Some were telling me to run a similar set up to the b4.1 but I was not sure and a little skeptical.

Just took the car out for a test run up and down the street. So far so good. Car is planted, turning is precise, and when you drop it from about a foot off the ground, it just thumps and soaks it all up. Very happy so far. Will try it on the track tomorrow.
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Old 05-19-2012 | 10:43 PM
  #2174  
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Really surprised and disappointed with the Savox servo (1257). Noisy, Noisy, and did I say Noisy? I had to trim the front steering servo connector on the car to clear the servo (part 9743), , and now I find when I turn the servo to the left, the horn hits the body even with the radio trim down to 73 percent. I compared it to my Futaba BLS 451, and the Savox spline connector sticks out way further from the body of the servo. About 4mm more than the Futaba. Buyers beware.
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Old 05-20-2012 | 11:25 AM
  #2175  
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Can anyone tell me what springs i should get for the kyosho big bores like which set is usually dialed with the b44.1 on indoor and outdoor a good happy medium i guess you could say and which kyosho big bores do i need to order that bolt right up
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